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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so being my first post I think I may start out by saying hello and it was fun being a lurker around here for a bit. Unfortunately I'm now being thrust into being one of the problematic SLS owners who's stumped. All of the other stuff that has happened thusfar hasn't really been a major issue. This one has me perplexed, though. Here's the deal......

94 Seville SLS. I bought the car a few months ago and have put on about 2,000 miles. Nothing really outstanding or something that I didn't know was going to happen until a few days ago. I was driving along and the dashboard and radio "blinked". Strange, I thought. Must be a loose connection. Then it did it again twice the day after. The day after that it did it a few times. Uh oh. Something is getting worse I thought. Mind you, nothing affected other than the dash "blink". The car still ran normally and never stumbled. If I hadn't have looked down to see what mileage I was getting I'd have never known. The blink lasted *maybe* .5 seconds. Here's what happens after it does that...

In the cluster at the far left...
MPG average and instant resets to zero.
Range resets to zero.

Center cluster ( where the speedomoter goes)...
MPG average resets to zero
trip stays same
gallons used resets to zero
avg speed resets to zero
oil life remains unchanged as does trip mileage

A/C cluster on right....
"defaults" to 75 degrees and goes to auto.

I've noticed while driving the battery volts can range anywhere from 12.9 to 14.2. It stays pretty regular at 13.4 while driving though. Is that a normal range? I dunno.

So here's the kicker.... it's stopped doing it while driving or in park. NOW I can pretty much count on getting in the car and it's already done. All the above that I mentioned resets to zero unless otherwise specified. If I drive the car and stop at a store for 10 minutes, there's no loss. The morning after or maybe even an hour after shut-down, there's the loss again.

Any clues? Is there a master battery that retains information like in a desktop computer? Could it be dirty terminals? What about the battery itself being on it's way out? It starts normally and doesn't stumle at all, so I'm inclined to believe some sort of memory type battery or loose connection.

Well, there it is. I bow to you all if I could find the fix.
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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Before you do anything check the codes. Press and hold the OFF and warmer (red) buttons at the same time untill all of the LED displays light up. It will then start showing you the codes ending with "PCM?". If you need it to repeat the codes simply press the OFF button once when it says "PCM?". When you're done you can simply turn the key off to exit diagnostics mode. Post the code up here and someone will help you with them.

Secondly, do you smell coolant at all? or are you loosing coolant?

My first thought is your IPC is starting to fail... But it would be better to diagnose further than to jump to conclusions.
 

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I am actually very interested in the outcome here because my 98 is doing damn near the same thing. Alot more stuff goes bye bye on mine though. RSS, Traction, PCM, and the interior stuff. I also notice mine going down to 12.7 range on the volts.

This morning it went into the 4 cylinder limp home mode due to the MAT and other air sensors going screwy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok... no coolant loss or smell. I don't know what that would have to do with anything but there isn't any of that going on. When I bought the car I checked/filled everything and it hasn't moved since. There's a very very minor oil leak coming from one of the main seals but it isn't even worth mentioning for this post.

So anyways. I get in the car first thing this morning and without turning it fully on ( just key to accessory) I get this...

No PCM codes
I052 History
No ACP codes
No SIR codes
No TCS codes
PCM?

My memory is still intact from yesterday I notice. Ok, now I'll start the car and see what happens. Bingo, the things that reset beck to zero happen and I get this...

No PCM codes
I052 History
No ACP codes
No SIR codes
No TCS codes
PCM?

Wait. That's the same exact everything. I better drive it around the block. Not to mention, I *should* have a ride control code coming up somewhere ( The Ride positioning sensor on the driver front is broken. I know about it and it's in process as best I can. No worries there.) Off I drive...

I get the same above codes with something new.... Code S060 Current. Ta-daaaaaaa! I have no clue what it means but it's something different anyways. I'm both happy and sad because while it does prove I'm not losing my mind, there's something wrong in the system somewhere. What does a code S060 mean? I havn't the foggiest. Unless I'm told differently I'll have to play Occum's Razor on this one ( all things being equal, the simplest explanation is usually the correct one). Start at battery terminals and clean. Then replace battery, then etc etc etc. Sorry, it's the old car owner in me that wants to start like that as everything I own(ed) is/was old MoPar and American cars. ( read : no computer anything).

