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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sorry I’m sure this is a repost but having issues finding this for anything other then cts cars..

Looking to install an aftermarket amp and sub into the caddy.. (sgl 12 nothing fancy but more then factory)

1) issue.. using a kicker kisloc loc. I see issues for some connecting loc to the factory sub wires and some that don’t have this issue.. specifically I know the LCI units don’t have issues.. the kicker kisloc is able to take 50w input but can’t find anywhere that specifies how much the Bose system puts out to the factory sub.. I’m guessing it to be about this need confirmation..

2) I use no auto volume already so it’s my understanding I shouldn’t get feedback above 20mph from the loc?

3) frustrates me the xts doesn’t have a rear battery..how do xts owners run power wires? Nothing I see says I can run off the factory amp or rear fuse panel and get 80/100 amps needed..for power.. so going to have to run it to the under hood battery. My first thought is to not remove1/2 the interior drivers side panels or down the center console and have to fish the 4ga wire through the steering boot in the firewall which seems to be the single best way as I’m sure there is already plenty of wires going trunk to front with this rear fuse box but looks like the rear seat has to be completely reproved? If so thinking I’d rather go under the car and back up at the battery..Is this really the easiest way or is there an interior route that is maybe not easier but eliminates me having the drill a hole and install grommet in the trunk.

3) need good ground.. looks like there is a nice clean copper ground contact at the factory amp location on the passenger side.. anyone used this before and had any issues?

want a clean factory no seen wires install but also not keen on taking the entire car apart to get it if I don’t have too. We all know no mater how good you are there is always broken clips and such.. this is not even a week new to me even though it’s a 2014 and she is very low miles and almost showroom mint inside and out still.. just looking for the best way to get what I want and do it the easiest way possible..

Please if you own cts you guys have 1000’s of post on this I read them all.. I don’t need the cts way.. the cts is easy by comparison.. only xts or maybe ct5-6 owners that have done this themselves please.. maybe some srx or other owners who also have front battery placement and cue Bose systems… but I’m fairly sure all suv have factory grommets already in the floor for drainage.. maybe the xts does idk haven’t stripped the trunk just yet.. but getting ready to do maybe this part answers itself. But would prefer an inside the vehicle route if possible wo risking too much damage to the inside pulling panels or having to go overboard and remove one entire side of the vehicle..
 

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Welcome to the forum! Those of us that typically purchase an XTS are of, lets say, an advanced age. We don't tend to mess around with what already works fine for us. The CTS crowd, as you have noticed, is quite different. That being said, I did find this old thread. Not sure if it will help or not...

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum! Those of us that typically purchase an XTS are of, lets say, an advanced age. We don't tend to mess around with what already works fine for us. The CTS crowd, as you have noticed, is quite different. That being said, I did find this old thread. Not sure if it will help or not...

Thanks for the response and yeah I’m aging but I still enjoy my music the way it should be played. Not trying to rattle windows going down the steer I am 40.. but do enjoy well rounded music and also enough to empress the kids friends in a way as I’m not too old for this. Appreciate the response through but that is exactly the type of stuff I already found.
That said I just spent the past 4 hours or so doing most of this already.. I’ll be posting a thread here for those like me later with same concerns. I got 90% of the hard stuff done tonight most in the dark.. but I still have to get signal to the amp.. hopefully off the rear sun wires.. might have to do what the cts guys do and buy a loc that costs as much as my entire sun and amp setup but I kinda already answered 99% of my concerns tonight cause I’m too impatient to wait lol..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
ok this is going to be an ongoing thread cause this started out with me liking for advice on how to do this the best way and my impatience lead to me figuring it out pretty quick and easy.. I’m only currently 90% through this but there seems to be zero xts specific builds that address the issues I did have only cts ones.. so for the future xts owners who want a little more base and don’t have the battery in the trunk her you go..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok this is going to be an ongoing thread cause this started out with me liking for advice on how to do this the best way and my impatience lead to me figuring it out pretty quick and easy.. I’m only currently 90% through this but there seems to be zero xts specific builds that address the issues I did have only cts ones.. so for the future dts owners who want a little more base and don’t have the battery in the trunk her you go..
Ok my first concern was getting power from the under hood battery to the trunk as easy as possible..

I contemplated putting a grommet in the bottom of the trunk and running the power to the battery that way as it seemed that would likely be the easiest. All while hoping a grommet already existed. As I disassembled the trunk realized not such thing exists and both the gas tank and exhaust pipes come through right there which is a double no no for running any wire period..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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once removed you’ll have something that looks like this.. the rear seat cover is simply velcroed in and pulls off this photo includes bothering the bottoms foam insert and the rear seat portion being removed.. (sorry I didn’t originally intend theirs to be a step by step so only have a hand full of photos)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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From there you want to pry the driver side liner off which is one clip only near the truck opening.. bend the cutout around the truck lid support and the entire panel pulls away from the side of the car like this..

