Happens quite often with aftermarket remans.
2011 SRX with a low rumble, flickering dashboard, dome and headlights
Folks,
We had a couple of issues happen simultaneously which I have since repaired but wanted to share this with the group and hope it helps someone with a similar situation(s).
I have a 2011 SRX Performance with just over 200K miles. The warranty has long since expired so all repair work I have been able to complete with the SRX repair manual from emanualonline.com, youtube videos, and suggestions from this forum.
Low Rumble:
We noticed a low rumble noise coming from underneath the drivers side floor board, present through out our drive but disappeared at higher speeds. others on the forum had the same issue with the culprit being a worn front wheel hub assembly. Replacement was straight forward with a few exceptions:
1. the center wheel hub assembly nut is a 32MM socket which I had to buy special at the AutoZone
2. to remove the center nut took ALLOT of force so be prepared. To loosen the nut I used a blast of PB Blaster, breaker bar with a 3 foot attachment and a couple of hits with a hammer to the socket.
3. AutoZone still has Moog front wheel hub assemblies for just under $100.
I went ahead an replaced both since why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price, amIright?
Flickering Dashboard, Dome & Headlights:
Turned out to be a faulty alternator. Again, $160 for a remanufactured alternator from AutoZone (I use them most because of proximity). Here are some notes:
1. Save yourself the hassle and lift the the front passenger side, then remove passenger side front tire and shield. Serpentine belt becomes mostly exposed
2. the tensioner uses a 1/2 drive, I used my 1/2 in drive breaker bar and did not need to rent the serpentine removal tool
3. take a good picture or sketch out the serpentine belt as is before removal
4. repair manual has you remove the top engine bracket to remove the belt but you can twist it off from underneath and do the same if you install a new belt
5. nothing to removing the alternator, two bolts on top and one underneath that also holds a pulley, you may need an extra set of hand to help with the placement during the re-install
This forum has helped me with other issues in the past so this is my little way of giving back. I hope it helps!
Good luck!
We had a couple of issues happen simultaneously which I have since repaired but wanted to share this with the group and hope it helps someone with a similar situation(s).
I have a 2011 SRX Performance with just over 200K miles. The warranty has long since expired so all repair work I have been able to complete with the SRX repair manual from emanualonline.com, youtube videos, and suggestions from this forum.
Low Rumble:
We noticed a low rumble noise coming from underneath the drivers side floor board, present through out our drive but disappeared at higher speeds. others on the forum had the same issue with the culprit being a worn front wheel hub assembly. Replacement was straight forward with a few exceptions:
1. the center wheel hub assembly nut is a 32MM socket which I had to buy special at the AutoZone
2. to remove the center nut took ALLOT of force so be prepared. To loosen the nut I used a blast of PB Blaster, breaker bar with a 3 foot attachment and a couple of hits with a hammer to the socket.
3. AutoZone still has Moog front wheel hub assemblies for just under $100.
I went ahead an replaced both since why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price, amIright?
Flickering Dashboard, Dome & Headlights:
Turned out to be a faulty alternator. Again, $160 for a remanufactured alternator from AutoZone (I use them most because of proximity). Here are some notes:
1. Save yourself the hassle and lift the the front passenger side, then remove passenger side front tire and shield. Serpentine belt becomes mostly exposed
2. the tensioner uses a 1/2 drive, I used my 1/2 in drive breaker bar and did not need to rent the serpentine removal tool
3. take a good picture or sketch out the serpentine belt as is before removal
4. repair manual has you remove the top engine bracket to remove the belt but you can twist it off from underneath and do the same if you install a new belt
5. nothing to removing the alternator, two bolts on top and one underneath that also holds a pulley, you may need an extra set of hand to help with the placement during the re-install
This forum has helped me with other issues in the past so this is my little way of giving back. I hope it helps!
Good luck!
1 - 2 of 9 Posts
Loose ground cable or loose/bad battery cables cause 60-70% of electrical problems on modern, heavily electronic equipped cars, these days. The start of any electrical diagnosis needs to start there.
1 - 2 of 9 Posts
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