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2002 Deville and 2009 DTS
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Discussion Starter #1
How hard is it to replace the waterpump on a 2009 DTS?

Cadillac place said $500 last week. When I double checked, now they say $900.

I see Murry Waterpump is $100 (at O'Rielys), then $50 for crossover gaskets.
Is it worth doing it myself to save about $800?

I have changed alternators, starters, waterpumps on a 2002 Deville.
and the camshaft cover gaskets on a 2009.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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69,052 Posts
Does this have anything to do with your 100,000 mile "Fix it if it ain't broke" thread?

If the w/p is leaking or noisy, buy the parts, coolant and distilled water, set up your tools in a warm shop and give yourself 3/4 of a day for the job.

Never heard of "Murry" water pumps.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,2009,dts,4.6l+v8,1442768,cooling+system

Pumps - Gates, Airtex; gasket sets - Mahle, Fel-Pro
 

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2002 Deville and 2009 DTS
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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, I have 4 cars that I want to do preventive maintenance. ( 270,000 , 230,000, 220,000 and a 100,000 mile car)

Decided at the last minute to take the car in and let them do it. I will swap out the alternator myself later.
and do the other cars this Spring...
 

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2009 Cadillac DTS
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I just changed my water pump after watching several uTube videos on it and studying the Cadillac manual service procedure. The difficult part is the 8 bolts (2 per gasket) that hold the crossover. At least 4 of them are a bitch to see and/or to get to. I had to use an open-end wrench and could go only a 1/12th of a turn at a time before I had to turn the wrench over. Then when you reinstall the crossover, some of the bolts have to be in their holes and the gaskets hanging on them. The gaskets tend to drop off as you finagle the crossover back into position. Then getting the bolts hand started can be a bear. Outside of that, I found the rest pretty straight forward. Good luck.
 

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2002 Deville and 2009 DTS
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Discussion Starter #5
I guess I made the right decision... I took it in to have it done.

I just got over changing both camshaft covers and not in the mood for tight fits for a while!
 

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08 STS-4 N* 1SG, 08 DTS Luxury II, 04 Bonneville GXP N*
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You would have been wise to have them change the alternator at the same time. As I recall, you need to drain the cooling system and remove the radiator and fans to get it in/out.
 

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You would have been wise to have them change the alternator at the same time. As I recall, you need to drain the cooling system and remove the radiator and fans to get it in/out.
You do not need to drain and remove the radiator for alternator replacement, only the fans, which are not that difficult.
 

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08 STS-4 N* 1SG, 08 DTS Luxury II, 04 Bonneville GXP N*
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You do not need to drain and remove the radiator for alternator replacement, only the fans, which are not that difficult.
This would be good news. As mentioned in the other thread, this is what the GM service documentation claims. Never had to do it, and I hope my alternator doesn't fail.
 

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2002 Deville and 2009 DTS
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Discussion Starter #10
REALLY ? The factory service manual I have says to remove tiebar, fans, and radiator.

When I removed the radiator hose (when changing the camshaft cover), I could see the alternator.
 

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08 STS-4 N* 1SG, 08 DTS Luxury II, 04 Bonneville GXP N*
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REALLY ? The factory service manual I have says to remove tiebar, fans, and radiator.

When I removed the radiator hose (when changing the camshaft cover), I could see the alternator.
I use GM's electronic Service Information. When you go to the section to remove the radiator, it further directs to remove the fan shroud assembly. When you follow the procedure to do this, it directs you to remove the AC condenser, upper tie bar and front air deflector. So... Yes, Really. It says this. Apparently, based on another forum member having done this, GM instructs you to follow more steps than is actually required.
 

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With the fans and tie bar removed, there is plenty of room to access the alternator. The factory service manuals often include extra steps, such as removing front end to change headlights. Many manufactures do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, so bottom line... I can remove the fans and the radiator hose only?

and I can remove the alternator?

I don't mind tight fits in this kind of situation. The kind I don't like is the kind where you have to feel your way around like the rear camshaft covers.
 

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OK, so bottom line... I can remove the fans and the radiator hose only?

and I can remove the alternator?

