[Billfrombyron]

Decided to update the hydraulics a bit and did a full -4 AN set up, from master to slave. The benifit being no lost force through rubber line expansion, similar to braided steel brake lines. The system will transfer over to a new master or slave whenever future maintenance is required.

I'll be doing a diy write up later on, right now it's going back together tomorrow morning.

I rebuilt the ACT twin I had installed some time back, and went with a new centric branded V1 slave as the bearing had died and was ratcheting.

I'm still quite happily running the OEM centric master replacement.

I'll be adding in a -4 AN to 1/8 npt Tee fitting for future 2 step or similar additions later on.

-Byron

 

[Billfrombyron]

A little setback today with the hydraulic disconnect.

It needs to be bigger to flow and allow return.

I'm going with a direct connection, 6" from the bell housing to allow easier maintenance later, and gives a good location for the T fitting when it arrives.

-Byron

 

[Billfrombyron]

She is up and running.

Got a bunch of air out of the system, and this afternoon I'll flush a half L of fluid through it and it should be good.

Pedal feel is very direct and linear. Pedal engagement is a little low, but rising as I break in the clutch.

Pedal effort is sharply reduced. It should have come this way from the factory. It's also very quick to change gears.

-Byron

 

[Billfrombyron]

M10 to -4 AN adapter for the master cylinder and a -4 AN to 1/4" for the slave connection.

A 24" length of -4 AN braided hose and a 6" length.

A -4 to -4 union to allow removal of the trans for future maintenance.

That's pretty much it. Install the adapter, run the lines and bleed it.

-Byron

 

[Billfrombyron]

Well.........

Here we go again. Now adding all of the above plus a billet support bearing from Tick.

I've owned the car for 4 years and some change. The bearing fell off. This is not something normal, and I'm sure it's related to the 129f ambient temps I enjoy during the summer here in the middle east. I've done one a year since I bought the car, minus the tilton bearing. It doesn't matter which brand I choose, so I still recommend centric which is identical in every way to the OEM V1slave.

For those who are curious there are 3 makers. Monster (green but identical to tick), Tick and Quarter master who are bastards and geo block the middle east.

The difference is Tick and monster are aluminum and quarter master is steel. Will it make a difference? Heck if I know. But I went tick due to being able to actually order one.

I am replacing the master and slave this go round, 45k miles after this write up and 80k on my master.

Car now sits at 169k miles ish.

I'll take better pics this go round. None of my lines will be replaced, nor my fittings. Master is probably ok, but I want a full clean slate.

I am also planning on testing a V2 master later on down the road. If I can actually find one available to purchase.

Let's hope the billet bearing actually holds onto the bearing for more than a year. I will update if I replace it again.

-Byron

 

[Billfrombyron]

Some additional pics of my setup.

-Byron