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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I would say at this point, if you're happy in general with how the ATS-V coupe looks and feels (outside of the power, since you hadn't experienced a fully functional vehicle yet), do as previously suggested and search for another example maybe a bit further away. I can tell you, I had a full bolt on 335i (JB4 as well) and this car feels and is quite a bit faster. I have had the V stock for about 2 years, and plan to modify this coming fall, and I am very excited for how potentially quick this car can be.

So again, if everything else checks your boxes, find a better kept example at more reputable dealership and take the plunge.
Yeh i agree at worst I got to atleast see it in person, get a feel for the suspension, handling, interior etc.

Sucks because its low miles, body's mint and it has every option I was looking for, though I probably should get a sedan with a pregnant wife lol (I'd have 2 cars regardless since it'll be garaged for winter).

Can't help but want 2 put a deposit down with the purchase dependent on it being fixed, but maybe I should wipe my hands with this one, idk!

Kind of crazy the car was showing 0 boost the whole time, wonder what that could be.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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Dealership doesn't appear to be top notch. Unless it's a steal and Bumper to Bumper CPO I'd walk.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Def not top notch, the service techs were clueless and dismissive (until I showed them evidence).

Weird because this cadillac dealership I've always heard good things about. No experience with Vs isn't helping their cause.

The price is good, but only powertrain left til next April. Not a CPO but if it was that would be then too im guessing (6 years right?)
 

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2018 ATS-V M6
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I run into situations similar to this weekly. Last Friday a customer drove in from out of state to have me tune his car. Told me the car felt fine, but had only ever shown 10 psi on the boost gauge as long as he had owned it. We did a data scan and I saw that the ECM was commanding high WGDC but the boost was not increasing above 10 psi. Popped the hood and showed him which vacuum line had been left off, most likely when the previous owner replaced his spark plugs.

Took another test drive and this time he had 20 psi of boost. However, the car would misfire horribly under power. I theorized at the time that the previous owner probably replaced the spark plugs and didn't use any dielectric grease. So instead of tuning his car, I sent him back home with a fresh set of pre-gapped Brisk spark plugs and a packet of dielectric grease. Later that night he replaced the plugs and now the car runs great.

Bottom line was that he gained about 100 horsepower by replacing the spark plugs, adding dielectric grease and plugging in a vacuum hose. If I had to bet, I would guess that the previous owner tuned the car, replaced the spark plugs, lost 100 horsepower, got frustrated and dumped the car. One year later I lost a tune sale, but gained a friend. And I'll take that deal any day.

If you really want THIS particular car, order HP Tuners and borrow the car from the dealership for one day. I'm fairly certain within an hour or two I could help you remotely diagnose (and potentially resolve) the issue. Feel free to contact me directly at [email protected] if you want to discuss further.
 

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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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As Scott is describing, whatever the issue is, it is an easily resolved issue. Giving up on a car over it is a mistake.
 

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97 Eldo ETC,98 STS,04 SRX N*,06 STS N*,14 CTS VSport Premium, 17 CTS Vsport Prem Lux
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As Scott is describing, whatever the issue is, it is an easily resolved issue. Giving up on a car over it is a mistake.
Yes, but the dealer should be able to fix this. If not, I’d look elsewhere. There must be plenty of 2017s coming off 3yr leases.


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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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Yes, but the dealer should be able to fix this. If not, I’d look elsewhere. There must be plenty of 2017s coming off 3yr leases.


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Sure. This dealer or another one after you buy it. The car is under warranty. It will be fixed. And if not, its would be a simple DYI fix. If you don't want to deal with any of this, sure.... keep looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Not that I don't want to deal with it, its just a shitty way to start off a potential purchase. Even shittier is the fact they didnt want to listen to me originally. Makes something that should be exciting a kind of pain in the ass.

Also let's say this condition has been present for a year or so. Would that have any adverse consequences to the engine?
 

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Not that I don't want to deal with it, its just a shitty way to start off a potential purchase. Even shittier is the fact they didnt want to listen to me originally. Makes something that should be exciting a kind of pain in the ass.
Also let's say this condition has been present for a year or so. Would that have any adverse consequences to the engine?
True, but it maybe a way to get a better deal.
Their response it typical of a Cadillac dealer. Unless there is already a TSB you can point to, it is almost always a multi trip project to get them to acknowledge and address an issue. They don't know these cars and don't care to know them.

Very very unlikely based on what we think the issue maybe. Its probably just vacuum hoses. The car is getting less or no boost. The engine would not complain about that.
 

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2016 ATS-V Coupe (Catti-V)
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Well drove it again, this time took video evidence of oil temp @ 180 before I drove it "aggressively" and showed different pulls with the boost gauge at a perfect never moving 0.

Shared the link and now its on them, sadly there master tech isn't in today because I would have loved to see his expression after he said the other day the car runs just fine.

