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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, been a lurker past year and finally got to test drive one.

Was a 2016 coupe V automatic with pretty much every option so I was more than excited to see one drop in my geographical lap.

Even better due to COVID I got to go on the test drive myself. Car sounded good, felt tight and buttoned up and handled perfect. What I noticed next was it felt neutered, like the turbos weren't building boost (I forgot to toggle the boost meter until I was driving away in my car but more on that later). Felt kind of sluggish even though the shifts were quick.

I went through sport/track and manually shifted. Even picked up my wife at home to see if I was going crazy or not. She agreed with me immediately that my car felt faster. My car is a jb4 tuned 2018 q50, so essentially the power of a red sport (400 hp, 350 ft lb). After I told the salesman to drive it I then took my car for a lap and mine felt like it kill it in a race, i was getting thrown in my seat and I had no such sensation like that in the V. I KNOW the V would murder my car so here I am utterly confused.

I turned traction control off, went through every mode and went to the paddles, no change. Salesman hesitates to say much to cover his butt probably, has his guy look at it i get a call just now saying years ago there was a bulletin where "there was too much kick and so they did something to prevent that" he went on to essentially say first 2 gears were slower but the top end should still be there.

I need to see how the boost meter went, it almost felt like there is a failed turbo, I told him to check that after I left and he said he saw it but he doesn't know exactly what he's looking at so I didn't get specifics.

Anyone help shed light on this bulletin from a few years ago (sounds insane to me) or maybe what boost I should expect at what rpm range so when I go back I can see if its proper or not. Any other advice/tips would be helpful, I've looked at these cars for a year and I'm disappointed today!
 

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2016 ATS-V
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It may not be a bad turbo, there are a number of lines running into the intercooler that could be unplugged that will dump boost and may not necessarily kick a CEL (speaking from experience). Stock peak boost levels are around 12-13 PSI if I remember correctly, so if you are not seeing that from mid to high revs, it is definitely a boost leak somewhere. However, if they are willing to quickly feed you an excuse about limiting power through a bulletin, I would steer clear, because they are way off base.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It may not be a bad turbo, there are a number of lines running into the intercooler that could be unplugged that will dump boost and may not necessarily kick a CEL (speaking from experience). Stock peak boost levels are around 12-13 PSI if I remember correctly, so if you are not seeing that from mid to high revs, it is definitely a boost leak somewhere. However, if they are willing to quickly feed you an excuse about limiting power through a bulletin, I would steer clear, because they are way off base.
Thanks for your reply.

This is at a Cadillac dealership too which is wild to me, as soon as he said that it reminded me of every other bullshit line some dealer has given me over the years, they never know anything about their cars either, I always feel like I am telling them about what's in what package etc.

Would a failed intercooler pump have no engine light either? I drove it for probably 30 plus miles, and didnt get on it for the first 5 or so, so everything should have been up to temp.

I agree about the steering clear but next one is 100s miles away and in my head I know this isn't the real V, boost Is getting cut somehow. At the very least I wanted to get out of this knowing I could buy sight unseen without as much anxiety.

Appreciate the help
 

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2017 Cadillac ATS-V Sedan
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Hello, been a lurker past year and finally got to test drive one.

Was a 2016 coupe V automatic with pretty much every option so I was more than excited to see one drop in my geographical lap.

Even better due to COVID I got to go on the test drive myself. Car sounded good, felt tight and buttoned up and handled perfect. What I noticed next was it felt neutered, like the turbos weren't building boost (I forgot to toggle the boost meter until I was driving away in my car but more on that later). Felt kind of sluggish even though the shifts were quick.

I went through sport/track and manually shifted. Even picked up my wife at home to see if I was going crazy or not. She agreed with me immediately that my car felt faster. My car is a jb4 tuned 2018 q50, so essentially the power of a red sport (400 hp, 350 ft lb). After I told the salesman to drive it I then took my car for a lap and mine felt like it kill it in a race, i was getting thrown in my seat and I had no such sensation like that in the V. I KNOW the V would murder my car so here I am utterly confused.

I turned traction control off, went through every mode and went to the paddles, no change. Salesman hesitates to say much to cover his butt probably, has his guy look at it i get a call just now saying years ago there was a bulletin where "there was too much kick and so they did something to prevent that" he went on to essentially say first 2 gears were slower but the top end should still be there.

I need to see how the boost meter went, it almost felt like there is a failed turbo, I told him to check that after I left and he said he saw it but he doesn't know exactly what he's looking at so I didn't get specifics.

