thanks for sharing
steve
steve
2011 SRX with a low rumble, flickering dashboard, dome and headlights
Folks,
We had a couple of issues happen simultaneously which I have since repaired but wanted to share this with the group and hope it helps someone with a similar situation(s).
I have a 2011 SRX Performance with just over 200K miles. The warranty has long since expired so all repair work I have been able to complete with the SRX repair manual from emanualonline.com, youtube videos, and suggestions from this forum.
Low Rumble:
We noticed a low rumble noise coming from underneath the drivers side floor board, present through out our drive but disappeared at higher speeds. others on the forum had the same issue with the culprit being a worn front wheel hub assembly. Replacement was straight forward with a few exceptions:
1. the center wheel hub assembly nut is a 32MM socket which I had to buy special at the AutoZone
2. to remove the center nut took ALLOT of force so be prepared. To loosen the nut I used a blast of PB Blaster, breaker bar with a 3 foot attachment and a couple of hits with a hammer to the socket.
3. AutoZone still has Moog front wheel hub assemblies for just under $100.
I went ahead an replaced both since why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price, amIright?
Flickering Dashboard, Dome & Headlights:
Turned out to be a faulty alternator. Again, $160 for a remanufactured alternator from AutoZone (I use them most because of proximity). Here are some notes:
1. Save yourself the hassle and lift the the front passenger side, then remove passenger side front tire and shield. Serpentine belt becomes mostly exposed
2. the tensioner uses a 1/2 drive, I used my 1/2 in drive breaker bar and did not need to rent the serpentine removal tool
3. take a good picture or sketch out the serpentine belt as is before removal
4. repair manual has you remove the top engine bracket to remove the belt but you can twist it off from underneath and do the same if you install a new belt
5. nothing to removing the alternator, two bolts on top and one underneath that also holds a pulley, you may need an extra set of hand to help with the placement during the re-install
This forum has helped me with other issues in the past so this is my little way of giving back. I hope it helps!
Good luck!
We had a couple of issues happen simultaneously which I have since repaired but wanted to share this with the group and hope it helps someone with a similar situation(s).
I have a 2011 SRX Performance with just over 200K miles. The warranty has long since expired so all repair work I have been able to complete with the SRX repair manual from emanualonline.com, youtube videos, and suggestions from this forum.
Low Rumble:
We noticed a low rumble noise coming from underneath the drivers side floor board, present through out our drive but disappeared at higher speeds. others on the forum had the same issue with the culprit being a worn front wheel hub assembly. Replacement was straight forward with a few exceptions:
1. the center wheel hub assembly nut is a 32MM socket which I had to buy special at the AutoZone
2. to remove the center nut took ALLOT of force so be prepared. To loosen the nut I used a blast of PB Blaster, breaker bar with a 3 foot attachment and a couple of hits with a hammer to the socket.
3. AutoZone still has Moog front wheel hub assemblies for just under $100.
I went ahead an replaced both since why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price, amIright?
Flickering Dashboard, Dome & Headlights:
Turned out to be a faulty alternator. Again, $160 for a remanufactured alternator from AutoZone (I use them most because of proximity). Here are some notes:
1. Save yourself the hassle and lift the the front passenger side, then remove passenger side front tire and shield. Serpentine belt becomes mostly exposed
2. the tensioner uses a 1/2 drive, I used my 1/2 in drive breaker bar and did not need to rent the serpentine removal tool
3. take a good picture or sketch out the serpentine belt as is before removal
4. repair manual has you remove the top engine bracket to remove the belt but you can twist it off from underneath and do the same if you install a new belt
5. nothing to removing the alternator, two bolts on top and one underneath that also holds a pulley, you may need an extra set of hand to help with the placement during the re-install
This forum has helped me with other issues in the past so this is my little way of giving back. I hope it helps!
Good luck!
