'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
Yeh i agree at worst I got to atleast see it in person, get a feel for the suspension, handling, interior etc.I would say at this point, if you're happy in general with how the ATS-V coupe looks and feels (outside of the power, since you hadn't experienced a fully functional vehicle yet), do as previously suggested and search for another example maybe a bit further away. I can tell you, I had a full bolt on 335i (JB4 as well) and this car feels and is quite a bit faster. I have had the V stock for about 2 years, and plan to modify this coming fall, and I am very excited for how potentially quick this car can be.
So again, if everything else checks your boxes, find a better kept example at more reputable dealership and take the plunge.
Yes, but the dealer should be able to fix this. If not, I’d look elsewhere. There must be plenty of 2017s coming off 3yr leases.As Scott is describing, whatever the issue is, it is an easily resolved issue. Giving up on a car over it is a mistake.
Sure. This dealer or another one after you buy it. The car is under warranty. It will be fixed. And if not, its would be a simple DYI fix. If you don't want to deal with any of this, sure.... keep looking.Yes, but the dealer should be able to fix this. If not, I’d look elsewhere. There must be plenty of 2017s coming off 3yr leases.
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True, but it maybe a way to get a better deal.Not that I don't want to deal with it, its just a shitty way to start off a potential purchase. Even shittier is the fact they didnt want to listen to me originally. Makes something that should be exciting a kind of pain in the ass.
Also let's say this condition has been present for a year or so. Would that have any adverse consequences to the engine?
When you say aggressive pulls only showing zero boost what exactly is an aggressive pull? Are you wide open throttle or are you just giving it a good amount of gas because you can accelerate pretty fast in this car without going into positive boost?Well drove it again, this time took video evidence of oil temp @ 180 before I drove it "aggressively" and showed different pulls with the boost gauge at a perfect never moving 0.
Shared the link and now its on them, sadly there master tech isn't in today because I would have loved to see his expression after he said the other day the car runs just fine.
Crazy part is there's other guys interested in this car, a few having driven it and noone else said anything lol.
Thanks for the reply, yes I understand its normally under a vacuum until I reach atmospheric pressure. By aggressive It was multiple wide open throttle pulls (from 1st to 2nd and I did a 2nd to 3rd for them). The reason I put quotes around aggressive was that it wasn't fast, car was slow as shit, i am assuming that's why you asked your question.When you say aggressive pulls only showing zero boost what exactly is an aggressive pull? Are you wide open throttle or are you just giving it a good amount of gas because you can accelerate pretty fast in this car without going into positive boost?
Many people get confused and think if the Boost only shows 0 they aren't making boost and that's not true. When the car is idling it's making about -10 PSI give or take.
When you give the car gas it starts moving up from -10 PSI heading towards zero. There's a lot of power to be made before it gets to 0. 0 Is just the reference point where you pass the current barometric pressure. if you had a gauge that showed you both the negative boost and the positive boost you would see that movement. The only reference you can use for how much boost you are making is to go wide open throttle after the car has warmed up. if you are stock you should be seeing somewhere near 14 PSI. sometimes it can be less depending on conditions. Wide open throttle means putting the pedal to the floor.
That's also true, car is already priced right too so not sure how much they would move but it's always worth a try, at the very least I should get some sort of assurance out of it. They had a guy who drove it, put a deposit on it and only backed out apparently due to financing so all ive done is create problems for them lol. Still cant believe I'm the only one who noticed, my wife could tell within 5 seconds.True, but it maybe a way to get a better deal.
Their response it typical of a Cadillac dealer. Unless there is already a TSB you can point to, it is almost always a multi trip project to get them to acknowledge and address an issue. They don't know these cars and don't care to know them.
Very very unlikely based on what we think the issue maybe. Its probably just vacuum hoses. The car is getting less or no boost. The engine would not complain about that.
They are working on it, Monday or tuesday I should know more and will update. I am hoping it's as simple as what some guys have mentioned the problem might be. Their service techs dont give me a lot of confidence though.If at wide open throttle you're getting zero the car is intentionally preventing you from making any boost. It's sensing a problem somewhere. Have you scanned your ECU To see what hidden codes are present. I guarantee there are a few is it holding you to 0
If you're from the Syracuse area then I know the car you're talkin about. I drove it a few days after it came in and It felt off to me too. Rolling on the power or stomping on it didn't get the response I expected.The modes didn't matter. I've driven a couple other ATS-V's that felt a lot stronger. At first I thought it was just me, but I drove the car for about an hour and ended up walking away from it. Its a gorgeous car but it has a few other problems if you really look it over. Too bad. When I 1st saw it I was pretty sure there was going to be a new addition to my shop. They either don't want to put the time into fixing it or the tech just doesn't know where to begin.Hello, been a lurker past year and finally got to test drive one.
Was a 2016 coupe V automatic with pretty much every option so I was more than excited to see one drop in my geographical lap.
Even better due to COVID I got to go on the test drive myself. Car sounded good, felt tight and buttoned up and handled perfect. What I noticed next was it felt neutered, like the turbos weren't building boost (I forgot to toggle the boost meter until I was driving away in my car but more on that later). Felt kind of sluggish even though the shifts were quick.
I went through sport/track and manually shifted. Even picked up my wife at home to see if I was going crazy or not. She agreed with me immediately that my car felt faster. My car is a jb4 tuned 2018 q50, so essentially the power of a red sport (400 hp, 350 ft lb). After I told the salesman to drive it I then took my car for a lap and mine felt like it kill it in a race, i was getting thrown in my seat and I had no such sensation like that in the V. I KNOW the V would murder my car so here I am utterly confused.
I turned traction control off, went through every mode and went to the paddles, no change. Salesman hesitates to say much to cover his butt probably, has his guy look at it i get a call just now saying years ago there was a bulletin where "there was too much kick and so they did something to prevent that" he went on to essentially say first 2 gears were slower but the top end should still be there.
I need to see how the boost meter went, it almost felt like there is a failed turbo, I told him to check that after I left and he said he saw it but he doesn't know exactly what he's looking at so I didn't get specifics.
Anyone help shed light on this bulletin from a few years ago (sounds insane to me) or maybe what boost I should expect at what rpm range so when I go back I can see if its proper or not. Any other advice/tips would be helpful, I've looked at these cars for a year and I'm disappointed today!