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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am new and have issues with a SRX me and my wife purchased literally less than a week ago, so long story short the AC at idle when waiting in line at Starbucks I noticed the temp got weaker and weaker... I live in Louisiana and we need AC, so I am an aircraft mechanic and while not a car mechanic I still want to do thing my self etc. I have the proper tools and gauges; vacuum as well. I had a shop evacuate the system for me and brought it up to pull a vacuum and recharge the system myself. I let the vacuum run for a good hour, and left vacuum on the system for another hour and didn't see a single drop in mercury. I serviced her back myself by the amount of weight indicated on the sticker, car felt better but not good, AC compressor was kicking on as advertised and fan was coming on when the compressor cycled.

We again were waiting in traffic and the AC was just weak/ hot at this point, I said screw it and took it a service center up the road from the house. Just got the call that my compressor is supposedly bad and my evaporator.. I am skeptical as always just because money doesn't grow on trees. They quoted me $2700, I can get the parts significantly cheaper and the maintenance isn't a issue to me. My question is how do they know the evaporator is leaking? wouldn't this show up when I pulled vacuum on the system? it didn't leak down, at least didn't register on my gauges.

lets say all this does need to get replaced the one corner I won't cut is the compressor brand, have any of you had luck with a specific brand out there? Rock Auto only have a UAC brand and Four seasons their home brew and reman.

I did reach out to the seller who we bought it from, he had a lien on it so I am still waiting for the title we had a bill of sale and stuff notarized by the bank. He hasn't reached back out yet I am hoping he would be willing to help me pay for the repair, we paid 10K for it and I'm just kinda irritated not even a week later and I get quoted $2700.

Car is not overheating and fan is coming on

anyways any advice?
 

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2015 SRX Premium FWD
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694 Posts
The evap is a big job, who cares what the part costs. $2700.00 is a deal. That job would be $4000.00 at the dealer.
 

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Based on your description, that the vacuum held for at least an hour, I would check the AC compressor first if it is mine. I am not a mechanic but did you put gages on it while running? You should see the numbers to determine whether the compressor is creating suction on the low side and discharging it to the condenser, which should be damn hot and and around 200 + psi (for 134R) . There is an electronic refrigerant leak detector but it is pricy.
R134a Pressure Gauge Chart
Ambient Temperature (°F)Low SideHigh Side
80°45-50 psi175-220 psi
75°40-45 psi150-175 psi
70°35-40 psi140-165 psi
65°25-35 psi135-155 psi
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response, I did place gauges on it and serviced. It was roughly 91 degrees out, and I serviced the system by weight 2EA small cans. my pressure was at 58 low and 275-290 high, I may end up just doing the compressor, condenser and expansion valve myself.
 

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Thanks for the response, I did place gauges on it and serviced. It was roughly 91 degrees out, and I serviced the system by weight 2EA small cans. my pressure was at 58 low and 275-290 high, I may end up just doing the compressor, condenser and expansion valve myself.
That's not a bad compressor based on those pressures. Make sure the condenser is clean and the fans are all operating. A bad compressor has the pressures closer together(high will be lower and the low will be higher).
 

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Thanks for the response, I did place gauges on it and serviced. It was roughly 91 degrees out, and I serviced the system by weight 2EA small cans. my pressure was at 58 low and 275-290 high, I may end up just doing the compressor, condenser and expansion valve myself.
I am thinking expansion valve as the problem. GM had used the cycling clutch orifice tube with great success so I don't know why they went back to an expansion valve but if there is one there, they can be difficult to replace and the extra expense of the evaporator may be warranted since they are difficult to access and replace so doing both at the same time may be logical and practical, except for the cost., IMO. Good luck
 

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2012 SRX Luxury
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Meee tooo. Expansion valve is restricted. High side is way too high. Blocked flow. I would also probably purge the system with some system cleaner. Sounds like some "junk" is in there from something. Maybe the compressor self destructing possibly junk there since new (ask original owner). You'll probably have to piss around with it till it's fixed.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I got some good news today, the seller has a warranty on the car. The service center is replacing everything to include:
Expansion Valve
Compressor
Condensor
Evap
lines

Just waiting for the call now to bring it in, it would seem at this point I dodge a bullet.. a very expensive bullet.
 

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2014, Cadillac SRX, 3.6 L
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So I got some good news today, the seller has a warranty on the car. The service center is replacing everything to include:
Expansion Valve
Compressor
Condensor
Evap
lines

Just waiting for the call now to bring it in, it would seem at this point I dodge a bullet.. a very expensive bullet.
would be nice to see “the end” of subject story. Does it cool super well now (while engine is on idle) ?

the reason of asking is similar.
my SRX 2014, 3.6L total milage today 92000 km. car is riding in Dubai all her life...

basically the observed performance of AC is as next:
no experience of AC performance at ambient T < 20 deg celcius ( sorry it is desert life)
within 25-30 deg the AUTO mode still OK
above 30 deg AC to be used in manual with setting LO for driver and passenger
above 38 deg AC to be used only onrecirculation... impossible to breath otherwise
above 42 deg AC cabin fan shall run on 75% of its cooling ,speed, ... really noisy
above 46-47 deg the Cadillac AC become a torture...
IR thermometer shows +14-16 deg Celsius is a charged air to cabin ( from d.flectors)

the challenges:
AC needs minimum 3-4 min of motor running to get first sign of cooling started. Obviously inner cabin elements have about 65-70 deg temperature and to be frank first 10 min use of Cadillac in Dubai summer is a guaranteed pain...
if car is on idle run the driver and passengers may start cry immediately, ... warm air come in..
I need to keep at least 2000 rpm to see AC efficiency
magic part is a cooling fan. There is One only and it always run on one speed immediately after motor start at any circumstances ( even if AC is off)
refrigerant charge was replaced 1 year ago, no charge loses, compressor NRV are OK ( no pressure equalisation after shut off) , air side of cabin evaporator I cleaned intensively by blowing of solution windowcleaner , ... AC filter is new every 10000 km..
but since far above +45 outside Cadillac SRX AC keeps me surprised.

I guess apart from classic mechanical faults My Caddy is facing cooling fan control failure (no intensive condenser cooling and thus gas flashing before TEV) plus I do not really know if blending doors of AC climate control work precisely well....

any ideas are always welcome.
the good news is that we expect chill weather after September and 30-40 deg is easily manageable
 

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2014, Cadillac SRX, 3.6 L
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Here are results of deflectors air temperature measured after 30 min driving.
measurements were taken at parked car then.

IR thermometer takes deflector surface temperature, of course. This is Auto mode, outside air 41 deg (105 F) , setting point 24 deg (75 F), fan is running on about 60% of its nominal blowing speed.
windows apart from front are tinted 30%... black interior.

it looks nice to have 50 F charged air temperature but unfortunately feelings are still it is not enough.

next point I believe isa blend doors/ flappers position verification. Air is really cool on deflectors but despite of Blower noise the interior air doesn’t look really comfortable
 

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