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
UPDATE
If you are going to replace the alternator, go ahead spend a little extra cash and buy a brand new one from either the dealer or an AC Delco or the Duralast Gold. In my last post I wrote on how I replaced the OEM with a remanufactured one from Autozone. SPOILER ALERT The remanufactured alternator failed after 5 months of use. Not a big deal but it is a major pain in the @** to replace. Just my 2 cents
If you are going to replace the alternator, go ahead spend a little extra cash and buy a brand new one from either the dealer or an AC Delco or the Duralast Gold. In my last post I wrote on how I replaced the OEM with a remanufactured one from Autozone. SPOILER ALERT The remanufactured alternator failed after 5 months of use. Not a big deal but it is a major pain in the @** to replace. Just my 2 cents
Happens quite often with aftermarket remans.UPDATE
If you are going to replace the alternator, go ahead spend a little extra cash and buy a brand new one from either the dealer or an AC Delco or the Duralast Gold. In my last post I wrote on how I replaced the OEM with a remanufactured one from Autozone. SPOILER ALERT The remanufactured alternator failed after 5 months of use. Not a big deal but it is a major pain in the @** to replace. Just my 2 cents
Not all of them. Our reman alternator from Auto Zone is still going strong 4 almost 5 years later.
Update #2
So I may have to eat a little crow regarding the AZ reman alternator (which ultimately was not the main issue). After installing a new AC Delco alternator, my SRX ran fine for a total of 30 minutes and then the flickering got worse with new symptoms! Anytime I used the blinker switch or power window controls some of the dashboard service lights would cycle on and then off. I ended up taking it to our local Cadillac dealership for a proper diagnosis.
DLC Battery Voltage fuse was blown. Once it was replaced the SRX reported two additional codes: B1517 5A (Battery Voltage Low/High Voltage) & C0800 07 (Control Module Power Circuit).
The tech then ran a voltage drop test on the battery cables and found the negative cable was not providing enough resistance (max range 200mV, actual 500 mV) and was hot to touch. I had both positive and negative battery cables replaced and have had no issues since. A little pricey but worth it considering this being my wife's car and I would hate for anything to happen to her on the road because I wanted to save a few dollars.
Anyway, I hope this helps.
So I may have to eat a little crow regarding the AZ reman alternator (which ultimately was not the main issue). After installing a new AC Delco alternator, my SRX ran fine for a total of 30 minutes and then the flickering got worse with new symptoms! Anytime I used the blinker switch or power window controls some of the dashboard service lights would cycle on and then off. I ended up taking it to our local Cadillac dealership for a proper diagnosis.
DLC Battery Voltage fuse was blown. Once it was replaced the SRX reported two additional codes: B1517 5A (Battery Voltage Low/High Voltage) & C0800 07 (Control Module Power Circuit).
The tech then ran a voltage drop test on the battery cables and found the negative cable was not providing enough resistance (max range 200mV, actual 500 mV) and was hot to touch. I had both positive and negative battery cables replaced and have had no issues since. A little pricey but worth it considering this being my wife's car and I would hate for anything to happen to her on the road because I wanted to save a few dollars.
Anyway, I hope this helps.
Loose ground cable or loose/bad battery cables cause 60-70% of electrical problems on modern, heavily electronic equipped cars, these days. The start of any electrical diagnosis needs to start there.
This is a very helpful thread IMO. Seems we are all destined to suffer this type of glitch. Reading about it beforehand helps immensely when our own day comes. I tell you what, when I need a new battery I'm going to go over those cables carefully. I'm starting to think replacing them should be part of routine maintenance?
Agreed. I read about this issue here before I needed my first battery. Checked them all while installing the new batt. Cables were good and connections were tight. Checked them again when I did my headlights.This is a very helpful thread IMO. Seems we are all destined to suffer this type of glitch. Reading about it beforehand helps immensely when our own day comes. I tell you what, when I need a new battery I'm going to go over those cables carefully. I'm starting to think replacing them should be part of routine maintenance?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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