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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, my 94 Seville SLS has just had the starter replaced with a brand new one, and the fuel pump was replaced with a remanufactured one, as well as a new air and fuel filter, but will not start. The front four spark plugs have been changed as well, but not the back four, but the car isn't starting. The car has an optima red top battery, and the computer says the battery is reading at 11.9V when I try to start the car. The car whirs and acts like it wants to start, but doesn't turn over... I have pulled the codes from the computer and they read as follows:
Current:
A011 & T033

History:
P052, P109, I052, S020, S021, S022, S025, S026, S027, S028, S036, S044, S050, S060, S061, S063.

Please help me!!! Also, when I turn the key back to the off or on position, my accelerator clicks, and the gas pedal clicks along with it, whether I try to start the car or not...
 

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92 Eldorado 95 Cadillac SLS 99 Cadillac SLS 2004 SRX
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107 Posts
Well here's what the current codes mean as for the history Go to thi site:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html

Air Conditioning Programer (ACP) Codes
A011 .......................................... High Side Temperature Sensor Circuit

Traction Control System (TCS) Codes
T033 ........................................ RR Wheel Speed Sensor Continuity Fault

Someone will chime in and give you a solution.
 

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1996 Deville (sold), 2000 Mustang GT
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1,300 Posts
Check your fuel pressure regulator, there's a write up in the tech tips section withpictures, very cheap and easy. Also, I would change the back spark plugs too.
 

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96' Eldorado, 00' Volvo 770 N14+ 525HP
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The car has an optima red top battery, and the computer says the battery is reading at 11.9V when I try to start the car. The car whirs and acts like it wants to start, but doesn't turn over...
Sounds like you still have a cranking problem. Id charge up the battery over night then check your battery connections and make sure they are tight. Id also make sure your starter relay is working ok. If your connections are tight and the relay is good, you might have a bad battery(if questionable, have it load tested at autozone) or you may have a bad connection at the starter or possibly a bad starter out of the box.

She's gotta crank before fuel pressure becomes an issue.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Also, when I turn the key back to the off or on position, my accelerator clicks, and the gas pedal clicks along with it
Failing ISC (Idle Speed Control) motor. Try holding the throttle open just a tad while cranking. If the ISC motor has failed closed, the engine is not getting any air and will never start.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This car has a starter relay? I dont think it does... Are you referring to the starter solenoid? If so, then its not that because its a brand new starter. I will look into the idle speed control motor and replacing the spark plugs. I'm thinking that it may have something to do with my battery cables... What length of cables would I need to purchase for my car? Also, I know that there are two different cable connectors that go together to form the positive connector, so how would I go about purchasing cables to replace that?
 

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96' Eldorado, 00' Volvo 770 N14+ 525HP
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Do a search on replacing the "big 3" there is a thread on here on replacing the cables. That thread has pics in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Failing ISC (Idle Speed Control) motor. Try holding the throttle open just a tad while cranking. If the ISC motor has failed closed, the engine is not getting any air and will never start.
It cranks, and I just replaced the other 4 spark plugs, and still no start. I sprayed some starting fluid in the intake, and the car almost started, but when it was about to start, I heard a loud POP, like a backfire, but from the engine. The accelerator still clicks when I turn the key to the on position...
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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If it almost started when you sprayed starting fluid into the intake, then you have spark. Forget the coils. Do you have fuel pressure? What is it?

The accelerator still clicks when I turn the key to the on position...
Maybe the ISC motor has failed and the throttle plate is not opening, thus no intake air (like a closed choke). Try staring it with your foot holding the throttle open slightly.
 

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'93 STS (sold), now looking for a CTS Wagon soon!!
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503 Posts
If you are in california, you can swap coils with my spare coil pack.
 

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96' Eldorado, 00' Volvo 770 N14+ 525HP
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The car has an optima red top battery, and the computer says the battery is reading at 11.9V when I try to start the car. The car whirs and acts like it wants to start, but doesn't turn over...QUOTE]

I assumed you had a no crank problem still. I agree with Ranger, sounds like you have a bad fuel pump or a bad pump relay, or the throttle as he said. To check fuel pressure the quick way there is a schrader valve comming off of the fuel rail under the plastic cover. Should have a black cap on it like a tire valve stem, push it in and you should have fuel squirt out, if NOT then you need a fuel pump. Its a fairly easy pump to R&R, at least my eldo was.

If the fuel barely squirts out you will have to get a fuel pressure guage on it and post up the psi reading, flip key on, pump puts out pressure for 2 seconds after you key on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright, I will check to see if fuel squirts out today, and i will try to start it with my foot on the accelerator. Could the crank sensors be a problem with starting? Also, how would I be able to know if the fuel pump relay is working?
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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CKP sensors are possible, but not likely. They seem to cause intermittent problems.

Have someone turn the key on without cranking while you put an ear to the open fuel filler pipe. You should hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds if the relay is good. If you do not hear it, check the relay. Tap it with a screwdriver handle in case it got stuck or swap it out with a known good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, I will try listening to the fuel pump, as I've already looked into buying a new relay, which is $17.99 at Advance Auto Parts. As far as the crank sensors and the throttle position sensors, how many are there of each of those? I'm looking at buying those also, as I've found them on eBay, brand new for $9.99 for the crank sensors, and $11.99 for the throttle position sensors... Could the TPS or the CPS be the problem?
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Two CKP sensors and one TPS, but I'd diagnose this more before throwing parts at it to see which one sticks. That can get expensive.
 
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