It doesn't run rough or go into limp mode. As stated before, if I don't look down I'd never know anything was going wrong or askew. What is the normal range for volts on these things anyways? Like JC316 says up there, it has gone down and back up. I'd assume normal fluctuation within a tolerance of +/- .6 volts from 13.5 would be normal as things charge and discharge. But then again this car is a totally whole new ballgame for me. It could mean that every wheel is about to fall off and I'd remain blissfully ignorrant of the situation,lol. Jeez, I hope that's not connected like that.

Anyways..... suggestions? Opinions? Comments? Bread recipe's? Anybody... Bueller? :)
 

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did this once... 86 Deville, 86 300E, 78 R100rs
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I'm gonna throw this out so everyone can balk at it...
Other than possible loose grounds, is it possible that the RF ride sensor is shorting to ground and affecting things? My ride is an old 89 and doesn't have such 'fancy' things....
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nothng to be balked at there at all. It's certainly acting like a loose/dirty connection of some sort. Then again if I had the true anser to all of this I'd be the one giving the answers around here. Instead I'm balled up in the fetal position crying for help on this one. Hey, this is how ya learn things I guess.

Anyways... some googling and I get this link http://en.allexperts.com/q/Cadillac-Repair-806/1994-Cadillac-Northstar-engine.htm

Basically the guy says the S060 is a left front Position Sensor fault. That confirms the sensor being broken ( which I cannot find in a boneyard anywhere by the way. I'm still searching, however). What it doesn't confirm is the issue I have going on with the memory loss. There doesn't seem to be a code for what's going on there that's popping up at this very moment. Will it ever? Who knows. It could range from simple to complex from what I'm reading. Nice car, but very complex if you don't understand the inner workings. Not a deal breaker for me. I see this as minor ( at this juncture) and not something that would have me cursing the day I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well... I started at the easiest point one could. I took off the cables and cleaned them with a baking soda and water solution. They were pretty yucky. Scrubbed 'em and re-set everything back into place and started the car again. The voltage stayed somewhere in the 13.9 to 14.2 range even with the lights and A/C on. I must be on the right track. I went to pull codes and basically what I got back was "you unplugged the battery, stupid!" so I guess it's all good there.

I'm gonna let it sit for an hour. Then take it on a half hour trip and come back home and wait, re-start again, pull codes, etc etc etc. If the problem doesn't persist, do you think that might have been it? Regardless of what happens in the end, a battery change is due up for this car. It looks pretty nasty and old anyways. Can't hurt to invest in a little peace of mind there I suppose, right?
 

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Yeah if it doesn't come back after cleaning the cables then it should be all good. The reason i asked if you were smelling coolant or loosing coolant is because I was wondering if your heater core was possibly leaking onto the PCM and ACP and whatever other electronics are over there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope. No coolant leaks into the pass. compartment that I know of.

Ok. I took it down to the store. A 15 mile round trip. I got some numbers on the range and mileage along with the trip, etc. I'll go out in about an hour or two and see if it repeats the process. One thing of note, however. When I initially went down to the store I was looking at an average of 13.9-14.2 in the battery voltage. On the return trip I noticed it was 13.6-13.9. Any clues what that might be? It may have spiked .1 higher or lower but I chalk that up to just being a spike, not the average or what it stayed on for more than a little while. Does anybody know for certain what these cars "live" at? It would be helpful in diagnosing if it holds any relevance as to wether or not a battery needs to be replaced for certain. I know Ranger up there said it should be in the 14's so that's why I ask. If I'm not drawing current out of the cell then perhaps it's just not there to be drawn ( I.E. imminent cell degredation and failure).

One last question.... wouldn't the alternator have kept the system from doing this in the first place? I know the alt. feeds the battery and the battery feeds the car, but still. It's not unusual to be able to unplug the battery from the system and have it all still run within tolerance. Are these cars *that* sensitive or by the book?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
okely doke. It's been a few hours and I just went out and started it up again. No memory or anything loss. I consider this matter closed and solved (crosses fingers). Still gonna get me a new battery though just because the 50-60 bucks it takes for a new one is cheap insurance anyways.

