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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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You need to tell us how much those added devices draw in amps or watts. For the last five years have you had any Battery or alternator problems?
My alternator failed on my 2011 CST at 80,200 miles in Sept. 2018 and I have no added electrical draw. I put the third battery in it in July, 2018. Thrid battery, being the second after the OEM.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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While I haven't paid a lot of attention to big stereo systems I do believe that most installs had a H. O. alternator.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 🙄
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While I haven't paid a lot of attention to big stereo systems I do believe that most installs had a H. O. alternator.
Correct: 140 amp alternator. RPO KG9.
 

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I dont trust AutoZone or Advance per se. A better choice is to find someone with a battery Load Tester?????
I have never seen battery voltage drop while operating unless the alternator has failed. I understand that the charging system may involve the ECM to manage the charge rate, possibly equalizing the cells on occasion. If that is the case, then the alternator itself may be fine but not externally controlled.
 

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Hey all. I've read several threads on this subject. So I'm pretty sure I know where this is heading, but I thought I'd float the specifics and see what your thoughts are.

I went for a 50 mile round trip drive today. Something I haven't done for about 2 -3 weeks. Otherwise, I make a 5-6 mile trip once a week since the Chinese Virus took over.

On the way home today, the charging System light came on and a few miles later, the Battery Saver message came up. At that point it was running at 11.4 volts. After about 10 miles and upon arrivving home it was hoovering around 11.2-11.3 volts.

I have not done any testing, except to be sure that my Mono-Sub Block Amp was turning off as it should. And it is turning off properly.

I just dropped a new battery in it in December. I doubt its that, but I've seen new batteries turn up bad after a few months, but rarely.

I also dropped a NavTool in it about a month ago, but I doubt that has anything to do with it either.

To my knowledge the charging system is all original. I bought the car 6 years with 27K on it. It now has 88K.

I think its probably the alternator.

As always, your thoughts are appreciated.
I just had the same thing happen to my 2010 cts 3.0 and took it to a cadillac dealer and they replaced both the alternator and battery. I'm a week into it and haven't had any problems yet. But if in 6 months time the same they occurs I know it was something else.
 

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2012 CTS4 Premium
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Discussion Starter #30
So, I pulled the alternator the other day and took it a local shop to diagnose it.The first thing I noticed was the pully was not engaging the shaft like it should...The pulley was spinning, but the shaft was not. Bill at the shop noticed that when I handed it to him. That was the issue after he opened it up. He ordered a new pulley/shaft and tested the rest of it and said it was all good. He said he pulled 151 amps from it. I put it back in the car today and all seems good. Not a bad $47 fix.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 🙄
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So, I pulled the alternator the other day and took it a local shop to diagnose it.The first thing I noticed was the pully was not engaging the shaft like it should...The pulley was spinning, but the shaft was not. Bill at the shop noticed that when I handed it to him. That was the issue after he opened it up. He ordered a new pulley/shaft and tested the rest of it and said it was all good. He said he pulled 151 amps from it. I put it back in the car today and all seems good. Not a bad $47 fix.
Nice fix.
Proper shaft engagement is always important.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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Looks like you didn't get shafted. That's great. I know the Caddy dealer did my 2011 under warranty and the bill was over $1,000. for a new alternator about two years ago.
 
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