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2010 SRX 3.0 Transmission Fluid Change

28K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  WILLY92 
#1 ·
First, I apologize if i missed a previous thread, every one I read was confusing.

1. What is the interval to change the transmission fluid?
2. Is it worth doing yourself? I have read that it is a bit difficult.
3. Anyone know how much it would be for a 3rd party to do it?

If you do a drain and fill, do you not replace the filter?
 
#3 ·
Drain and fill is easy. Plug is on the bottom. Exactly 5 Quarts will drain ( assuming you were filled to the correct capacity to start with.. You will not get it all out, but 5 is better then none. I did 2 drain and refill ( 4 months apart ) , search the posts. If I find the link I will post it. You cannot get to any filter unfortunately, its internal in the transmission and is NOT accessible. My fluid was extremely dark at 20K. Literally will take you 20 min to do the partial drain and fill easier and cleaner than an oil change.
 
#6 ·
Nothing wrong with a transmission fluid flush. Most transmission flush machines don’t really flush or power flush, they just hook up to the transmission cooler lines and let the transmission’s pump change or exchange out the old fluid and simultaneously pump in new fluid. In the end, you end up changing more fluid out, including what is trapped inside the torque converter.


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#7 ·
Never let a dealer "flush" a transmission.
Can you give us a reference as to why "never flush"?
Nothing wrong with a transmission fluid flush. Most transmission flush machines don’t really flush or power flush, they just hook up to the transmission cooler lines and let the transmission’s pump change or exchange out the old fluid and simultaneously pump in new fluid. In the end, you end up changing more fluid out, including what is trapped inside the torque converter.
Agree, X2; a flush will insure all the old fluid is removed and replaced with new. I've done them for fifty years and never been given any valid reason for not doing a complete fluid exchange.

jack vines
 
#15 ·
My 2010 SRX 3.0 has 106000 miles on it and recently the last 9 months started with shifting problems. Going into 2nd gear and then abruptly dropping back down to 1st. Was told by a local transmission shop ( beware of some of these guys ) that I needed a new transmission control module. This would cost me $1900 dollars. Problem is once the tranny warms up the shifting problem goes away! Takes about 5 minutes to reach operating temp. SO I decide to drain and fill with fresh fluid. Did this twice one month apart. Shifting problem GONE! Point is a $30 drain and fill solved my problem and saved me $1870 dollars. Won't work for everyone I know but this tranny shop could have suggested the same but like used car dealers not always so honest.
 
#18 ·
I'm planning to do mine soon. I'm an Amsoil Preferred customer and I change all my oils to synthetic soon after purchasing a used vehicle. I'll be changing trans fluid(100%), power steering fluid, engine oil and brake fluid.

I did it on my 2003 Silverado when I bought it used in 2007 w/160,000 miles. Now getting replaced by the SRX and now has 265,000...no repairs except brakes and electrical stuff.

Just something to consider.
 
#20 ·
Try telling my OCD that.... Same with Oil.... Dark is particles... I appreciate the feedback and more than likely you are correct. That's what's great about these forums. But my OCD and I get along just fine after it looks nice and sparkly clean... Before every oil change, I dump in Snake Oil ( Sea Foam ) let her idle for 15 min. then do the drain and fill, heck I put the plug back in, wait additional 20 minutes, you will be amazed at how much more oil (dirty) drains out. Then I have some open unused oil, grade doesn't matter, I pour in a bit of it and wait till I see it come out of the Oil Pan drain hole, then she is ready for final fill. My OCD tells me that the tiny little oil valley's and orifices are free from varnish. When I look down the filler neck of any of my cars / vans it is pristine, no yellow or brown varnish look. Again, overkill and is more of a personal choice. Statistically I will probably not have the car long enough for all of the extra attention I give it and statistically the next person that owns it could care less.
But that's just me.
When I was a kid, my friend would change the oil in his GTO by opening the drain plug and letting the engine run until no more oil came out.:suspense: The engine survived.
 
#24 ·
No. I do have a lot of experience with a lot of car things after 50 years in the business. I just try to give you all what I have and use myself. I am an ex-racer and currently an Amsoil dealer. I personally have tested many fluids and oils over the years and have access to a lot of info.

You don't have to believe if you don't want too.
 
#25 ·
Not sure why I'm weighing in on this, but I've owned nearly 100 cars, mostly GMs. All I've ever been concerned with is regular oil changes. No brake flushes, no trans flushes, been years since I flushed a cooling system. Although I recognize that these newer cars are more complex, the statement that fluids only last 5 years can't be correct. Not saying it's not a good idea to do this stuff, but you probably shouldn't lose sleep over it. That said, I'm happy that this was all done to my SRX right before I bought it. I won't be doing any of it again however unless there is a problem. If long term ownership is your goal though, in this guy's opinion, take it to the dealer and write a check. I mean how much we talking here? A few hundred bucks?
 
#26 ·
Just ask yourself, why does GM tell you to change your coolant at 5yrs/150,000 miles, or what happens to fluids over time? Anyway, don't worry about it, I'm just trying to help. I do service and repair cars for a living, at a dealer.

Since you've had nearly 100 cars, that means you don't keep them very long. I don't think that I've had more than 20, so I seldom keep my cars less than 10 years, unless I didn't like it. I'm currently on my last 2 vehicles for the wife and me, a 2014 and a '15. I Plan to keep them until 1 of us dies first, and I have no extended warranty, so good maintenance is key for me.
 
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