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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All:

I noticed today driving back in the driveway that I had fresh oil drops on my garage floor.

Dipstick oil level is low and you can see fresh oil under the rear of the engine and the plastic pan under the engine appears to be holding oil. I am assuming it's the rear main seal. If it is the rear main seal, any idea to the cost to replace/fix? Do they have to drop the transmission?

Thoughts appreciated. Headed to shop in the morning, like to have an idea fo what to expect.

Thankx,

Pete
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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I will be following because I have the same problem with my car. Mine is an AWD. Is yours AWD or RWD?

I was quoted $1000 to replace. And yes it has to be dropped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will be following because I have the same problem with my car. Mine is an AWD. Is yours AWD or RWD?

I was quoted $1000 to replace. And yes it has to be dropped.
Mine is a RWD-- I'll keep you posted.

PS: Hoping for just a grand ---
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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Mine is a RWD-- I'll keep you posted.

PS: Hoping for just a grand ---
I would agree on your aspirations. One large would be do-able
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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1,675 Posts
This is disappointing to read. One of the benefits of the new generations of engines was supposed to be improved sealing, including O-ring style gasketing and one-piece main seals. We've already seen the timing cover on the 3.6L does not seal reliably over the long term. How many miles on the engine?
 

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Thread title says 140,000 miles.
RHR is over 170,000.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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I had my 2011 3.6 engine RWD have a rear main seal leak at 85,000 miles. 2.5 years ago. cost under extended warranty was $2,718.00
 

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2009 CTS 3.6L DI rebuilt to FE3 J55 G80 3.42:1
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I had my 2011 3.6 engine RWD have a rear main seal leak at 85,000 miles. 2.5 years ago. cost under extended warranty was $2,718.00
Sounds like you paid for the whole job after the fake price markup and warranty "discount".
 

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2011 CTS Coupe FE3, 2003 Thunderbird, Gone 2013 ATS, 02 Deville
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Yep, the wrote on the work order they resealed the oil pan. whatever that means. there was no oil pan gasket charged on the parts list. $2,615.00 labor. I do not know what the discount is to the Chrysler dealership that pays the warranty.
at the same time they changed 2 engine mounts for $600.
I paid $2,200 for the 3 yr 36K mile B to B warranty. the caddy dealership charge the Chry dealership over $11,000 in those 3 years for repairs.
 

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2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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Yep, the wrote on the work order they resealed the oil pan. whatever that means. there was no oil pan gasket charged on the parts list. $2,615.00 labor. I do not know what the discount is to the Chrysler dealership that pays the warranty.
at the same time they changed 2 engine mounts for $600.
I paid $2,200 for the 3 yr 36K mile B to B warranty. the caddy dealership charge the Chry dealership over $11,000 in those 3 years for repairs.
Yeah, you have one of those engines that has no oil pan gasket, gets a squirt of sealant instead. Just what you expect on a car that costs over $50K.

You got a good deal on the motor mounts.
 

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2009 CTS4 LLT White Tricoat
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You will not find an oil pan gasket on any modern engine by any manufacturer regardless of how much the car costs.
And when properly applied RTV is more effective at preventing leaks than gaskets.
 

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2009 SRX V6 RWD, 2011 CTS Premium Coupe
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Modern engines also have timing chains which take a shit at 130K miles.

Newer isn't better.
 

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The link you posted actually supports TONY_C's post.



Modern engines also have timing chains which take a shit at 130K miles.

Newer isn't better.
Modern engines are far more reliable than powerplants from the 'olden days'.
Fifty years ago an engine exceeding 100,000 miles without at least a partial teardown was the exception, not the norm. Remember, you own what is referred to as a High Feature V6 engine. It is a sophisticated, highly developed and engineered interference mill-- not a cam in block carbureted dinosaur.
 

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2009 CTS4 LLT White Tricoat
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What worries me the most with modern cars is not the engines. It's all the convenience features found inside the car that are sure to break at some point. Not to mention all the features controlled by the BCM. I'd rather do a timing chain then have to dismantle the dash to fix some BS Hivac issue or diagnose why the bcm won't let my door unlock or window roll up.

As far as new not being better....Guys said the same thing about fuel injection when that was new but i doubt there are many left who would rather have a carb now.
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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So.... I stopped at a local transmission shop and explained what we saw on my car. He suggested replacing the Valve cover gaskets first as they are very prone to leaking. (And I know one is leaking anyhow.)
He said that unless the PCV system was plugged that it was highly unlikely that the rear main seal is blown. he told me that he has seen many of these 3.6 engines being misdiagnosed as having a bad rear main when it was the valve cover gasket. I need to get my truck back on the road before I touch my car. (Truck needs rear end rebuilt and have it scheduled for the 24th. Once I get that back from there and the body shop to fix the hood and fender where a tree fell on it...)

So I will just be topping off the oil for the next couple weeks. I am not loosing much oil but I have a set of Felpro Gaskets and some Black RTV. Apparently you use RTV in some places when you do the valve covers.

Hoping that the $70 I just spent and a little of my time fixes the issue and saves me from spending $1000. But then again if I do end up having to have the rear main seal replaced I will have them throw on this spare drive shaft I have since my car has 170k miles on it. I will also consider in the fall doing a set of timing chains. At the same time I would upgrade to the MACE cams with fuel pump modification.

When my car is down to do the valve covers I will finally install my shocks/struts and possibly try cleaning out the coaking from the intake valves. A guy on a Camaro group used some "Simply Awesome" Degreaser... He showed a video where he pulled the intake, the spark plugs and poured this stuff into the intake. Didn't care if the valves were open or closed. Just filled up the chamber and let sit for 24 hours or so. It dissolved the build up on the valves. He then just cranked the engine by hand and let the stuff come out of the spark plug holes and run out onto the ground. He then flushed with water to get everything out. I would probably change the oil too if I did that. He showed that his intake valves were spotless and it also cleaned the carbon off the pistons as well. Not sure if I want to do that yet or not even though I bought some of the degreaser. We shall see.
 

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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
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Now that you're a Man of Leisure you can get all of this done!
 
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