2016 engine knock/tick

Collapsed lifters causes the push rods to bend. If I was you I would replace lifters on cylinder 4 & 6, the head gasket, bolts for head, oil pressure sensor, spark plugs, header gasket and the vlom which I feel is the root cause for this whole ordeal. If you want I could send you the receipts with the parts Cadillac changed when this happened to my 2018 last fall. You don’t want the lifters to fail again and destroy the engine when you could spend less than $1500 for parts and don’t have to worry in the near future. You need to inspect the camshaft to see if any of the lobes was eaten up. The drivers side lifters never fail on the 2015-2020 6.2. I have not seen on any forum about the driver side failing on the 6.2 k2xx. You need to find out why the rod bent. If you search on this forum lifter failure at 79k you will see my post when I posted the receipts for the parts that was changed. I would only use Dexos 1 gen. 2 or gen. 3 oil with OEM or Mobil 1 filter. Change the oil at 5k moving forward. I don’t think the Range AFM disable tool works. I have seen members still have issues with the Range tool. The only way to disable the AFM right is to change the hardware which is very involved. You have to replace the camshaft with one from a L92 engine plus all lifters and still you have to turn off the AFM using a programmer. At the very least I would change the vlom with the updated part that GM changed recently.

everything has been fine since i replaced it. i have several thousand miles since and i tow regularly not to mention i drive a "little" spirited, then factor in im in atlanta allot lol. i did some research when i first heard the noise and the pushrod problem came up often. i have a suspicion of what caused it and it may be my fault. i neglected to completely dry the air filter after washing and it caused the engine to hesitate at a higher rpm and im wondering if that caused it. not sure if it matters but i have the trifecta tune and have dod disabled in sport mode which i mainly use. ive been using amsoil signature with their oil filters since i got it at 65000 miles and i will attest that it looked brand new when i removed the valve cover, even my neighbor commented on that, i have about 125,000 on the odometer. not 1 speck of anything or any discoloration of any type just brand new looking metal. i think my next upgrade will be an oil catch can, believe i will get the upr one. im curious to see how quickly it fills. if you have ever taken your intake tube loose from the throttle body and opened the throttle blade and shined a flash light inside the intake you will see where the majority of oil that you lose is going!

Since I haven't heard the engine making noises that I haven't already alleviated, and I suspect I may have caused the push rod problem, I'm calling this one done. The first time I suspected a valve issue I found it to be the manifold bolts and gasket. I haven't had any check engine lights or any codes and everything sounds good now then nothing else is broken so if I change the lifters I mean what are the odds that those are weak and may fail. What's your suggesting I do is remove the head assembly and it's not needed right now so I'm not doing it I appreciate the concern. I'm just glad I'm the one working on this escalade instead of paying the dealer thousands and thousands of dollars. I can almost guarantee that of the two problems I had that I fixed, at least one of the times the dealer would have told me I needed all new valves and your well aware of the cost. The engine is purring now. I recently changed all the O2 sensors due to their age, barometric sensor, maf sensor and will be replacing more this summer just to be proactive, I rely heavily on this vehicle so I don't have a problem changing parts due to them being old. I usually pick some items up when I see them at a very good price as it's hard to pass up I just ordered a OEM backup camera for like 40 bucks brand new. I got all the oxygen sensors for like $160 and they are OEM. Not a bad deal.