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93 Deville
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to the forums, so please excuse me if this has been asked/answered before. I have searched for hours online and found no solution, although this site did come up most often as a result. Anyway..

My 93 Deville has gotten into the habit of draining the battery when it's sitting over a couple of days. I've replaced the battery twice, so I know it's not a bad battery. The alternator tests good when the car is running, puts out around 14.5 volts. I think it's the Anti-Theft system draining it. Reason is, when the car is off, and the doors shut, the 'Security' light will flash constantly. If I lock the doors using the power lock button, the light comes on and stays on, even when I shut the door. I put a digital DC ammeter around one of the positive battery cables and as the 'Security' light blinks, the reading goes up then down. When I lock the doors, the reading goes up and stays up. I didn't write down the exact amount of the draw, but it's was somewhere in the range of .5 amps with the flash and 4 amps with the light constantly lit.

I have not tried pulling fuses yet, because I know that the 'Security' light is supposed to go off, so I know it's malfunctioning, I just hope that's the whole problem and not a different one entirely.

Again, sorry if this has been asked before, but I'm at my wits end and really don't want to pay someone to fix this if I can fix it myself. Also, I hope this makes sense.
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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Reason is, when the car is off, and the doors shut, the 'Security' light will flash constantly. If I lock the doors using the power lock button, the light comes on and stays on, even when I shut the door.
That tells me you have a bad door jamb switch. I had the same problem years ago.
 

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2000 DHS
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4 amps is a seriously high power off current draw. That high of a draw sounds like a light staying on (not the security insicator). If a door switch is bad you should have interior lights on, do you? You may have a trunk light or glove box light on always due to a bad switch. years ago I had an MGB that had a corroded parking light socket that would drain the battery. Maybe you should put the current meter on and start pulling one fuse at a time to find the offending circuit then proceed accordingly.
 

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93 Deville
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Discussion Starter #5
I started pulling fuses and when I got to fuse 11 the drain dropped from .25 to .03 amps. Fuse 11 is for chime/cig ltr/radio/pwr ant. I disconnected the radio, same drain. No pwr antenna on the car. Nothing in cig lighter. So I'm thinking its the chime. With the fuse out the car cranks normally, but here is a faint dinging noise coming from the glovebox area. Any suggestions?
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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Your chime module is directly above the glovebox, and so is the keyless remote module. How about the interior lights? Are they staying on?
When you have a factory security system, there are wires going to each key lock, the door handle buttons, the door jamb switches, and there is a anti tamper switch on the trunk. Do you have a FSM as this would help tremendously with the wiring diagrams.
 

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1991 Cadillac Brougham D'Elegance 5.7 Litre, 1994 DeVille
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That sounds like a bad door switch. I think the alarm uses it's own wire so even if the switches turns the lights on and off a wire could be disconnected. Or shorted somewhere.
 

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93 Deville
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Discussion Starter #8
I do not have a manual. Any ideas as to where to start looking? The interior lights go off when the door is shut.
 

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1991 Cadillac Brougham D'Elegance 5.7 Litre, 1994 DeVille
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Check the back of the door swiches one by one to see if any of them have a disconnected wire. That's the easiest thing to check. If you've checked 2 of them and they both just have one wire going to them I'm wrong but for some reason I seem to remember there's one wire for the light and one for the alarm.
 

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93 Deville
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Discussion Starter #10
There is a blue wire and a white wire going to each. Do you remember which is for which?
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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You should have on the door lock cylinder switch a light blue wire, a light green wire and 2 black wires or pin terminals C and D for the black which is ground. The light blue is for the arm and tamper input to the theft deterent controller. The light green is the disarm input. Each of the door jamb switches have a light blue wire that is also in the same circuit as the door lock cylinder switches. In the harness between the LH front door jamb switch and the theft deterent controller is a diode. That switch is also the only one of the 9 switches for a sedan that has a tan wire instead of a light blue wire. There will be a total of seven switches if you have a coupe. Don't forget the trunk lid tamper switch has a light blue wire. This information from the FSM page 9D-40 Theft Deterent System.
 

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It seems doubtful a disconnected wire would cause a current drain unless it is shorting out. Typically, an open circuit draws no current at all and even if the sensor is normally closed, which I doubt, then you should be getting a security warning of some sort I would think. More likely is a wire with its insulation rubbed through near the door post of one of the doors.

Jim
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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bc102903,
Your door jamb switches are normally closed when you open a door. Also the tan wire from your LH front door jamb switch goes up to the chime module. My chime only works if my lights are on or if the key is in the ignition when the door is open. If your chime module turns off when you close the door, then I think you can rule out the front LH door jamb switch and or wire. If that's any consolation.
 

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If the switch contacts are normally closed when the door is open then a loose wire would be telling the computer that the door is always closed and therefore should not cause this problem.
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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I had a switch that was grounding out, which was telling the module the door was always open. That is what kept the light flashing on the dash with the door closed and on continuously when I used the remote to lock the door before I closed it.

So if you read the OP his problem is exactly the same as what I had years ago.
 

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That would make sense for a wire with rubbed through insulation allowing the conductors to get a path to chassis ground but a loose wire would only make sense if it was touching something at chassis ground potential. That was my point a broken or loose wire that is not shorted to anything draws no current at all.
 

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1996 Deville 4.6L NorthStar White Diamond/Neutral Shale
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You found a great place to ask !!! I agree with the door switch but also have to say i had the hood lite and trunk lite stay on before simalar draw and that was killing my battery like they said time to start pulling fuses or unpluging switch's ....
STeeLT0E
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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Exactly, it's not the wire or switch that is drawing the power, it is the light on the dash that is drawing power. I can go back later today and look at the schematic, will let you know fuse number and location if you haven't found the problem yet. I seem to remember there are more than two fuses, but that will dissable other functions.
 

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1991 Cadillac Brougham D'Elegance 5.7 Litre, 1994 DeVille
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Exactly, it's not the wire or switch that is drawing the power, it is the light on the dash that is drawing power. I can go back later today and look at the schematic, will let you know fuse number and location if you haven't found the problem yet. I seem to remember there are more than two fuses, but that will dissable other functions.
no it's not the wire or switch that draws power but it's acting like the security system thinks a door is open and the only way for that to be happening is if either the system is messed up and has problems or if one of the door wires is grounded and chances are it's the wire because the security system itself rarely has problems.
 
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