Notice there is a clean ground here already in place to be used later..
 

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It will be better if you do not make individual posts for each step, but combine steps into ONE post unless there are a lot of photos in which case put in as many as you can into one post and the rest into another post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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From there you pulls the driver side rear side cushion that has the airbag installed.. it has only one clip near the top then lefts up and forward to remove.

from there you work your way forward along the rear sill and driver sile plates which is where all the factory wiring is already.
Simply use a panel pry tool between the weatherstripping for the door and the panel.. you will be able to move it around and find the clips.. (these are most likely the clips you’ll break.. the clip won’t break but the metal insert that makes it work will.. they will likely fall off and down into the body of the car. You won’t need but one at each end honestly to get factory right fitment
going back in.. either way this is a cheap part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ignore the power wire this is me mocking it up going from truck to good as I remove the panels but this is pointless cause latter on you have to fish it from the engine bay backwards unless you want to do a lot of extra work..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Once you remove the sill prices back to front tier is a single 10mm screw under the obd plug.. remove this and you can move that panel far enough to the side using the driver side carpet to hold it back and see the huge additional firewall grommet they provided.. I simply used a pocket knife to poke an X through it then used an electrical fish tape to shove from under the dash into the engine bay while trying to angle it upwards and to the drivers side..

Once I got it between the coolest tank and the windshield washer tank (the easiest place to get it to wo removing half the engine bay or removing the front tire and working it that way.. I use electrical tape to secure the power wire to the fish tape and pulled the power wire back through from the engine side to the drivers area.. through the slit I made in the firewall grommet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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something like this originally..

I then used the top of the fuse box next to the battery to install the fuse terminal. All the way forward and to the driver side seemed to give the most clearance for proper hood closing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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I routed the wire around behind the violent overflow tank and zip ties it to the wires there while notching out both the positive batter cable cover (not needed) and the battery cover lid which need to be cut all the way up to the odd rear drop shape that is already in the lid and as wide as the cable is.. sorry don’t have a picture of this.. but it’s something you’ll figure out pretty easy on the fly or worst case you can just not out the cover back on and be fine..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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You then run the wire all the way back through on the drivers side. Using zip ties to hold it where you want.. the best way is in the inside between the carpet and the factory plastics trays that hold all the factory speaker wires etc.. as you don’t want interference.. there is just enough room to tuck the wore between the carpets for the floor and the plastics trays holding the 3a 16’ power lead will just barley reach fyi which is why the amp is being installed in the front side of the spare tire carrier area.. if you have a spare tire you’ll need at least 20’ to run it this way and come out in the rear storage compartment.
The amp ground is connected to the factory ground for the rear driver side fuse box.. clean connection point.. wires then ran under the side panel and I drilled holes in the foam liner for the spare tire and cargo box to route the wires behind the side panel and under the cargo carpet and into the under storage of the trunk. A basic amp kit with 16’ power and 3’ ground leads will work.. reinstalled all trim pieces for clean factory finish..

Worst case if the ground wire won’t reach you can use the center stuff for the spare tire/air compressor hold down.. you will just need a couple washers and couple bits that fit the threads.. but hands down it’s easier to use the clean factory locations in the truck.. one near the fuse box and the other on the passenger side for the factory amp location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’ve yet to deal with the loc which is my main concern.. but the hardest part is the power wiring. And this is prob the cleanest and easiest install I’ve ever done in 20 plus years. If you have any experience with this at all this is pretty Syrians forward and intuitive.

I’ll be hooking up an LOC to the factory sub wires tomorrow and will be posting more based off that experience. Once I have it all figured out I’ll be removing everything in the trunk once again and installing my dynomat to the entire trunk area.

in the process of doing this I will be losing function of the factory rear sun.. but with that I’m going to gain the ability to fade it with the cue system as to act like a base knob wo having to screw one to an interior panel somewhere and be tacky looking. I want a nice clean first and additional base second.

stay tuned as I’m going to try and make this work with a $27 kicker kisloc loc instead of having to buy an LC2 converter.. worst case I’m using a cxa kicker amp so I can do direct speaker to rca inputs..

