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2015 srx
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I own a 2012 SRX and it has started doing the same thing you have described. The car battery is 8 months old and I changed both key FOBs yesterday and the non-starting issue still persisted. In fact, the key FOB was not detected but it never showed "Low battery" or anything like that on the screen. It only said "service air bag" (WTF?)

I took the battery shroud (cover) off just to look at the connections and put it back on. Coincidentally, after I did that, the car started reacting to the key FOB differently. The blinker lights reacted to the unlock / lock commands from the FOB as they should. Prior to that, only one blinker light would flash...passenger side light on the front and the driver's side light on the rear. Then I noticed the car mileage on the screen showed up, which is a sign that you can now start the vehicle when the brake is pushed.

All of this was yesterday while I was stranded at work. And now this morning at home, I went up to the car and the door wouldn't unlock when I pulled the handle. This is a sign that the FOB is not detected. The only thing it would do is unlock the doors (just like yesterday) but could not start the car. The same "1 click" sound that you had and like yesterday.

I popped the hood to see if looking at the battery again could produce the same magic as yesterday. Sure enough, as soon as I did that, the mileage showed up on the screen and I knew I could now start the car. Sure enough it did start.

Bottom line here is....now I don't trust the car at all to be reliable - to start when needed, without putting on my tin-foil hat and doing a martian dance or something. Very frustrating.

Hi, not sure if you already figured out your problem, but I'll share my experience. I have a 2015 SRX with about 27k miles. Same problem, intermitent only. Car would be fine one minute, drive around, stop somewhere, now it won't start. Would wait anywhere from 30 minutes to 1.5 hrs and car would start again just fine as it never happened. Took several videos to show the symptoms. Took to the cadi shop, they said it was keyfob battery, replaced, that was not it. During another time I was stranded, took to shop and next they said it was the car battery, replaced battery, nope, that was not it. finally they got a 'master mechanic' involved, kept the car a few days. I showed them all the video I had. I was told the problem turned out to be the positive red cable going from the battery to the car. not sure exactly what was wrong with it, but it was replaced and tighten I guess. they even took a video themselves of when the car was running, they wiggled the battery cable by hand and the car died. I've now had the car back for about a week and no problem since. Hope this helps somebody because it was not an easy one to figure out.
 

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2015 srx
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I own a 2012 SRX and it has started doing the same thing you have described. The car battery is 8 months old and I changed both key FOBs yesterday and the non-starting issue still persisted. In fact, the key FOB was not detected but it never showed "Low battery" or anything like that on the screen. It only said "service air bag" (WTF?)

I took the battery shroud (cover) off just to look at the connections and put it back on. Coincidentally, after I did that, the car started reacting to the key FOB differently. The blinker lights reacted to the unlock / lock commands from the FOB as they should. Prior to that, only one blinker light would flash...passenger side light on the front and the driver's side light on the rear. Then I noticed the car mileage on the screen showed up, which is a sign that you can now start the vehicle when the brake is pushed.

All of this was yesterday while I was stranded at work. And now this morning at home, I went up to the car and the door wouldn't unlock when I pulled the handle. This is a sign that the FOB is not detected. The only thing it would do is unlock the doors (just like yesterday) but could not start the car. The same "1 click" sound that you had and like yesterday.

I popped the hood to see if looking at the battery again could produce the same magic as yesterday. Sure enough, as soon as I did that, the mileage showed up on the screen and I knew I could now start the car. Sure enough it did start.

Bottom line here is....now I don't trust the car at all to be reliable - to start when needed, without putting on my tin-foil hat and doing a martian dance or something. Very frustrating.


Hi, not sure if you already figured out your problem, but I'll share my experience. I have a 2015 SRX with about 27k miles. Same problem, intermittent problem only. Car would be fine one minute, drive around, and stop somewhere, now it won't start. Would wait anywhere from 30 minutes to 1.5 hrs and car would start again just fine as it never happened. Took several videos to show the symptoms. Took to the cadi shop, they said it was key fob battery, replaced, that was not it. During another time I was stranded, took to shop and next they said it was the car battery, replaced battery, nope, that was not it. Finally they got a 'master mechanic' involved, kept the car a few days. I showed them all the video I had. I was told the problem turned out to be the positive red cable going from the battery to the car. Not sure exactly what was wrong with it, but it was replaced and tighten I guess. They even took a video themselves of when the car was running, they wiggled the battery cable by hand and the car died. I've now had the car back for about a week and no problem since. Hope this helps somebody because it was not an easy one to figure out.
 

