Yes, it is me again with more bad luck. However, this is with my 2013 CTS Coupe. Finally been having no issues with this one and its been driving great. Went to the outlets to pick some things up. I came off the highway at about 70MPH and slowed down going down the off ramp but the exit was right off the off ramp and I tried to make it. Breaks locked up and I missed the turn. Went and did the U-turn. Long story short, I noticed a semi-loud (abnormal) sound towards the front right wheel area right away. It sounded like a motorcycle is revving the engine which is what I thought it was until I noticed it was my vehicle. Not crazy loud but absolutely noticeable to know something was wrong. I was going about 10MPH in the parking lot and anytime I hit the gas peddle to accelerate slightly I heard the sound. That's the only time I hear the sound is when I push the gas peddle. It is still going on right now but seems to be slightly less noisy. Any ideas as to what this could be? Something major or nothing to worry about? Any advice would be appreciated. Really hoping its nothing major but sounds odd.
2013 CTS coupe front end growl noise - assistance needed
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Yes but I am not a mechanic so not sure what to look for. Did not see anything out of the ordinary. Keep in mind I am hearing the sound when driving the vehicle. I can’t say it was coming from the wheel to be certain but definitely sounded like the front right tire area. It’s not constant by any means. Only when accelerating from a slow/almost stopped speed to going quicker. Then it’s clear and it’s only for a second or two but very obvious.
Really hoping it’s not a transmission/engine issue. I think I would hear it constantly if it was.
Also not sure if this information is helpful. Recently had a alignment done on the vehicle. When I was checking under it today after this happened, I could turn the steering wheel to the right about 3 times over again.
Yeah, you need to go back where you had your alignment done. I had mine done when I got front tires on my Coupe. The same night, there were no noises, but the car started pulling to the right, the wheel went hard right, and the traction control light came on. Took them three more tries to get it right.
I drove my car about 70 miles since the alignment was done with no issues until I locked up my breaks today cause I missed a turn and it started doing that. If it was related, I feel like it would have done that since the start. Don’t you think so? I didn’t clarify when the alignment was done so want to be transparent. I thought maybe a bad wheel bearing?
The steering wheel is straight. Wheels are straight. Steering wheel is just very easy to turn. Vehicle doesn’t pull to one side or another at all.
Is traction control and stabilitak always supposed to be on? Both of them on the entire time?
I found out stabilitrak was on when I locked up the breaks but traction control was not. I still heard the noise today. Once I turned traction control on, it was a little less noticeable. Hope I did not damage the driveline by locking up the breaks with it off. Anyone have knowledge on this? Is it supposed to be on 100% of the time?
Also have an appointment with my mechanic tomorrow.
I found out stabilitrak was on when I locked up the breaks but traction control was not. I still heard the noise today. Once I turned traction control on, it was a little less noticeable. Hope I did not damage the driveline by locking up the breaks with it off. Anyone have knowledge on this? Is it supposed to be on 100% of the time?
Also have an appointment with my mechanic tomorrow.
Don't drive with either one of them off. Both still work fine?
If you have growling/roaring that increases with speed, and gets worse on a turn, you likely have a bad wheel bearing. When you take a LEFT turn and the noise gets worse, it is likely a RIGHT wheel bearing. Reverse for opposite side.
Wheel bearings are very common on these cars, I did three. Two bad, and one failed wheel sensor tone ring. Most of our other members have done at least one.
If you have growling/roaring that increases with speed, and gets worse on a turn, you likely have a bad wheel bearing. When you take a LEFT turn and the noise gets worse, it is likely a RIGHT wheel bearing. Reverse for opposite side.
Wheel bearings are very common on these cars, I did three. Two bad, and one failed wheel sensor tone ring. Most of our other members have done at least one.
Yes both still work fine. The repair shop I just got it from had turned it off and I just noticed. So it’s best to drive with both on at all times?
The best way I can describe the sound is like your using a gas powered blower and pulling the trigger to blow. It’s only when I accelerate from low speed (in a drive through) and pull up. Sometimes it does sound in the middle of the drive randomly. No sound once 40+ MPH. Just abnormal and the car was very quiet before this occurred. In case it’s major, I want to figure out what it is.
No sound when accelerating in park. No sound when reversing quickly or slowly. Only when accelerating forward. Doesn’t sound when I turn.
Actually TCS is always off when you turn your vehicle on. I tested this. I turned TCS on, vehicle off and back on. When vehicle came back on, it was off again.
I was able to record the sound. It’s not great but you can hear it towards the end.
When I turn left, lot really any issues. When I turn right, no issues but that growl comes right away when the wheel gets straight. At least it seems that way.
Feel free to share your thoughts after you listen to it. What I am referring to is towards the end of the video. Sounds like I’m racing but I’m hardly hitting the gas.
I was able to record the sound. It’s not great but you can hear it towards the end.
When I turn left, lot really any issues. When I turn right, no issues but that growl comes right away when the wheel gets straight. At least it seems that way.
Feel free to share your thoughts after you listen to it. What I am referring to is towards the end of the video. Sounds like I’m racing but I’m hardly hitting the gas.
do you have any lights on the instrument cluster when driving normally without manually turning anything off???...Traction Control and StabiliTrak (the skidding car icon) should default to always ON unless you manually turn one, the other or both off...if they are illuminated on your instrument cluster they are OFF
how did you lock up your brakes??? does your ABS work???...is the ABS icon illuminated or off???...
good luck with your car
Bill
how did you lock up your brakes??? does your ABS work???...is the ABS icon illuminated or off???...
good luck with your car
Bill
+1 to all those questions.
Hope you resolve your issue ASAP. And just have to say it's brakes, not breaks. Breaking is what none of us want our cars to do!
Just wanted to update. I had HORRIBLE luck this morning. At this point, everything tells me to get rid of my coupe. Was at the mechanic and told it was most likely the exhaust or catalytic converter. When I was leaving the parking lot, another vehicle slammed into mine by backing into it at a fast rate of speed. Smashed into my vehicle. Time to deal with more insurance companies and more time without my vehicle.
The 2012 was mine but my sister has it now. Was trying to diagnose and resolve the issues she was experiencing.
I have the 2013.
I was hoping 2021 would be positive only. Hoping for the best from this point forward.
But yes, it’s a material item and neither of us were hurt so that’s good.
I am sure my value will now diminish once again. Only has around 65K miles now and was only offered $9K for a trade in without this accident on record.
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