Crazy part is there's other guys interested in this car, a few having driven it and noone else said anything lol.
When you say aggressive pulls only showing zero boost what exactly is an aggressive pull? Are you wide open throttle or are you just giving it a good amount of gas because you can accelerate pretty fast in this car without going into positive boost?
Many people get confused and think if the Boost only shows 0 they aren't making boost and that's not true. When the car is idling it's making about -10 PSI give or take.
When you give the car gas it starts moving up from -10 PSI heading towards zero. There's a lot of power to be made before it gets to 0. 0 Is just the reference point where you pass the current barometric pressure. if you had a gauge that showed you both the negative boost and the positive boost you would see that movement. The only reference you can use for how much boost you are making is to go wide open throttle after the car has warmed up. if you are stock you should be seeing somewhere near 14 PSI. sometimes it can be less depending on conditions. Wide open throttle means putting the pedal to the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
When you say aggressive pulls only showing zero boost what exactly is an aggressive pull? Are you wide open throttle or are you just giving it a good amount of gas because you can accelerate pretty fast in this car without going into positive boost?
Many people get confused and think if the Boost only shows 0 they aren't making boost and that's not true. When the car is idling it's making about -10 PSI give or take.
When you give the car gas it starts moving up from -10 PSI heading towards zero. There's a lot of power to be made before it gets to 0. 0 Is just the reference point where you pass the current barometric pressure. if you had a gauge that showed you both the negative boost and the positive boost you would see that movement. The only reference you can use for how much boost you are making is to go wide open throttle after the car has warmed up. if you are stock you should be seeing somewhere near 14 PSI. sometimes it can be less depending on conditions. Wide open throttle means putting the pedal to the floor.
Thanks for the reply, yes I understand its normally under a vacuum until I reach atmospheric pressure. By aggressive It was multiple wide open throttle pulls (from 1st to 2nd and I did a 2nd to 3rd for them). The reason I put quotes around aggressive was that it wasn't fast, car was slow as shit, i am assuming that's why you asked your question.

I never went positive during the pulls, it was dead nuts 0 the whole time. First time I drove it I immediately knew something was off compared to my car, 2nd time I drove it was when I took video to show the dealership some sort of evidence so they would start to take me seriously. Salesman and the gm master tech both drove it and said they didnt notice anything wrong.

Edit: I did drive about 10 miles or so to get the oil temp above 180 F as someone suggested before i got on it.
 

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If at wide open throttle you're getting zero the car is intentionally preventing you from making any boost. It's sensing a problem somewhere. Have you scanned your ECU To see what hidden codes are present. I guarantee there are a few is it holding you to 0
 

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Discussion Starter #34
True, but it maybe a way to get a better deal.
Their response it typical of a Cadillac dealer. Unless there is already a TSB you can point to, it is almost always a multi trip project to get them to acknowledge and address an issue. They don't know these cars and don't care to know them.

Very very unlikely based on what we think the issue maybe. Its probably just vacuum hoses. The car is getting less or no boost. The engine would not complain about that.
That's also true, car is already priced right too so not sure how much they would move but it's always worth a try, at the very least I should get some sort of assurance out of it. They had a guy who drove it, put a deposit on it and only backed out apparently due to financing so all ive done is create problems for them lol. Still cant believe I'm the only one who noticed, my wife could tell within 5 seconds.

I know some but not nearly enough about engines, logically to me the engine would be fine in this scenario where it's not getting as much "extra" air to the cylinders as it would otherwise. You guys seem to know what's up with these cars so I defer to yall.

Thanks to yall for the help, very appreciative.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
If at wide open throttle you're getting zero the car is intentionally preventing you from making any boost. It's sensing a problem somewhere. Have you scanned your ECU To see what hidden codes are present. I guarantee there are a few is it holding you to 0
They are working on it, Monday or tuesday I should know more and will update. I am hoping it's as simple as what some guys have mentioned the problem might be. Their service techs dont give me a lot of confidence though.
 

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I highly recommend you get yourself a Bluetooth OBD reader. For about $75 you'll have a way of knowing what's going on without having to go to the dealer. It will save you a lot of time and headaches. The engine on these cars are pretty Bulletproof so those of us who have been around awhile know common issues that can pop up and are easily fixed. when you take it to the dealer They have never seen this car and have no history with it so unless the ECU tell them what's wrong they are clueless.

One thing I know off the top of my head that will make the car prevent any kind of boost is excessive misfires.
 

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Chances are someone either left a vacuum line disconnected or connected to the wrong spot if they had the vacuum tank assembly off at some point-- which you have to remove to change spark plugs. There's also a chance one of the nipples is broken off one of the solenoids, they can break if you aren't nice to them.