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2013 SRX Luxury Gray Flannel Metallic
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Discussion Starter #23
FINAL UPDATE...


It has been just over 3 months now since the dealer' service department replaced the negative battery cable and associated fuse and it has been starting normally. No more multiple pushes of the start button to make it start and the CUE system is working fine now.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this post doesn't jinx me!!

Thanks, everyone!
 

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Greetings,

The wife's 2013 SRX has developed a frustrating intermittent electrical problem. At times when she tries to start it there will be a single audible click from outside the car and the car won't start or even turn over. A repeat of the start sequence (foot on brake, push start button) will make it start, but sometimes it takes multiple start attempts, each attempt again making a single audible click from under the hood. The click sounds like the click when a battery is almost dead, except when it does turn over it shows no signs of a weak battery, it spins over normally. Also, when it finally does start her radio will have changed to a station she never listens too, in fact it changes to a station not used in our area, just dead air.

I've taken it in to our local Cadillac dealer twice, but they say they can't replicate the problem and they say there is no code(s) left. They did say they "think" they know what the problem is, but here's the kicker...they say it is about a $700 part and of course I'm 900 miles out of the Cadillac factory warranty, so if they replace it and bill my extended warranty and it doesn't fix it then the extended warranty company will bill them back and the dealer will in turn bill me for it!

I'm worried it is going to leave my wife stranded one of these times. They did assure me if she can't get it to start, to place the key fob in the bottom of the console like you would for a low fob battery and it would reset something and it will start, can anyone confirm that?

I'd rather not have to take it to another dealer since the next closest is about 1.5 hrs away and they might not have any more knowledge than my local one!

Anyone have this happen before or have any suggestions?

Thanks for your time!

PS, except for this problem, she absolutely loves her SRX!
I love my SRX too. And I am currently having this issue.
Please let me k ow if your problem was resolved and if so,can you share the information. Maybe it will help me with my issue.
Thank you for your imput 《3
 

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I had the same problem. Would start and then wouldn't. I'd let it sit for a while and then it would start. A few weeks ago it finally died completely. I had a mechanic look at it on the street. He put a tool that looked like a screwdriver to the battery post and the handle lit right up showing that the battery was perfectly fine. Then he put it on another post and the handle didn't light up. Then he asked if he could pierce the cable. The handle light barely lit up. He said it was a bad cable. He had never seen anything like it. He replaced the cable for $60 ($50 for his time and $10 for the cable). I gave him an extra $60 and thanked him profusely. Haven't had a problem starting it since. Now my CUE screen is dead, so I have to get that looked at, but I'm just hoping that's a fuse issue.
 

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I just dumped a grand at the dealer to trace and repair the cause of the electrical problem that was dangerously shutting down my car with driving. 6 days later, they said my 300w fuse over the battery was blown. After replacing it, the car started up but would die once put into drive. Replacing that entire fuse panel above the battery allowed then to discover the real culprit. Their words.

They said I must’ve reversed the polarity while jumping the car and burned out the “mega fuse” under the car. They replaced it, said all was good, and I could pick it up anytime before 7.

Firstly, I had never once jumped this vehicle since buying it, nor am I such an idiot to not be able to match red with red and black with black. I’m guessing they blew said mega fuse incompetently tracing the electrical anomaly, if there even exists such a fuse.

When I picked the car up later that day it was pouring out so I didn’t take the time to inspect their work before driving off, excited to finally have my car back.

Pulling into my garage I noticed no light illuminating the back wall. This was because I had no headlights or fogs. I opened the hood to find a rats nest of cables tucked between the fuse box and battery box.

They had recklessly torn out all my aftermarket electronics leaving my HID headlights and LED fogs disconnected, along with my (professionally installed) $100 positive battery terminal adapter that fed the fuses to my rear amps and subwoofer box, in order to replace both the OE negative and positive battery cables.

