[350CID]

Time ago I replaced Idler arm, tie rods and center link. Hope you understand what I mean. Have these words from RockAuto.
Cadillac is about two feet high on four stands.
At first I turned steering wheel to lock position. Put smal laserpointer with two cable ties on both sides front wheel bolts.
Then I marked the laserpoint direct under brake disc on the floor and in front of disc, aprox. 4 feet, with a smal edding.
After replacing all I turned tie rod adj. sleeve to reach my edding points, I made on the floor.
If wheels where right adjusted before, I think it`s possible to reach next tire shop without any problems.

My G20 axle/suspension change with engine installed.

 

[the APEMAN]

Very creative!

One can replace idler arm and center link on this car line without disturbing alignment.

The tie rods of course will change the toe. I used to carefully count the threads (required turns) to separate the pieces and reassemble new pieces with the same exact turns.

One can actually see toe by sighting the tire edges and using the rear tire edges as a guide.

I've set toe that way many times without any trouble.

Your method may work but I would have projected the laser pointer on a target directly in front of the vehicle for more accuracy.

 

[kc5mhb]

Not bad, I would have just dropped the whole assembly and just measured each component's distance from the adjustment sleeves and the full distance from end to end of the tie rods. It will be very close and remember to face the adjustment sleeves opening towards the rear of the car if possible or you may end up with whistling noises from the air hitting the opening. I've heard of that happening on older cars before. You can also measure inside of the tire on one side to the other side both front and back of the tire to get it close as well. I did my 65 Mustang that way but it still needs to go to the front end shop for an alignment because I rebuilt the entire front end so the caster/camber is definitely out.