2011 Cadillac CTS......Wouldn't crank.......tried to charge batter overnight.......no go.........bought new battery..........installed......still no go......you can hear the starter motor, but the engine doesn't crank. I live in a very small town and no way I can afford to have it towed.
2011 CTS...new battery, still won't start
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'10 CTS4 3.6L Wagon prem; '06 STS 3.6L base; '98 Seville STS
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'14 CTS-V LongRoof; Audi RS6 Avant; '16 ATS-V Sedan gone; '10 CTS LongRoof gone
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Brand new batteries have been known to be defective. My gut doesn't believe that is your issue, however. Does your starter engage with the engine? Does your starter turn your engine over but the engine does not start? Have you had any issues in the last couple of weeks?
Check all of your high amp fuses, particularly the ones under the hood. I'm not sure on the CTS as I've never checked, but many cars have a main fuse that's 100 amps or more in rating that sometimes fails, particularly when the car is being jumped and sometimes in conjunction with an alternator failure. I have also seen it happen when someone connected up their new battery backwards.
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I could use some help, I changed the battery in my 2011 CTS, thought I followed the steps right from the book, put the new battery in and turned the ignition on without turning on the car and let it sit for 3 minutes through all the ticking while everything reset, and then turned on fine all the windows worked fine and idled fine, drove It around the block fine, but next day started getting misfires and check engine light. Should i take the battery off and try it again do I have to reset anything? Could really use the help
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Thank you brother! I thought I seriously screwed something up, this is my first somewhat modern car, in my older ones I would just touch the battery terminals together without the battery to reset the computer but those had maybe one or 2 chips vs this one that I'm sure has a processor for every function. I've seen w conflicting reports on changing them, one said let the car run idle for 3 minutes then check all the windows, the book said turn the ignition on with out the engine and let it sit for at least 30 seconds so I went with the book.
Why I will not have a car made after 2014. OTOH the distance at which my fobs work keeps dropping even right after running. "Key not detected". Trunk is not automagic but opens if I push the button AGM is approaching 4 years old. Ideas ?
the guys here talked me off the edge after I removed my car from the Battery Tender Plus and received a misfire code from my BlueDriver scanner...after I went through the usual suspects trying to diagnose and finding no issues I rescanned with my BlueDriver and found all was okay...chalked it up to what TheFlash points to and my CTS Sport Wagon has been fine for months since...
Bill
2014 ATS 3.6 Premium RWD, 2016 Corvette Z06, 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel
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It sounds like you did the throttle relearn procedure properly but try it again just in case because replacing a battery and not following up with the relearn will often result in a CEL and poor engine performance.
It is critical to give it the entire three minutes with the ignition in the on position without starting. Then make sure you tap the button again to turn it off before you do a regular start and then drive it for a few minutes.
Rodger
It is critical to give it the entire three minutes with the ignition in the on position without starting. Then make sure you tap the button again to turn it off before you do a regular start and then drive it for a few minutes.
Rodger
Most cars need to relearn idle settings after loss of battery power. Some will stall immediately after initial startup if a power source is not used to maintain computer memory during a battery change, or a pause is not given after ignition on, before cranking. After a good bit of wear and tear is put on the parts, compensatory adjustments are made by the computer to maintain efficient performance characteristics.
When battery power is lost, those calibration adjustments are lost and the PCM defaults to baseline settings which are usually no longer accurate for moderate to high mileage injectors, throttle body, MAF sensor and a generally dirty intake path and valves. All of that affects airflow and fuel needs relative to baseline tune specs which remain at new engine settings.
DI motors are especially sensitive to small air/fuel irregularities and will pop and stutter at startup until they are corrected and the data stored for long term use. This is why I often suggest checking long term fuel trims (LTFT) for engine light problems that appear fuel related. If your fuel supply is constantly on the rich, or lean side, the PCM will adjust baseline LTFT -/+ respectively to offset it and short term fuel trim (STFT) will continue to change rapidly for typical minor fuel variations.
Throttle relearn before startup will not correct the effects of system power disconnect, the PCM must first see the discrepancies and then make adjustments.
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