I then also noticed the sides of my bumper cover weren’t clipped in properly and wouldn’t pop back in place with pressure.

I got back into the car to check what else they botched to find no power to my armrest’s 12v ports, my radar detector was dead and my surface mounted aftermarket fog light switch was pulled from its home and smashed to bits. LOL!

Moving around to the rear to check the fuses, my rear hatch wouldn’t open. Tried unlocking all doors with the dash button, tried the hatch release on the driver’s door, tried my FOB...nothing.

Having somewhere to be that night I quickly began reassembling my front lights only to discover the relay on my expensive and totally overbuilt HID headlight wiring harness was now buzzing and clicking once the headlights were back on. I disconnected and reinstalled to make sure I had them correctly connected...same clicking. Still.

Furious at this point, and the service department now closed for the weekend, I went inside to pout.

The next morning I reconnected my rear amps without issue, then tried reconnecting my fogs but could never get them going again. Tried reconnecting my hardwired radar detector to find they had cut out my fuse tap from the kick panel fuse block...leaving a hot wire exposed.

Monday I conveniently couldn’t get in touch with my service advisor. No response to my vm, texts or email. Tuesday, same thing. Left two messages for the service manager, then a message for the gm. Nothing. Then called national Cadillac customer service to file a complaint.

It’s now a week later and I still haven’t heard back from anyone. Still no fogs, radar, power in console, front bumper cover still hanging off...and still no rear hatch.

I’ll be returning to import vehicles soon, after all the problems with my Cadi and the terrible GM ‘support’ system in general.


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I hate to say, this is typical if you bring in a car with lots of aftermarket wiring on it. They immediately fault your added wiring and equipment. Then they disconnect it or destroy it while trying to troubleshoot it, without knowing how. Dealership technicians do not know anything outside of what they routinely see in the dealership. Our dealership would tell you that we are going to disconnect it and not reconnect it.
 

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I hate to say, this is typical if you bring in a car with lots of aftermarket wiring on it. They immediately fault your added wiring and equipment. Then they disconnect it or destroy it while trying to troubleshoot it, without knowing how. Dealership technicians do not know anything outside of what they routinely see in the dealership. Our dealership would tell you that we are going to disconnect it and not reconnect it.
Thanks for the insider trading .

I get it about ‘disconnecting’ the aftermarket stuff, but not destroying it. And they should’ve at least mentioned it. I drove home in the pouring rain not knowing I had no lights on. And I still can’t open my damn hatch. Just annoying.


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interesting i have had this happen occasionally as well thanks for posting up

steve
 

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It’s unprofessional, I feel, at least. If it were an hour or so later I would’ve been caught in the dark with no front lights, but for the tiny LED parking lights. Shameless.


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I have a 2013 SRX had the cue replaced, the radio in the last two weeks. The battery was replace in January 2020 with the approved GM battery. The car will sometimes not start, wait 30 min and will start. Was at the store the other day and the minute I shut the car off I knew something was wrong, nothing stayed lit up. Tried to start it, no luck. Went into store, came out 40 min later started right up. However, no psi listing for tires, radio station went to a default station, no outside temperature listed. Battery was fully charged at 15.1. Eventually all the info returned. Dealership says its the battery but they won't replace it for warranty because my local mechanic replaced it (even though it was purchased through the dealers supply). Local mechanic swears its not the battery and he questions if the radio really needed to be replaced. Now documenting all the issues I've had with the car and want an engineer from GM to come figure out what is going on. Have replaced module for heated seats, odometer was registering over 100 when actually driving 70. The list goes on...
I've grown up with GM cars but this is ridicules!
 

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Simple issue on today's most electronic cars make crazy problems.

You have a bad connection in the battery cables, brobably under the battery. It is a common issue on these cars.

After you get it fixed, go to your settings and put it back on US instead of Metric, this are kilometers you are reading(100kh =62mph).
 

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Simple issue on today's most electronic cars make crazy problems.

You have a bad connection in the battery cables, brobably under the battery. It is a common issue on these cars.

After you get it fixed, go to your settings and put it back on US instead of Metric, this are kilometers you are reading(100kh =62mph).
Thanks will see if thats the issue.
 
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