You picked the wrong project to start your repair experience. Replacing these motors on the Seville's are a real PITA. Having done three of them on my '83 Seville I can attest to that. You need to remove the window glass along with disassembling the mechanism for the glass inside the door panel before getting to the motor which is riveted to the housing and on and on... Readjusting the window is another thing that will just drive you nuts. I'm looking at your picture and it looks like the tape for the actuation process is screwed up. Can't remember exactly how mine looked, but yours doesn't look right. That might be your problem.

Question... How did you determine the motor was bad? Can you hear it run at all or is the window just not going up/down?

 

Thanks for getting back to me. I figured the motor would be bad becuase the window always falls to the down position and pressing the switch does nothing. I can pull it up and move it freely but theres no power behind it or anything of that sort. I guess this is the type of thing you deal with on a $700 car. Did I misdiagnose the issue?

 

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My opinion, which could be contradicted by someone on here more knowledgeable than I am, is you have two issues: One is the tape is bad: Two, No power to the motor as it is disconnected, OR the motor is bad, OR there is no power at the switch.

You have already determined the window is disconnected or the tape is bad by the simple fact of no resistance in moving the window up and down by hand. I think your best bet is to find a mechanically minded buddy to help you with this. Otherwise, look at the mechanism in the door to determine what happens when the window goes up and down, lift the window (or lower it) while studying where it is (or not) connected and how the attached parts should move in conjunction with it. If lifting/lowering the window glass moves the plastic guides up and down on the silver looking rods in there, opt for the tape being broken which is a bear to replace. If nothing happens when you raise/lower the window glass by hand the window glass is disconnected from the mechanism. There are ( I think) 3 screws that mount the glass to the frame mechanism. They could be missing or laying in the bottom of the door frame.

This is just an overview in diagnosing the problem, either way you will wind up removing the window glass and the mechanism to make the repairs, either tape or motor. Wish I could be more helpful, good luck!

 

Seems like the glass isn't attached to anything. That yellowish belt thing doesn't move when I'm moving the window, so now do I need to figure out how the glass is supposed to be attached? Thanks for your help

 

That "yellowish belt thing" is the tape drive from the motor to drive the window mechanism up and down. Hand lower the glass enough to see if the three screws going through the glass are there to hold it to the mechanism. Did you look at what I suggested while moving the glass?

 

if the three circled bolts are the three screws you're referring to, then yes they are attached to the glass. The glass moves up and down the silver rod/rail. So is the tape the problem? sorry, was having a bit of trouble understanding

 

OK now we are getting somewhere.... You have just analyzed your problem. Yes the glass is connected properly to the mechanism and it moves freely up and down the guides.

Now the solution... The tape is the problem as it is broken and will need replacement which means taking apart all that stuff to get to it and removing it from the door. While it is out, you should replace the motor as well as it is probably an original unit and you don't want to go through all this work again. Just make sure it is plugged in either way.

Can't very much help in describing all the steps you need to get it removed but if you look at each part and see how it is attached, loosening nuts and bolts and wiggle stuff around to find what else is holding it will guide you in getting it out. There are two nuts on the top of the door frame holding the silver rods in place as a starter, and there are a couple of rivets holding some other stuff. But first take the bolts that you circled out and remove the window glass CAREFULLY. The glass, as I remember it, is slotted and that is where you make the final adjustments to fit the door closing to the outside frame. Don't over tighten them, only about finger tight and one more half turn. Take your time, take pics if you want to, might help in putting it back together. The motor is riveted to the mount, but a new motor will have bolts/nuts to replace them. The new tape should have instructions on how to thread it. Not much more I can help you with not being there but if you are careful you can do it with a lot of patience, just stop and look at it and take your time. Did this on my Seville 3 yrs ago and memory is a little fuzzy but I hope it helps.

When you finish the job, post your experience which might help someone else doing the same job. Good Luck!

 

Wanted to give a

quick update as to where I'm at right now. I have the window out, but to take the door metal piece off, in pretty sure that I need to get all the wiring unplugged. the one thing that won't seem to unplug no matter what I do to it is the interior door lights ihave a picture of the plug Attached. have you encountered this issue?

