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Discussion Starter #1
Nope not the normal question :)

This is old news to me... but figured I would tell you guys :)

ok, so first the '68 472 manifold got opened up, hell I was there as it was getting done (family friends shop)

This intake manifold has a passenger for warm air to heat the carb, so that was left.

there is NO EGR on this manifold... so now my '79 DeVille is EGR-less...oh well.

I bought a spare Q-Jet from a 425 a while back on ebay, and the rebuild kit, the carb is getting rebuilt and put on, in this picture, the origanal carb is just sitting there to keep the manifold covered up.

Since that was all off, I figured i would pull the valve covers and paint them, since they were rusty, and I already had the valve cover gaskets.

Now this was 2 nights before I left for Tampa... so I didn't get many pics, and we didn't finish it, it is still in my fathers shop waiting for the carb to be rebuilt then put back on, he'll be doing that.

The rocker arms/top of heads are pretty sludgy... it wasn't pretty... not the worst I have seen, but the worst of my 3 cars... definitly not something good, but ah well. The underside of the valve covers were just as nasty, but I used the parts cleaner machine and cleaned them up real nice.

So it has the factory valve covers, painted, the '68 472 intake manifold, modiied and painted, the 1" carb spacer I bought dosn't ine up so it'll get returned and my father is going to stack gaskets to get a 1" rise out of the carb for the same effect. The rebuilt carb will be going on then. I also have a new breather filter (not in at this picture) and it looks pretty good. I also hit the oil dip stick handle with paint too :)

There was no Cadillac Blue (Royal Blue) so I got the closest thing... Ford Deep Blue... close enough, its a nice match.

I have not heard it run, felt the power difference or anything yet, as it still isn't running... the next time I plan on going to NY is over my Spring break... for the 5 days I am up there, it'll be my car to get me around.... after those 5days I am hitting the highway and the '79 is coming down here to FL...gosh I miss it and wish I could get it sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah yes thats another thing....

first, there would have to be some mods to run the engine without AC compressor, stuff is in the way of the belt...

and no way, this car without AC (even if it isn't working) is not happening....

My compressor is going on.. well, mine had a leak (main o-ring) my father said he just found another compressor that should be good... so hopefully he'll pu that back in, pull a vaccum and hit it up with some R-134A andI'll have AC for the first time in this car! :)
 

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Those compressors are cheap enough these days. They fooled around with pulley diameters so you may land up swapping belt sizes if you get a different one. R-134A will not make you a happy camper in this car in Florida. Get some R-12 off Ebay and it will work much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My father is very good at converting the systems... the key is to really pulll a vaccum, and usually replace the accumulator (I don't plan on ding that)

We converted the Olds..... and considering the fact that the AC didn't work when I bought the car... it worked great, not the best, but definity better then nothing.

I priced out a new compressor, it was $170.... GM used those things for ever, so I probably could get it cheaper.
 

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Look under some more rocks. Those compressors go for about 100 bux these days. Pulling a vacuum is a necessity whenever the system has been open, not just an option to make the thing work well. You will not have the same BTU removal capability with R134A unless the condensor is changed to a crossflow type. The simple conversions work marginally well.
The new compressor will work fine with R134A as long as the proper amount of compatible refrigerant oil is added.
 

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1976 Eldorado project
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Ape,

Don't mean to highjack Ricks thread or anything, but you seem pretty knowledgable in the A/C area, so I was wondering.

I disconnected the condensor and compressor and all for the stripping/painting of the engine bay. I sealed everything going into the system and all because I heard that when water gets in it's a real PITA to get it out.

Anyways, what is it about this vacuum? Basically, what all do I need to do when I put it back together and re-charge it? Would I just be better off taking it to some shop or something?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well, if that compressor works, then we'll use it, otherwise I'll just end up getting a new one... I prefer windows down over AC, so it really isn't that big of a deal if the system is working 100% or not.

the vaccum is needed to get any and all moisture out of the system, among other things. If you do not have a vaccum pump take it to a shop, some will not want to do it, since they'll want the full price to recharge it and stuff, then you can add your R134A in, use the same weight as R12 that is calls for.

Reason why I mentioned it before... I have heard that some shops that advertise the "recharge your AC for $49.99" or something, sometimes don't pull the vaccum... just to get them in and out quick.
 

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Well if I could get ahold of a vacuum pump I could do that myself. Is there any way that I can re-charge the system myself?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah, once the vaccum is pull you just took the cans up to the line as you normally would... it would be good to get a gauge so you know how much is in though.
 

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Alright. Only thing though is that I wonder if this thing has been converted for 134 or is still one 112 or whatver....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I talked to my father, he ot the car put back together.

the 1" carb spacer I bought didn't fit, so he made up a carb riser using gaskets, brings it up about an inch, so good deal.

So the work done was a modified 1968 472 intake manifold, the car no longer has EGR. the spare 425 Q-jet i bought was completly rebuilt and my father kinda made it a little more performance orientated :)...he can rebuild these things sleeping, and finally the carb was raised up an inch, to increase fuel/air volume within the intake, I have heard good things about carburator spacers.

He said revving the engine in park, it is alot more responsive now.... as if it wants to increase in RPM.

he too it out for a spin... said it feels more peppy, he came to a stop, and hit it, said the bog that it seemed to always have is now gone, and that "it easily will spin the tires from a stop" <---- that says something because it had to be a GOOD day to really spin the tires (tire) from a stop, otherwise just a little chirp.... those 2.28 gears aren't exactly a performance ratio :)

So I'll be back to driving it in a month, I'll be interested to see the differecnce, even though it will have been awhile since i drove it, I think I'll be able to tell.... plus there is always the dragstrip :) 17.5 @78mph before, we'll see after.

so, so far it sounds like the modified 472 intake manifold swap on a 425 is a big success! and the rebuilt car I would reccomend to anyone using the origanal, non-rebuilt 27 year old carb :)
 

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1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
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Cool. When you run it at a strip again, try to get the weather condition similar to what you had before. I picked up 4 tenths going from 9000+ft. density altitude to 7300... If I'd run some seafoam through there and not accounted for the weather I'd be a big seafoam fan, if you know what I'm saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yup, I know what you mean....

...but similar weather will be tough, I raced at LVD up in NY, the next time i race will be someplace in FL.... I think Gainesville has a test and tune 1/4 mile track.

LVD was 1,100ft elevation, 75* or so, kind of a typical day....
 
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