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94 SLS front struts???

730 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Krashed989
I have a 94 SLS that has alot of miles. The previous owner changed the front passenger side strut with a used junk yard unit due to blown strut (total leakage all over).

Here is the problem, It is electric and seams to work just like the other side (there are no codes) but at highway speeds the pass front comes up a little higher and does not settle down just like the drivers side does.

Is there an adjustment on that little rod thing in the wheel wheel that I might be able to adjust so it reacts "quicker" or is this old shock dead?

It really does run fine below 65 and only acts up when a large bump makes the car jump up. The car seams to corner well in both directions even at speed.

Thanks in advance.
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The front struts are not air ride, so they are not able to raise or lower on their own. Only the rears can go up and down on their own. The front struts have dampering valves that make them more stiff or more soft depending on the road conditions.

I would be willing to bet that the drivers side strut is bad and that is whats causing this. When you change struts, usually you change them both at the same time, and this is probably why.
I know they are not "ride height" adjustable but they are electronic. I think that the car adjusts the valving inside to "stiffn" or "float" the ride rebound.

There is a sensor that has a small rectangle box at the top with a rod (covered in rubber accordian boot) that attaches to the lower control arm that monitors the wheel travel. That sensor is what I am talking about.

Can you adjust it up or down on the top mount (hard mounted to the inner finder well) to make the cars computer think that there is more wheel travel to have the brain box stiffn the strut valving causing a more controlled ride?
I honestly don't know what adjusting the ride height sensor would do in the front. I doubt it will help your problem though because the electronic dampering valve only controls how hard it is to compress the strut, and doesn't change anything to do with the extension of it. Also, if that drivers side strut is bad, its not going to try to extend and its not going to give resistance when compressed, even if the dampering valve is working.
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