As mentioned, these early Rochester injectors are a weak point on these engines. Since you are blowing injector fuses, I see no reason to start blindly probing other areas. I wouldn't even bother going through the hassle of looking for leakers yet. Use the evidence you are given. Don't guess.
When the injectors fail, the injector coils create a short or open in the circuit. That's what the fuses are for, and most likely why they've expired in your case. Leaking injectors, a leaking FPR, nor a clogged CAT will blow fuses!
To check the coils, get a multimeter. You will be checking their resistance. Set the multimeter to "ohms" and probe the blade connectors on the injectors (you can also check the injectors at the harness connector near the distributor if you keep track of wire color). Polarity is of no concern here. You should find readings somewhere between 12 and 18 ohms. Anything with no resistance, or infinite resistance is a failure and will need replacement. Also check for proximity between injectors - for instance, if most injectors return 12 ohms, but one returns 18 ohms, suspect the 18 ohm injector even though it's technically in range.
When the injectors fail, the injector coils create a short or open in the circuit. That's what the fuses are for, and most likely why they've expired in your case. Leaking injectors, a leaking FPR, nor a clogged CAT will blow fuses!
To check the coils, get a multimeter. You will be checking their resistance. Set the multimeter to "ohms" and probe the blade connectors on the injectors (you can also check the injectors at the harness connector near the distributor if you keep track of wire color). Polarity is of no concern here. You should find readings somewhere between 12 and 18 ohms. Anything with no resistance, or infinite resistance is a failure and will need replacement. Also check for proximity between injectors - for instance, if most injectors return 12 ohms, but one returns 18 ohms, suspect the 18 ohm injector even though it's technically in range.
