'79 SDV - removing speedometer cluster to access cable

543 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by silverfox103, 10 d ago

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · 14 d ago

2

Hi all - apologies if this is a well worn subject, but I am struggling to find the info that I need. I have the perennial squeaky speedo issue and need to remove the cluster in order to clean and oil the inner cable. My Haynes workshop manual is pretty useless in this respect as it's covering too many DeVille generations and I can't seem to find the definitive sequence for removal on this forum.
I have pasted a couple of pics below denoting the more obvious fixings which I presume may need removing – I have also (crudely!) labelled other parts which I guess will need to come off, as I thought it might help someone explain the sequence. (don’t be distracted by the electrical add-ons, I know what they all do and how they disconnect!)
If any kind soul could help me out, I would be most grateful

Brown Motor vehicle Steering wheel Steering part Vehicle door

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1 - 16 of 16 Posts

silverfox103

· #2 · 13 d ago

Andy, found this on YouTube.

It shows spraying a speedo lube down the cable from the speedo unit. Could you do the opposite of spraying it up the cable from the transmission?

Tom

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #3 · 13 d ago

silverfox103 said:
Andy, found this on YouTube.

It shows spraying a speedo lube down the cable from the speedo unit. Could you do the opposite of spraying it up the cable from the transmission?

Tom

It might be worth a go Tom and thanks for the idea. The benefit of taking the cluster off I understand is that you can draw the cable out completely, clean it and lube it etc. I’m going to try and take it apart later anyway - I’ll report back! 😁

Reactions: 1

EricVonHa

· #4 · 13 d ago

Hi Andy, that's a lot of launch control activation buttons and signals in that column area!

1978_Coupe

· #5 · 12 d ago

You'll need to remove the AC outlet on the left side of the bezel trim. But to do that first, you have to remove the lil black knob on the lever that closes and open the vent. It's a lil small Allen screw. Then remove the AC grille, then in the upper right corner of that, there's another screw and the bezel comes off, after you have already removed the other screws you outlined.
I wanna say, you have to remove a screw that goes up into the dash (right where the speedometer gauge face is)

Reactions: 1

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #6 · 12 d ago

EricVonHa said:
Hi Andy, that's a lot of launch control activation buttons and signals in that column area!

Yup - it's been subject to a lot of add-ons over the years!

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #7 · 12 d ago

1978_Coupe said:
You'll need to remove the AC outlet on the left side of the bezel trim. But to do that first, you have to remove the lil black knob on the lever that closes and open the vent. It's a lil small Allen screw. Then remove the AC grille, then in the upper right corner of that, there's another screw and the bezel comes off, after you have already removed the other screws you outlined.
I wanna say, you have to remove a screw that goes up into the dash (right where the speedometer gauge face is)

Excellent '78 - thanks for the advice

Reactions: 1

EricVonHa

· #8 · 12 d ago

AndyC79 said:
Yup - it's been subject to a lot of add-ons over the years!

What does all of that do? Electric fan? Brake light kill-switch? Alarm?

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #9 · 12 d ago

EricVonHa said:
What does all of that do? Electric fan? Brake light kill-switch? Alarm?

The switches above the parking brake are for windscreen washers and a solenoid valve in the heater circuit (the latter installed by me as the heater control panel is FUBAR and flooded the cabin with hot air constantly). The small silver button is the starter, the gauges are self explanatory but I haven’t yet determined what the red button does!

backwoodsman

· #10 · 12 d ago

AndyC79 said:
I haven’t yet determined what the red button does!

Be careful. It may be an ejection seat.

EricVonHa

· #11 · 12 d ago

AndyC79 said:
The switches above the parking brake are for windscreen washers and a solenoid valve in the heater circuit (the latter installed by me as the heater control panel is FUBAR and flooded the cabin with hot air constantly). The small silver button is the starter, the gauges are self explanatory but I haven’t yet determined what the red button does!

Very nice! Thanks for the heads up..

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #12 · 12 d ago

backwoodsman said:
Be careful. It may be an ejection seat.

True!! 😳😁

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #13 · 11 d ago

Success!! - dash and cable removed, cleaned and greased - no more irritating chirping noises 😁

silverfox103

· #14 · 10 d ago

That's great Andy! All of us joined here because we needed help. Now, you now how to do the task. Sometime someone will need this answer and you will be able to tell them how to do it.

A+ for Andy.

Tom

AndyC79

Discussion Starter · #15 · 10 d ago

silverfox103 said:
That's great Andy! All of us joined here because we needed help. Now, you now how to do the task. Sometime someone will need this answer and you will be able to tell them how to do it.

A+ for Andy.

Tom

Thanks Tom - next job, rear door cards off to try and improve the rather sluggish windows and central locking.

silverfox103

· #16 · 10 d ago

AndyC79 said:
Thanks Tom - next job, rear door cards off to try and improve the rather sluggish windows and central locking.

Andy, assuming your door window mechanism is similar to my 96 FW's, I would try greasing the rails with white grease. On mine, there are plastic sliders that slide in the rails. They are notorious for breaking and when they do break the window goes up tilted. I hope the grease cures your problem and it may. But, your car is 45 years old, and if they are the original motors, they're probably getting near the end of there "shelf life".

Take your time in removing the door panels.

Tom

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