Stay tuned.. 😏
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
One current last thing to note.. the trunk light is the same as used in the door sill lights..
Want to make a little extra buy one extra door light with the caddy emblem and put it in the trunk.. it’s correlated to the drivers side of the car so you’ll need a driver side bulb to make it work wo being upside down.. but adds a nice little finished touch to the project that is well worth doing when not only do you have the caddy emblem when opening the doors but also the trunk.. nice little extra when showing off that system
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One current last thing to note.. the trunk light is the same as used in the door sill lights..
Want to make a little extra buy one extra door light with the caddy emblem and put it in the trunk.. it’s correlated to the drivers side of the car so you’ll need a driver side bulb to make it work wo being upside down.. but adds a nice little finished touch to the project that is well worth doing when not only do you have the caddy emblem when opening the doors but also the trunk.. nice little extra when showing off that system
Tapped into the factory bose output to the sub at the harness. Didn’t want to splice wires and wanted to leave as much factory harness in tact as possible.. simple and effective line source for the amplifier..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tapped into the factory bose output to the sub at the harness. Didn’t want to splice wires and wanted to leave as much factory harness in tact as possible.. simple and effective line source for the amplifier..
After doing this my kicker amp that isn’t supposed to need a remote turn on with a 2.5v or higher rca input (the kisloc off the sun wires got me to 5.5-6v on my meter) didn’t turn on.. jumped the remote to the power on the amp for now.. I’ll be replacing the kisloc loc with the kisloc 2 tomorrow so I can get a remote off the loc to power the amp since it wants one for some reason on this application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
After doing this my kicker amp that isn’t supposed to need a remote turn on with a 2.5v or higher rca input (the kisloc off the sun wires got me to 5.5-6v on my meter) didn’t turn on.. jumped the remote to the power on the amp for now.. I’ll be replacing the kisloc loc with the kisloc 2 tomorrow so I can get a remote off the loc to power the amp since it wants one for some reason on this application.
From there I had the bose noise canceling issues even with the 14 speaker system and the auto volume off. As rev the motor I get motor noise in the speaker.. this took some research for this specific car as it appears to be way different then many others.. the cts is close the srx way different and that Escalade is different would although same systems and amps in different locations they seem to all use different wire colors to some extent.. the cts is closest however the 14 speaker system i have 9 wire harness not 7 and 2 of those are unaccounted for and much thicker then the rest.. still no clue what these do..

If you look close I cut the mic wires on the first black harness between the brown and the green harness.. (don’t ever touch the last black harness that is what runs 99% of the electrical in the vehicle)

I spent hours researching and double and Tripoli and quad checking this before Taking this step..

But if you look close you’ll see I cut 3 wires to the negative side of the mics that are part of the asl system. I didn’t cut all 6 I didn’t cut the positives I cut the negatives only and left them hanging cause it won’t be an issue.
Three simple wires in the middle of the harness on the bottom side of it. I don’t think anyone else has done it this way but imop this is the best way.. no need to cut all 6 and tape them up so they don’t short. Simply snip one side of each. I blew up the picture so I think everyone can see the exact wire colors to do this too.
Whatever you do whatever vehicle you have.. never cut anything that’s in the outside of the harness.. left outside or right outside.. one is the main data link for the entire infotainment cue system and idk what the other is but the wires are much bigger gauge.. only cut the inside wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
From there I had the bose noise canceling issues even with the 14 speaker system and the auto volume off. As rev the motor I get motor noise in the speaker.. this took some research for this specific car as it appears to be way different then many others.. the cts is close the srx way different and that Escalade is different would although same systems and amps in different locations they seem to all use different wire colors to some extent.. the cts is closest however the 14 speaker system i have 9 wire harness not 7 and 2 of those are unaccounted for and much thicker then the rest.. still no clue what these do..

If you look close I cut the mic wires on the first black harness between the brown and the green harness.. (don’t ever touch the last black harness that is what runs 99% of the electrical in the vehicle)

I spent hours researching and double and Tripoli and quad checking this before Taking this step..

But if you look close you’ll see I cut 3 wires to the negative side of the mics that are part of the asl system. I didn’t cut all 6 I didn’t cut the positives I cut the negatives only and left them hanging cause it won’t be an issue.
Three simple wires in the middle of the harness on the bottom side of it. I don’t think anyone else has done it this way but imop this is the best way.. no need to cut all 6 and tape them up so they don’t short. Simply snip one side of each. I blew up the picture so I think everyone can see the exact wire colors to do this too.
Whatever you do whatever vehicle you have.. never cut anything that’s in the outside of the harness.. left outside or right outside.. one is the main data link for the entire infotainment cue system and idk what the other is but the wires are much bigger gauge.. only cut the inside wires
After that it was a little tuning with a multimeter on the speaker outputs of the amp using a 40hrz tone to set the gains.. then remove everything and sound deaden and then reinstall everything back.
 

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