One last thing. How do I erase all of the old engine codes? I have 3 that signify unhooking of the battery ( P052, P109 and I052 ) and want to clear them out after the new battery install. Thanks.
 

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Yes you should be able to unhook the battery and still have the car run without a hitch; however, since the positive feed from the alternator goes directly to the bolt on the battery, unhooking the battery will result in a poor positive connection from the alternator to everything it's powering. That's why you're not supposed to do that on northstars.

The battery seems to be reading right where you want it to read, in between 13 and 14 volts.

To clear the codes go into diagnostics mode and when it says "PCM?" press the fan up button to go into that submenu. Then press the fan down button untill you reach "PCM CLEAR CODES?" and press the fan up button again. It should display "PCM CODES CLEAR" before taking you to the next option in the menu. Now press the OFF button once to go back to the module menu. If it's not displaying "IPC?" press the fan down button untill you reach "IPC?" then press the fan up button to enter that submenu. Then press the fan down button again untill you reach "IPC CLEAR CODES?" and press the fan up button to clear the codes. It should display "IPC CODES CLEAR" before returning you to the next option in that menu. At this point you can simply turn the key off to exit diagnostics mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
2nd day and it seems as though the issue is gone. I appreciate the assist on this one folks, I really do. Also, thanks for the info on resetting the codes. I'll be needing that come payday when I get the new battery installed. I'm just thankful I don't have to rip the dash apart on this one. This time I got lucky, I guess.

JC316.... did any of my dilemma help you out as well?

KRASHED989 ..... update that page-link in your sig. Now you got me wondering what happened with it all,lol. What can I say, I appreciate a good rebuild soap opera. Do you still have that donor car?
 

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KRASHED989 ..... update that page-link in your sig. Now you got me wondering what happened with it all,lol. What can I say, I appreciate a good rebuild soap opera. Do you still have that donor car?
LOL Yeah I still have it... Right now it's more-so being used as a shelf in the garage. Haha... I do need to get going on it, but my main project for this week is changing the CV halfshaft on my Eldo. And even with that I have to wait for the weather to permit me. There's gonna be some bad weather this week for me (ie. Hurricane Flossie). Then next week is when college starts back up for me so I'm gonna be busy with that too. I'll prolly just set aside Sundays or something for working on the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
then tell me this one thing if you will. Road position sensor on the driver front..... Is it a plunger type that's attached to the frame and connects to the lower control arm, or is it the lever type? I'm having a devil of a time trying to find a new one for my car. The guy at the boneyard keeps telling me that it's the lever type ( like on the pass. side front) but I'm standing my ground. I'm getting a little tired of driving the car with that front corner being pumped up but I have no choice at the moment. I know it's a silly thing to chase down but it's killing me.

You don't have to tell me how things become shelves. Half my cars are excellent flat surfaces for the old "I'll just put this here and get to it tomorrow" bit. :p
 

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I believe it is a lever type with a linkage arm from it to the control arm or somewhere near.
 

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The 94 sts that I have is a plunger type on all four corners. Looks like a mini-shock absorber.

If one of your sensors is a lever type than I would think that all four of them are the same. Either way, they both work in the same way. I'd imagine it wouldn't be too hard to do a conversion with the right tools. Might take a lot of math though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well, the one that is on the driver front is a plunger type. The one that's on the pass. front is the lever type. I know this much for certain. I just don't know why I can't track down one for myself is all. It's getting pretty annoying because it sends the track of the car all out or norm. How it got to be this way, I havn't a clue ( one side diff. I know how it broke). I had assumed it was because of some size limitation or some such. Hey, what I know about these cars is basically nothing. What I know about the previous owner doing something is even less.

If worse comes to worse, would ya wanna sell the RPS on your car? I sure can't ride around like this forver. Sooner or later something's gonna break I'd think.
 

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If worse comes to worse, would ya wanna sell the RPS on your car? I sure can't ride around like this forver. Sooner or later something's gonna break I'd think.
Sure... I'm not an authorized vendor on these forums so Pop me an email about it:
Krashed989 @ gmail.com (take out the spaces)
 
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