Anyone help shed light on this bulletin from a few years ago (sounds insane to me) or maybe what boost I should expect at what rpm range so when I go back I can see if its proper or not. Any other advice/tips would be helpful, I've looked at these cars for a year and I'm disappointed today!
Hi, have a sedan ATS-V at home, unless you’re used to driving exotic sports cars like ferraris and lamborghinis, or you happen to daily drive a hellcat or Tesla P100D, this car should feel fast in nearly every situation. Anyone who isn’t desensitized to the speed should feel that the car is sufficiently quick even in touring mode, so I’d definitely agree that something must be wrong with the car.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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Something wrong with the car as well as that dealership.
 
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2017 ATS-V 6MT CWT Sedan, Tuned 2016 Explorer TT
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A common issue on these cars is air in the intercooler loop, which causes the intercooler pump to cavitate and then shutoff. Without fluid flow, the car will get knock and will retard timing. There wouldn't be an CEL light in this condition. This is easily remedied by feeling and bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi, have a sedan ATS-V at home, unless you’re used to driving exotic sports cars like ferraris and lamborghinis, or you happen to daily drive a hellcat or Tesla P100D, this car should feel fast in nearly every situation. Anyone who isn’t desensitized to the speed should feel that the car is sufficiently quick even in touring mode, so I’d definitely agree that something must be wrong with the car.
I drive a tuned q50, so no exotics here lol! Exactly my feeling as I was driving it, there's no way in hell this is the V I've read about for years. Dealership isn't taking it seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Something wrong with the car as well as that dealership.
Got that right, apparently the GM master tech at the dealership was the one who mentioned this frivolous "bulletin. Not sure why they aren't taking me seriously.

Personally I think they are willing to sell it as is and not even try to look into it as long as some guy takes the bait.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A common issue on these cars is air in the intercooler loop, which causes the intercooler pump to cavitate and then shutoff. Without fluid flow, the car will get knock and will retard timing. There wouldn't be an CEL light in this condition. This is easily remedied by feeling and bleeding.
Interesting. Thank you for that! I would like to mention that to them but who knows if they'd listen. Boost is clearly getting cut.

Great thing about these cars is they didn't make very many, bad thing is it is so hard to find one!
 

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LF4 Platform Master Tuner
2018 ATS-V M6
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90% of the time it's something simple on these cars. Sometimes the throttle is closing because the intercooler needs filled and bled. Other times someone left a vacuum line off and boost gets capped at 10 psi. Other times there are DTCs that provide clues. Regardless, we always figure them out.

If you can arrange to get a VCM Scanner data log I will be happy to assist with the diagnosis. My email is [email protected] if you want to contact me directly.
 

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2016 ATS-V Coupe (Catti-V)
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Before you jump on advice here you need to share actual numbers. Those of us who have had this car for a while know what certain numbers mean. The first thing you will need is an OBD Bluetooth reader that comes with a phone app. I recommend OBDLink. This will give you the numbers once its set up and the nice part is you can use it on your other cars as well. One thing to start. Make sure the oil temp is at 180 or higher before you try laying into it. This is a brick wall in the ECU and until you hit 180 you won't get full boost or power. Its meant to protect the car until its properly warmed up.
Question, was there or is there a tune on this car from before and they didn't tell you or didn't know? I would try to reach the prior owner via the dealership to find out.
Note: Don't let the boost gauge fool you in this car. It's accurate but only shows positive boost so you can generate pretty good power before you even hit boost about 0. Just because the gauge doesn't show the climb up from negative boost doesn't mean it's not happening.

Numbers needed:
Intake manifold temps
Boost level at WOT
misfire count on all 6 cyl
Octane of gas you're using

You can pay for HP tuners and let Scott at tapout tuning look at it but there's a lot of preliminary things you can check that will probably find your issue and save you some money.
 

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2016 ATS-V sedan 6 speed manual
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I see CNY in your forum name - central; NY? Whereabouts? I'm in Rochester so could possibly be of some assistance. PM me if you want.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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FWIW, when I bought my CTS-V wagon I bought it in Ann Arbor and drove it home to Jacksonville. Miles of smiles. What I am saying is it may be worth it to find one anywhere you can and make the drive home. Easier said than done in this new Covid age I realize.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I see CNY in your forum name - central; NY? Whereabouts? I'm in Rochester so could possibly be of some assistance. PM me if you want.
Yup, I live in Syracuse! These cars are a rarity everywhere but especially up here, as you know.