 

Thanks! I'll update over the weekend

 

“I’m sixteen and have no repair experience... my 81 seville.” Wow, Iraymal, you’ve really thrown yourself into the fire. But you’ve clearly got the right attitude. The silver lining is that most things on your car can be fixed by a regular person,.. eventually. Scooter, you’re doing yeoman’s work — bravo.
Iraymal, if you don’t have one yet, I think you’ll need a multimeter pretty soon for checking voltage, amperage, continuity. I like this relatively cheap one; I got mine on eBay used for $20: Amazon.com: INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter: Automotive

Which repair manual do you have?

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

“I’m sixteen and have no repair experience... my 81 seville.” Wow, Iraymal, you’ve really thrown yourself into the fire. But you’ve clearly got the right attitude. The silver lining is that most things on your car can be fixed by a regular person,.. eventually. Scooter, you’re doing yeoman’s work — bravo.
Iraymal, if you don’t have one yet, I think you’ll need a multimeter pretty soon for checking voltage, amperage, continuity. I like this relatively cheap one; I got mine on eBay used for $20: Amazon.com: INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter: Automotive

Which repair manual do you have?

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Thank you for the help. I have the Haynes repair manual for toronado, Riviera, Seville, and eldorado.

 

If you are referring to the "red" and "white" door panel lights... no problem. They come out from the other side of the door panel from what you have pictured. Take a small screwdriver and pry off the plastic light lens frame carefully. They should pop out, then you can (if I rem correctly) remove the plastic clip from the back of the light housing. I think there are two prongs that attach the plastic wire clip to the light housing.

 

Supplementary information..... The Haynes manual has only minimal info regarding your vehicle, although in a pinch could provide something more detailed than the OEM manual. You might want to check out Item 313152302475 on Ebay. This is the Factory manual which will be more helpful if you intend to learn/work on your '81.

 

Just went ahead and bought the manual. A little bit of an update on the window, and I have to say I'm an idiot for this. When I was testing the switch, I didn't have the battery connected. Today I reconnected it and tested the switch again. The window tape does move and I can hear the sound of a motor. That said, when I had the window installed (I've since removed the glass), it did not move up or down the rail - just remained in the down position. Also as you said, although the tape is moving, it seems to be improperly installed or turning in a weird way. Any idea as to what the problem could be? Thank you

 

Scooter is right. Here’s the same manual, but for only $7 shipped. Buy it:
1981 CADILLAC SERVICE INFORMATION MANUAL | eBay

 

p.s. This is the other major official manual for your Seville, the “Fisher Body Manual.” The Fisher covers how to handle body and interior parts, like say, your door. This is cheapest at $11 shipped. Check out the image of the door diagram in the eBay listing:

 

1981 FISHER GM BODY SERVICE MANUAL PONTIAC OLDSMOBILE CHEVY BUICK CADILLAC | eBay

 

scottelderado Excellent research on the manuals. I missed them, did not look further on the listings. My bad.

 

Ha. I may be bad with cars, but I’m HOF with eBay...
I got an email alert for Iraymal’s post about the Haynes, but when I got here you’d already replied and made the same rec.

 

Ha. I may be bad with cars, but I’m HOF with eBay...
I got an email alert for Iraymal’s post about the Haynes, but when I got here you’d already replied and made the same rec.

Thank you both for the rec. Just bought it, should be here by August.

 

Ha. That's nothing. One time I connected the positive battery cable to the negative battery terminal, and the negative cable to the positive terminal. Car didn't start for some reason... (In my defense, it was night and the red cable was covered in dark grease.)
The FSM or Factory Service Manual is basically essential. You won't regret the purchase. The FSM covers engine, brakes, steering, suspension, etc. The 1985 version I have also includes all the electrical diagrams too. FSM helps you make the car go.
The Fisher Body Manual covers how things fit together like body panels, doors, seats. The Fisher helps you understand how the car is put together. And it dives deep into windows.

Both manuals are/were literally what the pros use.

Why two separate manuals? Dunno. But the Fisher is for several GM cars of that year (called "bodies," your Seville is a "K-body"; my Eldorado, a Buick Riviera, and an Olds Toronado are all "E-body", etc.), while the FSM is just for Cadillacs.
Sorry, I can't advise about the window problem. Mine have always worked, and you learn how to fix things when they stop working.

