Next up, that flippity flappity door that allows blower air into the cab. I know the actuator is bad but the only way I can think of to change it out is to remove the heater core and housing and flip it over, or, hire a 6 year with basic wrench skills to crawl under there.

 

Swapped out the starter today cause it was going. Having looked at a pic of an original starter, then comparing that to the ac delco reman that I just swapped out for a duralast, the size difference is impressive.

 

Did the starter have the rear L bracket to the block?

 

The old one did.

 

It looks like this:

 

There was a similar one attached to the old starter. The new starter is much smaller so it doesn't come close to the bolt hole.

 

I had a 69 FW Brougham back in the 80s, That thing would eat starters. Rebuilts would last the almost til the 90 day warranty was up. Now that I have years more experience new battery cables probably would have helped. After a hot soak it wouldn't spin over unless you gave the accelerator pedal a couple pumps to create a small flood condition, timing was right on

 

Thanks. Now I'm going to think about that!!!

 

So the new starter is one of those gear reduction modern types?

 

It looks just like a regular starter, just smaller.
Duralast Gold 3631N-PG

 

You should still be able to use the bracket from the old starter.

 

The new starter is about two inches shorter than the old one and the bracket does not come close to the original bolt hole. Their is another hole it does line up with but I need to locate a bolt for it and drill out the bracket.

 

The high torque rare earth magnet starters are really good. They will work when hot.

 

+1 on modern materials.

After seeing eye opening reliability increases in durability in fleet service I retrofitted one of these to my 500 C.I. back in 2016.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Took a bit to get the heavy wiring where I could trust it.

Alas I only got a few years out of it before the flywheel teeth became a problem.

The one you used looks like direct drive and possibly large enough to be an actual replacement. Is this correct?

 

And the link is only to provide the information. Always give Rock Auto first shot when possible....

 

Too hot today to do anything strenuous so I thought I would fiddle with the antenna that the previous owner said didn't work. Apparently they couldn't get it to go down so they snipped it off, ruining the mast. After watching a caddy daddy video, I went to town. Got it apart, cleaned it all up and it works fine......except the mast is destroyed.

Not that I'm a big fan of accuracy in anything, but I do like to see if it's fixable before I throw it across the garage

 

you can buy replacement antennas that are powered, a bit of a pita to change but doable of a diy person, suck it up its only 93 with 30% humidity in Vancouver...its 88 here with 56% in everett. my afternoon consisted of doing NOTHING at all .......

 

56% is a bit high. I'm sweating just thinking about it

 

Old Air Products sure does love their shipping costs

 

Fiddle farting around with things under the dash while waiting for parts. The radio comes on but that's about it. So, I'm reading through the diagnosis chart in the manual and part of the procedure, if one thing doesn't work is to "bump radio with heal of hand". It took me a few minutes to stop laughing

 

I took the blend door assembly off because I needed the heater box off to replace the "purge door vacuum power unit", the one that closes the door so the blower air will go into the cab instead of the great outdoors. As I took the top two screws off and pulled it away from the firewall, an odd looking metal plate came down. What I can't figure out is, was it actually attached to the top of the box or did it just let loose from the bottom. What I'm wanting, because google is so helpful, is where and how this goes back on.

 

Fixed it.......and, fixed the door so now I get air inside the cab.

 

Before I go shopping and waiting for one to show up, can I "SAFELY' stick an inline 15 amp fuse in place of the 20 gage fuse link coming off the generator to the voltage regulator?

 

…can I "SAFELY' stick an inline 15 amp fuse in place of the 20 gage fuse link…

You could but it may trip unnecessarily. You see, a fusible link will only "blow" when it's overloaded for too long. It's designed to remain intact during brief hi-amp current surges such as when the AC is first turned on with full fan speed while the headlights are on.

 

fusing down is seldom a issue, i suggest a inline resettable circuit breaker?

 

I happen to have had an inline fuse holder handy........

That being said, A fusible link is showing up in the mail tomorrow. On a further note, I could have just slapped a piece of speaker wire in it's place thought the insulation isn't as heavy.

 

not a great idea... fusible link insulation wont melt and short out and cause a fire...

 

well yeah but you don't know how good an engineer I am. I'd shove it inside a piece of vacuum hose. I'm a big fan of "i got this on hand, let's use it"

 

I went ahead and put one in. Next up, the AC. Or maybe the seat. Or.......l.