Less likely, but possible, could be that the mechanical vacuum pump at the back of the passenger side cylinder head that is the vacuum source for controlling the wastegates and blowoff valves isn't working. I've also read one case where the vacuum tank had a leaking seam at one of the ultrasonic welds so it wasn't holding vacuum-- that lead to all kinds of wastegate and blowoff valve issues even though everything was connected and appeared to be working properly. The leaking seam was found with a smoke test.

Oddly enough, the car usually won't throw any codes for many of these issues related to the vacuum pump, tank, and control solenoid system... about the only thing it will throw a code for is a disconnected or shorted wastegate or blowoff valve control solenoid.

A decent tech with the GM Service Instructions in hand should be able to track down the issue fairly quickly, even if they haven't worked on one of these cars before.
 

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Hello, been a lurker past year and finally got to test drive one.

Was a 2016 coupe V automatic with pretty much every option so I was more than excited to see one drop in my geographical lap.

Even better due to COVID I got to go on the test drive myself. Car sounded good, felt tight and buttoned up and handled perfect. What I noticed next was it felt neutered, like the turbos weren't building boost (I forgot to toggle the boost meter until I was driving away in my car but more on that later). Felt kind of sluggish even though the shifts were quick.

I went through sport/track and manually shifted. Even picked up my wife at home to see if I was going crazy or not. She agreed with me immediately that my car felt faster. My car is a jb4 tuned 2018 q50, so essentially the power of a red sport (400 hp, 350 ft lb). After I told the salesman to drive it I then took my car for a lap and mine felt like it kill it in a race, i was getting thrown in my seat and I had no such sensation like that in the V. I KNOW the V would murder my car so here I am utterly confused.

I turned traction control off, went through every mode and went to the paddles, no change. Salesman hesitates to say much to cover his butt probably, has his guy look at it i get a call just now saying years ago there was a bulletin where "there was too much kick and so they did something to prevent that" he went on to essentially say first 2 gears were slower but the top end should still be there.

I need to see how the boost meter went, it almost felt like there is a failed turbo, I told him to check that after I left and he said he saw it but he doesn't know exactly what he's looking at so I didn't get specifics.

Anyone help shed light on this bulletin from a few years ago (sounds insane to me) or maybe what boost I should expect at what rpm range so when I go back I can see if its proper or not. Any other advice/tips would be helpful, I've looked at these cars for a year and I'm disappointed today!
If you're from the Syracuse area then I know the car you're talkin about. I drove it a few days after it came in and It felt off to me too. Rolling on the power or stomping on it didn't get the response I expected.The modes didn't matter. I've driven a couple other ATS-V's that felt a lot stronger. At first I thought it was just me, but I drove the car for about an hour and ended up walking away from it. Its a gorgeous car but it has a few other problems if you really look it over. Too bad. When I 1st saw it I was pretty sure there was going to be a new addition to my shop. They either don't want to put the time into fixing it or the tech just doesn't know where to begin.
 

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To be honest, I wouldn't buy a car from that dealer. That whole thing about a TSB coming out that reduced the power really turned me off and I don't like it when a dealer bullshits me.
Another reason is the Northeast is hard on cars with all the snow and salt. If I were to get another ats-v I would look hard in either Texas or North Carolina. In North Carolina you have the Hendrick Motors group and they are big in auto racing and typically have a good selection of V's at their Cadillac dealerships. In Texas you're looking at Sewell Motors Who has dealerships in several locations like Dallas and Houston. They are also one of the primary supporters of the Cadillac V-club.
I would fly to the Midwest to pick up a car and then driving home before I would buy one in the Northeast. The dry weather out there just makes cars last a lot longer.

One thing you have to be careful with buying used ATS-Vs now Is the possibility that they were previously tuned. Whichever car you decide to buy I would request that that dealership scan the ECU and put it in writing that they verified the factory programming is on the car and you have full warranty.
The last thing you want is to buy a car that looks okay and has plenty of warranty and then the first time something comes up that needs to be repaired They tell you that the car shows it had a tune on it before. It doesn't matter if you put the tune on it or not, once they find it they will block the warranty unless you got some type of certification from them that the vehicle was good to go. Buying a CPO vehicle is a good start.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I did think of asking for a scan but I didnt think about getting it in writing, that's perfect advice for buying any used turbocharged vehicle, thanks for that.

Also thanks for the dealer recommendations. The cars originally from Ohio, so not quite central NY level winter but they still get snow. Looks pretty clean though, my rotors on my cars get demolished after 1 winter and this looked clean. Whatever V I end up with will be garaged for the winter anyway.

Yeh the service tech was on some bullshit bringing that up, couldn't believe what I was hearing.

The unfort thing is the cars I've looked at online either aren't the right price or the right set of options/colors. This checks every box, outside of it being a coupe which I'd love but I've always preferred the practicality of a sedan. I love how rare these cars are but it makes it hard shopping for one!
 
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