I will if it gets to that,
thank you very much for the offer I appreciate that!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FWIW, when I bought my CTS-V wagon I bought it in Ann Arbor and drove it home to Jacksonville. Miles of smiles. What I am saying is it may be worth it to find one anywhere you can and make the drive home. Easier said than done in this new Covid age I realize.
That's a good point, would be a fun drive home and a good way to get to know the car, never thought of it that way. Unfortunately as you mentioned, NY has travel restrictions on 31 states, so it does make it harder!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Before you jump on advice here you need to share actual numbers. Those of us who have had this car for a while know what certain numbers mean. The first thing you will need is an OBD Bluetooth reader that comes with a phone app. I recommend OBDLink. This will give you the numbers once its set up and the nice part is you can use it on your other cars as well. One thing to start. Make sure the oil temp is at 180 or higher before you try laying into it. This is a brick wall in the ECU and until you hit 180 you won't get full boost or power. Its meant to protect the car until its properly warmed up.
Question, was there or is there a tune on this car from before and they didn't tell you or didn't know? I would try to reach the prior owner via the dealership to find out.
Note: Don't let the boost gauge fool you in this car. It's accurate but only shows positive boost so you can generate pretty good power before you even hit boost about 0. Just because the gauge doesn't show the climb up from negative boost doesn't mean it's not happening.
Before you jump on advice here you need to share actual numbers. Those of us who have had this car for a while know what certain numbers mean. The first thing you will need is an OBD Bluetooth reader that comes with a phone app. I recommend OBDLink. This will give you the numbers once its set up and the nice part is you can use it on your other cars as well. One thing to start. Make sure the oil temp is at 180 or higher before you try laying into it. This is a brick wall in the ECU and until you hit 180 you won't get full boost or power. Its meant to protect the car until its properly warmed up.
Question, was there or is there a tune on this car from before and they didn't tell you or didn't know? I would try to reach the prior owner via the dealership to find out.
Note: Don't let the boost gauge fool you in this car. It's accurate but only shows positive boost so you can generate pretty good power before you even hit boost about 0. Just because the gauge doesn't show the climb up from negative boost doesn't mean it's not happening.

Numbers needed:
Intake manifold temps
Boost level at WOT
misfire count on all 6 cyl
Octane of gas you're using

You can pay for HP tuners and let Scott at tapout tuning look at it but there's a lot of preliminary things you can check that will probably find your issue and save you some money.
Numbers needed:
Intake manifold temps
Boost level at WOT
misfire count on all 6 cyl
Octane of gas you're using

You can pay for HP tuners and let Scott at tapout tuning look at it but there's a lot of preliminary things you can check that will probably find your issue and save you some money.
If i can get them to play ball I'd be all over that. Tmr I should find out more.

Honestly the problem is this cadillac dealership is use to selling SUVs in this NY climate. This might be the only V they've ever seen for all I know.
 

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2016 ATS-V Coupe (Catti-V)
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This is why I say don't let a GM dealership do this. 99% o them have no experience with a V and don't really care what your butt dyno or impression is. As long as its not generating CEL's or causing problems they can see they don't care. In short, they are not a performance shop, they are there to generate income for the dealership and keep the car running to spec.
Because you care the most about how your car performs you have to take measures so you can self diagnose performance issues before you bring it to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I could tell right off the bat they didnt know shit about the car, the sales man drove it right after me at my direction and said he didnt notice anything in partiular but hes not going to know, he probably drives an economical grocery getter. The GM master tech made up some BS about a service bulletin from years back. I picked up my wife on the test drive, she literally said it felt like her mazda 3 lol.

I am going back friday, probably a waste of time but I'll do what I can and armed with some more knowledge from you guys I'll be better prepared. We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well drove it again, this time took video evidence of oil temp @ 180 before I drove it "aggressively" and showed different pulls with the boost gauge at a perfect never moving 0.

Shared the link and now its on them, sadly there master tech isn't in today because I would have loved to see his expression after he said the other day the car runs just fine.

Crazy part is there's other guys interested in this car, a few having driven it and noone else said anything lol.
 

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Well drove it again, this time took video evidence of oil temp @ 180 before I drove it "aggressively" and showed different pulls with the boost gauge at a perfect never moving 0.

Shared the link and now its on them, sadly there master tech isn't in today because I would have loved to see his expression after he said the other day the car runs just fine.

Crazy part is there's other guys interested in this car, a few having driven it and noone else said anything lol.
I would say at this point, if you're happy in general with how the ATS-V coupe looks and feels (outside of the power, since you hadn't experienced a fully functional vehicle yet), do as previously suggested and search for another example maybe a bit further away. I can tell you, I had a full bolt on 335i (JB4 as well) and this car feels and is quite a bit faster. I have had the V stock for about 2 years, and plan to modify this coming fall, and I am very excited for how potentially quick this car can be.

So again, if everything else checks your boxes, find a better kept example at more reputable dealership and take the plunge.
 
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