I don't mind tight fits in this kind of situation. The kind I don't like is the kind where you have to feel your way around like the rear camshaft covers.
Yes, and also remove the radiator support (which is easy) which then adds tons of room.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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I just changed my water pump after watching several uTube videos on it and studying the Cadillac manual service procedure. The difficult part is the 8 bolts (2 per gasket) that hold the crossover. At least 4 of them are a bitch to see and/or to get to. I had to use an open-end wrench and could go only a 1/12th of a turn at a time before I had to turn the wrench over. Then when you reinstall the crossover, some of the bolts have to be in their holes and the gaskets hanging on them. The gaskets tend to drop off as you finagle the crossover back into position. Then getting the bolts hand started can be a bear. Outside of that, I found the rest pretty straight forward. Good luck.
Put the bolts in the manifold and hang the gaskets in place. Then take rubber bands and place them across the ends of each protruding bolt pair. The gaskets can't fall off and you can slide the bolts as needed to get everything down in behind the transmission housing. Start the bolts, cut the rubber bands and remove before tightening the bolts. Helps a lot!!!
 

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I just did mine yesterday so I thought I would share what I found... So first of all I didn't experience any total failures but the water pump pulley system was starting to make some noise and the car did get warm one day after a short drive. Pretty sure the thermostat was stuck shut. So I went into this with an exploratory mindset. Found the belt was stretched, tensioner pulley was worn out, the water neck rusted and the combo of rust/paint had made a nice little mess of the thermostat (which was sticking) you can see where its worn from getting stuck also most of the rubber parts had warped or completely disintegrated. So then after fussing with those damn bolts on the lower part of the crossover we found that the water pump was also disintegrating(the rubber parts melted). So that was wobbly and had a sticky spot when rotating. The crossover gaskets were also pretty bad and some pieces of them had broken off into the holes.

So we did drain the whole system and replace everything and fill her up with clean coolant and now she's happy. Will definitely drain and fill regularly after this! Also checked my Intake manifold bolts while I was at it (Thanks to a thread on here.) and found those were extremely loose and a few were borderline falling out.
I gotta say even though the car is so hard to work on I still love it! Can't beat a Caddy.
Took pictures of all the failed parts if anyone is curious...
 

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2008 DTS
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I use GM's electronic Service Information. When you go to the section to remove the radiator, it further directs to remove the fan shroud assembly. When you follow the procedure to do this, it directs you to remove the AC condenser, upper tie bar and front air deflector. So... Yes, Really. It says this. Apparently, based on another forum member having done this, GM instructs you to follow more steps than is actually required.
My mechanic says Manufacturers include extra steps to justify high labor charges. They don't really remove all that stuff, but they charge according to the manual. I'm no mechanic so don't know if that's true or not...
 

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I just did mine yesterday so I thought I would share what I found... So first of all I didn't experience any total failures but the water pump pulley system was starting to make some noise and the car did get warm one day after a short drive. Pretty sure the thermostat was stuck shut. So I went into this with an exploratory mindset. Found the belt was stretched, tensioner pulley was worn out, the water neck rusted and the combo of rust/paint had made a nice little mess of the thermostat (which was sticking) you can see where its worn from getting stuck also most of the rubber parts had warped or completely disintegrated. So then after fussing with those damn bolts on the lower part of the crossover we found that the water pump was also disintegrating(the rubber parts melted). So that was wobbly and had a sticky spot when rotating. The crossover gaskets were also pretty bad and some pieces of them had broken off into the holes.

So we did drain the whole system and replace everything and fill her up with clean coolant and now she's happy. Will definitely drain and fill regularly after this! Also checked my Intake manifold bolts while I was at it (Thanks to a thread on here.) and found those were extremely loose and a few were borderline falling out.
I gotta say even though the car is so hard to work on I still love it! Can't beat a Caddy.
Took pictures of all the failed parts if anyone is curious...

I have a 2011 dts platinum and I have a coolant leak. I scoped it to the water pump. I watched numerous videos and have been working on my cars for years due to poor workmanship from dealers and shops I've used. I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor which took a day but I new it was done correctly and nothing was damaged. So I'm ready to tackle the water pump, thermostat, etc. I would appreciate any info you could pass on, pictures, etc. & if you had to do again would you take it in?

Thanks for any info you can provide!
 

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2011 dts premium
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I have a 2011 dts platinum and I have a coolant leak. I scoped it to the water pump. I watched numerous videos and have been working on my cars for years due to poor workmanship from dealers and shops I've used. I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor which took a day but I new it was done correctly and nothing was damaged. So I'm ready to tackle the water pump, thermostat, etc. I would appreciate any info you could pass on, pictures, etc. & if you had to do again would you take it in?

Thanks for any info you can provide!
The waterpump housing that cross over will be the hardest part simply because of all the lines and engine parts that will have to removed.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
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