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Discussion Starter #1

Thanks for having me I have a 2009 Cadillac STS my problem is the cluster has no lights no nothing. Cause I believe was the battery was changed out and the cables where crossed up. When I noticed what had been done removed and swapped to the correct position. So I tried to start the car and no lights on the cluster? Checked fuses and under the passenger side back seat 10amp fuse blown marked RDO/ONSTAR I replaced it also found under driver back seat a 30amp fuse was blown marked AMP replaced. Now I get the green light on the start button but pressing brake pedal trying to start no message about the FOB or lights at all are present. If someone can help I would greatly appreciate it thanks again.
 

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Without seeing wiring drawing for that vehicle, can only do some guessing

You need to check where there are fuse links, they supply main voltages to other controllers

Also look for where main fuses are that supply voltage to controllers

Possible some relay(s) were effected, try a swap one that looks like used for PCM, BCM, IPC (dash) and swap with another relay used for lessor functions and see if that changes anything
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the information I will try your suggestions and I’ll get back with you soon as possible thanks again . Is their a place to download free diagram for this car?
 

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2006 STS V8 AWD, '95 Ford Ranger
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It's going to take a miracle to get this thing running again. I can't imagine there being anything electronic in the car that hasn't been zapped one way or another.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you check the fuses
Here is all the fuses and relays
https://fuse-box.info/cadillac/cadillac-sts-2005-2011-fuses-and-relays
or :

https://www.autogenius.info/cadillac-sts-2008-2009-fuse-box-diagram/

Check also

ECM/TCM IGNECM, TCM, Instrument Panel Cluster

EKM/I/P MDLEasy Key Module (EKM), Instrument Panel Module (I/P MDL)
This is good stuff yes I checked all the fuses in all three panels. All are good didn’t know how to check the relays? I’ll start back on it after work tomorrow I’ll let you know where I’m at. Thank you for your help be in touch.
 

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You need to see if there is any fuseable links,

Normally they could look like a wire but have a link in it and blows when major voltage shorts
or is in fuse panel is thin metal that melts on shorts, you need to see if your vehicle has them and where

Most relays uses are the same type and marked on the top or sides, then one you might suspect could be swapped
with another one of same type.

Also check if battery was drained and needs to be charged back up
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put the battery on charge last night so I’ll have a fresh battery. I understand that about the relays I’ll swap them see if anything changes. Looking for a drawing that shows the fuse able links and maybe their location. Thanks man for all your time and help after work I’ll work on this new stuff and let you know. Thanks again
 

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Starter relay would be the first thing I'd look at if you're not getting anything when pressing start. It's in the fuse block under the hood on the passenger side.
 

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Your Welcome Adams76

How about finding where the battery voltage goes to the other controllers, and with a voltage meter check there,
maybe a junction by fuse panel in engine bay
Could be the fuse link(s) are at that point ?
 

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2006 STS4 4.6L
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Is there any way you guys think it could have fried the voltage regulator? My first thought would be no, but I've seen stranger things happen. Obviously the alternator wasn't running, but if there isn't any protection between the voltage regulator and the battery then maybe it could have got fried. All that said, I would think it could handle the surge of electricity from crossed battery cables.
How the hell did they get crossed in the first place?
 

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His vehicle does have a fuse link, I see it on parts list but do not know where it is located
but it's purpose is to protect reversing the battery poles and should blow first and why I think that is first place to
check out.

It has to be somewhere close to battery and main voltage bus supplying voltage to other controllers and sensors
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The old battery and new battery posts had different orientation. Not paying attention when they where put back on the new battery. No excuse but that’s what happened.
 

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That's rough bro, hopefully you get it all sorted out without too much of a nightmare.
In reality that could be similar damage to a flood car, probably not quite as much damage but trying to track everything down which has been fried could be a quite tedious.
IMO

I would be checking through each fuse (at least for all essential components), starting with the ones ZR-1 pointed out, gradually working through each fuse box. I know that sounds like a lot of work, but if your fuses did protect at least the major components then the work might be worth it.
 

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Fuses of like design below can be measured for + 12 volts by the little metal tips exposed on top as shown
So do not even have to pull the fuses to test/ check with either a volt meter (black top ground), or volt probe

Else have to pull out and see if center is good or melted open or using a OHM meter.

Some fuses maybe switched off so test key on, engine off

575275
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes I checked all fuses in engine compartment and under passenger and driver back seats. All checked out good. Still no lights on the cluster. Open the driver door interior lights come on green light is on for push button for start. Blinkers running lights and break lights working. Press the break and attempt the start the car no response from the starter. No indication on the cluster where it would tell you to press break to start. Or if it doesn’t recognize the key Fob it would give you the message. Cluster is just dead. Still working with relays no change this far. Thanks for all your help if you think of anything else please let me know it will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Now I wanted to ask before I tried this the fuse box in the engine compartment once you remove the cover. It looks like the unit will come apart by half by pulling a few tabs back so that the small plastic catch on the outside of the box will clear and slide by? Like theirs a lower level is this true?
 
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