 

Why two separate manuals? Dunno. But the Fisher is for several GM cars of that year (called "bodies," your Seville is a "K-body"; my Eldorado, a Buick Riviera, and an Olds Toronado are all

scotteldorado....The reason for the two manuals is because the OEM repair manual is officially GM issue. Can be sold under license by Helms or others. The Fischer repair manual is under separate license to Fischer who purchased the rights to the body repair info. Ran into a GM engineer who explained it to me, I hope I got it right.

 

Hey Scooter, interesting stuff. I'd thought Fisher Body was bought by GM and they just kept the name for the division.

 

scottelderado... Right! I'm referring to the 1980's when the manuals were published. I think somewhere around 2004 or whatever there was a change in ownership and Fisher was absorbed. So many companies still retain the original name after consolidation which doesn't affect what was done in the past. Trying to keep things in context.

 

I don't know which shroud you're talking about, but very probably yes.

 

p.s. Iraymal check your "Conversations". There's a drop down at top right of page if you click on the big green "I" box. I sent you a private message.

 

Well....I found my issue. It's definitely not the regulator and it's definitely not the tape. Both are in good health and don't need to be replaced. Rather, the white plastic piece that has a little tooth that slides into the tape must've had the tooth crack off awhile ago. Where can I find the white plastic part to buy a replacement?

 

Well....I found my issue. It's definitely not the regulator and it's definitely not the tape. Both are in good health and don't need to be replaced. Rather, the white plastic piece that has a little tooth that slides into the tape must've had the tooth crack off awhile ago. Where can I find the white plastic part to buy a replacement?

Not knowing what the white plastic piece is, or where it is, I can't help you. I suggest you look on Youtube at the 1989 Buick LeSabre... Replace Power Window Motor Tape video. Pay attention at 8 minutes into the video and watch through 13:24. This shows the top if the window rail where the "carrier" attaches to the tape end, that is the only part I remember having a tooth as a retainer for the tape. Also look at the tape you have, especially looking for elongation of the tape holes, grease, cracks or any indication that the tape has become brittle. You have done a lot of work getting to this point and I would replace a 39 yr old plastic part just to be on the safe side. Your call.

Remember, we are here trying to help you through this but you have to be more specific and post pics so we know what you are looking at in order to actually "see" what you are working on. Help us to help you.

 

I can’t help you, but can you post an image of the broken part? Might help Scooter and others.
I suspect you’ll have to head to eBay. But dunno. Maybe you can find a new one or jerry rig the one you’ve got.

Actually sounds like progress. Bravo.

 

I can’t help you, but can you post an image of the broken part? Might help Scooter and others.
I suspect you’ll have to head to eBay. But dunno. Maybe you can find a new one or jerry rig the one you’ve got.

Actually sounds like progress. Bravo.

I can’t help you, but can you post an image of the broken part? Might help Scooter and others.
I suspect you’ll have to head to eBay. But dunno. Maybe you can find a new one or jerry rig the one you’ve got.

Actually sounds like progress. Bravo.

Not knowing what the white plastic piece is, or where it is, I can't help you. I suggest you look on Youtube at the 1989 Buick LeSabre... Replace Power Window Motor Tape video. Pay attention at 8 minutes into the video and watch through 13:24. This shows the top if the window rail where the "carrier" attaches to the tape end, that is the only part I remember having a tooth as a retainer for the tape. Also look at the tape you have, especially looking for elongation of the tape holes, grease, cracks or any indication that the tape has become brittle. You have done a lot of work getting to this point and I would replace a 39 yr old plastic part just to be on the safe side. Your call.

Remember, we are here trying to help you through this but you have to be more specific and post pics so we know what you are looking at in order to actually "see" what you are working on. Help us to help you.

I'll upload the pic and watch the video when I get home tonight. Should be in a couple hours or so. Thanks for all the help thus far.

 

 

I'll upload the pic and watch the video when I get home tonight. Should be in a couple hours or so. Thanks for all the help thus far.

Attached the photos. I think that once I've received both manuals, things should become quite a bit easier for me.