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1985 Eldorado ASC convertible, HT4100
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Cool. To confirm, the relays receive both signal and high current? Been a while for me so I might be off base... but if someone hits the top switch up or down one of those relays in the trunk should click. If they don't it's a failed relay(s), the switch, or wiring. Odd that both relays would fail at the same time. So I'd check your switch if you haven't already.

You could also apply power direct to the relays and see if they click.

I had to pull one of my relays out. It got banged and broke the cover, causing a drain. See images here. It pulls off, note the fragile plastic clips. I fixed it with glue and it worked fine after. But I looked around to purchase a replacement relay when I thought it had failed and as I recall I couldn't find it anywhere.

IMG_2832 by scottcelder, on Flickr

IMG_2796 by scottcelder, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My NAPA guy thinks I could use a drill press and carefully drill out the rivet and then file\sand the contacts. May need to do that. Thanks for the help!
 

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1985 Eldorado ASC convertible, HT4100
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Roger that. So, there's a rivet on your relays? Mine are screwed into position with that pictured flap, and the metal relay cover was pinched on, not riveted.
If you're sure the switch is sending signal to the relays, you can probably repair them. And likely would have to. But definitely worthwhile to remove the relays and test them out of the car before breaking them apart and potentially ruining them.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Scotteldorado, I found out today the rivet holds the coil\ plunger mechanism to the plastic base. Took the metal cover off today but can't get my head wraped around how to test the relay. Will re-read the manual when my mind is fresh. Thanks again.
 

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1985 Eldorado ASC convertible, HT4100
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Hi, here’s the short version of testing relays:

Here’s the longer version with background:

I think you could probably do the test with a 9 volt battery, some alligator clips, and a ohmmeter. Test continuity across the high current connections, test clicking/magnetism across low current. I don’t think polarity matters for either.
First just check if it magnetizes. If it does, then check for continuity. If magnet/click but no continuity, the high current contacts might need cleaning. Try those things before drilling out rivets.
 
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