Hey all. I've just recently purchased my Cadillac with 49k miles and I'm trying to get some suggestions on what to do first. I'm wanting to make sure I can clean out the engine of any built up carbon or gunk as just a peace of mind sort of thing and was hoping for some simple suggestions for that. I've also noticed what sounds like a rattle noise on light to moderate acceleration that I'm assuming has to do with the exhaust but I haven't had an opportunity to confirm that. If any of you guys have any other suggestions on things to take care of then I'm open for anything. I really love the car so far and I'm hoping to keep it for a long time.
2016 Vsport New Owner
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2019 CT6 Blackwing, 2014 CTS-V Sport,1987 Buick Grand National,1972 Pontiac,2018 Ram megacab stick
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648 Posts
2nd that suggestion. As to "cleaning out engine", you don't need anything other than maybe a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and always use good fuel like shell. First thing to check is intercooler coolant level. They are always low.
Sent from my Galaxy Fold. Welcome to the future.
Welcome and congratulations on your purchase.
Everything that you read below is my two cents and there are some folks on here that will possibly disagree with me for their own very valid reasons.
You'll find a few people that use CRC Turbo and Intake cleaner, myself included, but I've slowly come to the realization that it's more trouble than it's worth (for me, at least). The team at CRC are very friendly and helpful when you reach out to them and they definitely know what they're talking about.
Having seen an older 3.6L engine (it was non-turbo though) from a CTS pulled apart, there was virtually no carbon buildup present in the combustion chambers, piston heads, intake valves. There was carbon present, of course, but no significant build up.
The first time I'd done this, the car choked out a bit of black smoke after the first start-up but everything else has been relatively uneventful since then. I used to do this every other oil change.
You'll also find that the car will want to stall out after you start it up post-heat soak. Usually driving for a minute or two and then coming to a complete stop. It'll happen a few times before the car burns it off and/or adjusts itself. It was a bit disconcerting to me and once or twice was accompanied by check engine lights which quickly cleared.
One problem with the process is the difficulty feeding this into the turbo inlets because of their angle. In addition to that, having the two turbos on either side of the engine leaves you with a conundrum.
Do you do one side with half the can and then the other side with the other half? This almost definitely burns off any of the solvent that's sprayed through the inlet on the first half of the process without allowing it to soak.
OR
Do you buy two cans and try to spray both at the same time while the engine is running? This is awkward, bordering on painful, and will be an exercise in frustration as one or both straws will pull out of the can at some point leaving you to fight to get it back in while you've sprayed this stuff all over the place.
More than that, I've usually got to replace the air filter shortly after every time this is done because of the angle of those inlets. The Turbo and Intake Cleaner will bleed back through the pipes and find its way into the air filter box and air filter creating a mess and damaging the filter. This is the main reason I've given up on the process.
Some may recommend that you install a catch can or catch CANS (we have 3 PCV hoses in this engine, 2 of them with check valves and one without). This has also proven to be more trouble than its worth for me. If you're in a region with cold winter weather, these will fill up with water pretty quickly and you're going to find yourself checking them every couple of days. In our hot, humid summers here I would barely get any oil in them between oil changes. Again, I've seen little benefit to these since there's no significant carbon buildup in these engines. Also, only one of these PCV valves has been found to show any oil in them at all (I can't remember which one... I THINK it's the front/main/naturally aspirated one).
As for the rattling, this is almost certainly the tab that connects the two pipes about mid-way down. One of the welds will crack and this will buzz on start-up and under light acceleration. I just snapped mine off while the car was on a hoist.
When I had the rear subframe bushings replaced a couple months ago, they had also found a crack in the exhaust which they welded. The car sounded like new after that.
Good luck and enjoy the car! You'll have a blast. The group here is also very knowledgeable, helpful and quick to respond and offer input. You've found your forever home, Dyne. LOL
Everything that you read below is my two cents and there are some folks on here that will possibly disagree with me for their own very valid reasons.
You'll find a few people that use CRC Turbo and Intake cleaner, myself included, but I've slowly come to the realization that it's more trouble than it's worth (for me, at least). The team at CRC are very friendly and helpful when you reach out to them and they definitely know what they're talking about.
Having seen an older 3.6L engine (it was non-turbo though) from a CTS pulled apart, there was virtually no carbon buildup present in the combustion chambers, piston heads, intake valves. There was carbon present, of course, but no significant build up.
The first time I'd done this, the car choked out a bit of black smoke after the first start-up but everything else has been relatively uneventful since then. I used to do this every other oil change.
You'll also find that the car will want to stall out after you start it up post-heat soak. Usually driving for a minute or two and then coming to a complete stop. It'll happen a few times before the car burns it off and/or adjusts itself. It was a bit disconcerting to me and once or twice was accompanied by check engine lights which quickly cleared.
One problem with the process is the difficulty feeding this into the turbo inlets because of their angle. In addition to that, having the two turbos on either side of the engine leaves you with a conundrum.
Do you do one side with half the can and then the other side with the other half? This almost definitely burns off any of the solvent that's sprayed through the inlet on the first half of the process without allowing it to soak.
OR
Do you buy two cans and try to spray both at the same time while the engine is running? This is awkward, bordering on painful, and will be an exercise in frustration as one or both straws will pull out of the can at some point leaving you to fight to get it back in while you've sprayed this stuff all over the place.
More than that, I've usually got to replace the air filter shortly after every time this is done because of the angle of those inlets. The Turbo and Intake Cleaner will bleed back through the pipes and find its way into the air filter box and air filter creating a mess and damaging the filter. This is the main reason I've given up on the process.
Some may recommend that you install a catch can or catch CANS (we have 3 PCV hoses in this engine, 2 of them with check valves and one without). This has also proven to be more trouble than its worth for me. If you're in a region with cold winter weather, these will fill up with water pretty quickly and you're going to find yourself checking them every couple of days. In our hot, humid summers here I would barely get any oil in them between oil changes. Again, I've seen little benefit to these since there's no significant carbon buildup in these engines. Also, only one of these PCV valves has been found to show any oil in them at all (I can't remember which one... I THINK it's the front/main/naturally aspirated one).
As for the rattling, this is almost certainly the tab that connects the two pipes about mid-way down. One of the welds will crack and this will buzz on start-up and under light acceleration. I just snapped mine off while the car was on a hoist.
When I had the rear subframe bushings replaced a couple months ago, they had also found a crack in the exhaust which they welded. The car sounded like new after that.
Good luck and enjoy the car! You'll have a blast. The group here is also very knowledgeable, helpful and quick to respond and offer input. You've found your forever home, Dyne. LOL
03 EXT Sold / 11 CTS V Coupe sold / 15 CTS Vsport sold / 16 CT6 TT
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251 Posts
One other place to look is the Turbo. Turbo rattle has been discussed and I developed that problem.
Its a wastegate washer, I believe...
GM replaced both my turbos. A little overkill but the rattle went away.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Its a wastegate washer, I believe...
GM replaced both my turbos. A little overkill but the rattle went away.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
2014 CTS V-Sport Premium, 1983 Mercedes 300SD (project car), 1997 Jeep XJ
Joined
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78 Posts
There's not much aftermarket support for the LF3. I just used CRC Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner on a different car that had a wonky idle and intermittent crank/no-start. It worked absolute magic. Someone here suggested I'd see some benefits using it in the Caddy too so that's next on my list. Might as well toss some seafoam in the tank too just because reasons.
If you really want to up your game, get a Trifecta tune. Serious kick in the pants!
If you really want to up your game, get a Trifecta tune. Serious kick in the pants!
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