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fusing down is seldom a issue, i suggest a inline resettable circuit breaker?
 
not a great idea... fusible link insulation wont melt and short out and cause a fire...
 
…can I "SAFELY' stick an inline 15 amp fuse in place of the 20 gage fuse link…
You could but it may trip unnecessarily. You see, a fusible link will only "blow" when it's overloaded for too long. It's designed to remain intact during brief hi-amp current surges such as when the AC is first turned on with full fan speed while the headlights are on.
 
Discussion starter · #72 ·
I mentioned to the mechanic that I was getting serious ping on wot. At the time I had vacuum advance hooked to the ported spot on the front. He told me to just unhook it because gas these days doesn't do well in these engines. That did quiet it down some but there's still a rattle now and then. So, my thoughts are, attach the advance to manifold vacuum ( to help with cold start idle), then retard distributor timing a degree or two to help with the ping. Thoughts? I know carbon in the cylinders and I have been doing my best to clear that out.
 
Folks;
We plugged the choke pull off vacuum on my 472 thirty years ago (see blue cap).
We left the vacuum advance connected and there has been no issues as this massive engine has tons of get-up-and-go.
My cold idle has never been an issue as we adjusted this when the Q-Jet was rebuilt at the same time.
My engine has 164,000 miles and runs like a clock. We also threw on stainless duals from the headers minus the resonators. She blasts and is very fast for her tonnage.

King
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Folks;
GPSl-When cold I only floor the gas pedal quickly and take my foot off the gas pedal. This sets the choke. Then I hit the ignition and it starts almost immediately. I let her idle for about 10 seconds as I get the music machine cranked and off I go, The choke and fast idle calm down on the first touch of the gas pedal...no prob.
When warm I usually crank the starter for up to maybe 3 seconds with or without stepping very lightly on the gas pedal.
I 've owned 14 Cadillacs with various engines. 3 were 472's and they are by far my favorite engines to maintain and blast along the freeway.
The 472's were in my 69 SDV, 69 Eldorado and my current 1970 .The 69 Eldorado was the fastest. It as like a 747 taking off at SeaTac, scaring my passengers.
There's neighbor/contractor trying to flog his 1971 Eldorado conv. He whines and whines about his 4 hungry kids and largesse wife who are living in poverty(total BS). They want him to sell it, as it is in storage and he can't figure out the convertible mechanism...motors?
Very tempting with the 500 engine, but they were de-tuned from 1970?
I've now got 3 thirsty Cadillacs alive and well in my stable, do I need a fourth?

KIng
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He told me to just unhook it because gas these days doesn't do well in these engines.
I always cringe when I hear things like this. The mechanic doesn't know what he's talking about and doesn't want to work on your car.

Detonation (pining) at WOT is consistent with low octane gas, timing too advanced, or both.
Set your timing to the service manual spec. (5° BTDC) at 550 RPM.
Use the table in the 1969 service manual to confirm centrifugal and vacuum advance operations are within spec.
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Your car likely has factory AC which means you should have a thermal vacuum switch which switches the vacuum source to the distributor between ported and manifold depending on coolant temperature. Here's a description of some of the extra stuff AC cars come with:
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This stuff mainly affects engine performance and combustion chamber environment at idle.
At idle, the air/fuel ratio is less than ideal because exhaust gasses are not fully expelled at low RPM making the mixture richer. Hence there are more unburned hydrocarbons during idle. Setting initial timing low causes the engine to operate at a higher temperature which is desired to help reduce unburned hydrocarbons as well as carbon deposits. If the temperature gets too high, the thermal switch changes dist. vac. adv. source from ported to manifold.

If your engine is still in its factory configuration (e.g., same intake, same carb, same ignition, all emission equipment present and working, etc.) do a tune up with the factory recommended heat-range spark plugs. Use an emery cloth to dull any sharp edges on the negative electrode which may contribute to pre-ignition detonation. Fill tank with high octane gas then do a week's worth of test driving.

Let us know your findings.
 
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