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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I'm trying to work on my Girlfriends 92 El Dorado. It has been having drivability issues for the last week. Long story short it died today and it will no longer start. It appears as though no spark is coming out.

There are no ECM codes that I know of. Spark jump test failed, which I'm not sure you can do on this car.

My main question right now is, should there be a constant voltage to the distributor? On my check of the 5 wires going to the distributor, I see no voltage on any of the 5. Perhaps I am not checking it the correct way. I only have a Chiltons which has not been helpful.

I also checked the coil harness and there was no voltage on cranking. If I read correctly, voltage should pass to the coil when the *thing* hit's the hall sensor??

It seems to me though that no voltage can pass through, if no voltage is GOING to the distributor in the first place.

Please help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes the battery is new and strong.. and because of the the crank is VERY strong... and we just filled the gas so that's not it...

there is no spark coming out of the wires AND I can find no evidence of any voltage going to the distributor. This is why I am curious about whether or not there should be a constant voltage to it. If so, what might cause no voltage at the harness?? I found no bad fuses.
 

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01 frontier , 89 Shelby CSX vnt
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my 94 has the hei system

just filled the tank eh? did it run fine before ?

could be as simple as the rotor and cap are wore completely out , or the carbon button and spring on the bottom of the hei coil that provides the connection to the rotor is gone/wore out/ or corroded

justa coupla ideas , i know ive seen a few cars die not to far from the gas station after a fill up
 

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OK, I finally checked the schematic. You have a standard HEI system. Piece of cake. If you aren't getting any power to any wires at the distributor, that's probably the problem. The Dark Blue wire (at least according to the schematic) is the Battery feed for the coil. It is fed from the engine compartment fuse block, fuse A13 (20A). It's hot with key "ON".
Hopefully this helps.
 

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1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
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Double check that you don't have voltage coming into the distributor if you haven't already, it's tricky to get a good measurement sometimes, or in my experiances anyway. I had a problem like that, no spark, and I measured no voltage coming in to the distributor, but it turned out it was, and the ignition control module died - they like to die in the heat, so if it was a hot day it might end up being that. But yeah if you're positive there's no voltage coming into the distributor, it may be a cut somewhere in a line.
 

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toyotarob said:
Hi,

I'm trying to work on my Girlfriends 92 El Dorado. It has been having drivability issues for the last week. Long story short it died today and it will no longer start. It appears as though no spark is coming out.

There are no ECM codes that I know of. Spark jump test failed, which I'm not sure you can do on this car.

My main question right now is, should there be a constant voltage to the distributor? On my check of the 5 wires going to the distributor, I see no voltage on any of the 5. Perhaps I am not checking it the correct way. I only have a Chiltons which has not been helpful.

I also checked the coil harness and there was no voltage on cranking. If I read correctly, voltage should pass to the coil when the *thing* hit's the hall sensor??

It seems to me though that no voltage can pass through, if no voltage is GOING to the distributor in the first place.

Please help!
three things to check.. the fuse for hot power to the distributor, the ignition coil, and the ignition module. if the fuse is fine, and there are no obvious cuts in any of the wires on the harness, i would go to autozone, buy the DELCO( dont buy the el cheap wells module ) ignition module, and buy an ignition coil. more than likely it is the module that is bad.. if it doesnt solves yoru problem, then it is the coil, and return which ever item you dont use..no point spendig alot of time troubleshooting when you can use trial and error in this case
 

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stickpony said:
three things to check.. the fuse for hot power to the distributor, the ignition coil, and the ignition module. if the fuse is fine, and there are no obvious cuts in any of the wires on the harness, i would go to autozone, buy the DELCO( dont buy the el cheap wells module ) ignition module, and buy an ignition coil. more than likely it is the module that is bad.. if it doesnt solves yoru problem, then it is the coil, and return which ever item you dont use..no point spendig alot of time troubleshooting when you can use trial and error in this case
Chuckle....
Most, if not all, auto supply stores will NOT take electrical components back for refund, only exchange. Troubleshooting is not a waste of time. It is a thorough test of all related components, and assurance that the tested components are good. Keeping your car or truck all GM, Ford, or Mopar is always a good suggestion.
 

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93 Fleetwood RWD, 99 Deville
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91TexasSeville said:
Chuckle....
Most, if not all, auto supply stores will NOT take electrical components back for refund, only exchange. Troubleshooting is not a waste of time. It is a thorough test of all related components, and assurance that the tested components are good. Keeping your car or truck all GM, Ford, or Mopar is always a good suggestion.
My trial and error when it was injectors cost me about 1300 more than it should have. ouch


Blaze
 

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70 Fleetwood, 87 and 90 Brougham, 94 Fleetwood
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There must be battery voltage to the distributor anytime the key is in the run or crank position. This is the larger of the two wires at the end of the connector under tha cap. You can check this with any test light.

Mike
 

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91TexasSeville said:
Chuckle....
Most, if not all, auto supply stores will NOT take electrical components back for refund, only exchange. Troubleshooting is not a waste of time. It is a thorough test of all related components, and assurance that the tested components are good. Keeping your car or truck all GM, Ford, or Mopar is always a good suggestion.
autozone takes them back just fine..at least they do for me, maybe they dot liek you? hahaha
 
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