2018 ATS 2.0 MAP Sensor Pigtail Dilemma

Don't know if the zip tie trick will work to retain that particular broken connector, but you could give it a try with appropriate size zip tie:


If that doesn't work...

There are repair pigtails available. They come with a few inches of wire, so just clip wires at damaged connector, solder on wires of repair pigtail, use heat shrink for protection. But you'll have to check to see if one is available for this sensor. If they list it as available, will probably have to order. I've never seen them sold by a dealership of any brand, they always want to sell you the harness section. But Autozone, O'reilly, Amazon, etc, sometimes have them. When it comes in, take sensor with you to make sure it is correct one.

Or you can get a connector section at junkyard, just clip the wires to leave you plenty to work with. That MAP sensor is probably used on a lot of GM products in that year range, so doesn't necessarily need to be exact same vehicle. Since you have the 2.0, check turbo/supercharged vehicles. Maybe sensor connector off a NA vehicle would also work. Again, take the sensor with you to make sure you get what you need.

Last, I don't trust a lot of parts store sensors. OEM or a good quality brand (some of them supply original parts to OEM). Sucks to replace a sensor, still have problems, waste time chasing the rabbit.

edit: let junkyard know what your intentions are if you go that route. They might not want you clipping a connector off a valuable engine harness off a supercharged C7 or something.

I don't know exactly what connector style you have but pretty much any of these connectors can be released with care and the proper tool to either depress or lift whatever the broken tab worked on. I have run into this issue with cheap connectors used in expensive consumer products.

But before you do anything further, disconnect the negative battery lead until you finish so that you don't create fireworks and collateral damage from a mistake. Use a good light (and a magnifier if needed) to understand how the connector lock mechanism works and then you can probably figure out a good path to release it. Depending upon the mechanism, either some of the tiniest "pry fingers" use to remove trim or a small straight blade precision screwdriver will probably do the release trick. You are basically approaching this like you are picking a lock.

Don't try to pull the connector apart until you have used the necessary tool(s) to release the lock because tension will work against it releasing.

You should be able to find a repair pigtail with matching connector but worst case just use a weather proof pigtail connector pair with enough leads and replace the existing broken connector and its opposite end with the new pair. If you aren't adequate at soldering and properly insulating the connections (heat shrink on the individual wires and a few wraps of high quality electrical tape, not too tight, to protect the heat shrink from abrasion). Do NOT wrap the electrical tape too tightly or you will cause any rough spots in the soldered connections to break through the heat shrink. If you make good smooth solder joints, a single heat shrink tube over each connection is fine. If your joints aren't high quality, then use a second larger diameter heat shrink over the first for improved reliability.

Rodger

If I am not wrong the MAP-sensor connector is named B74.

You did not mention if you have the 2.0T (LTG) or the 3.6 (LCV or LFX).

For LTG:
OEM Connector: 13697268
Service Connector: 19119897


Google has just a few hits and this seems to be an adress where you can buy it ... but everything is in asian language:


For LCV / LFX:
OEM Connector: 13145408


Service Connector: 13585850

13585850 was replaced by 13384360


Or you call some junkyards ... with the right price they will cut a engine wiring harness