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08 CTS none DI 3.6
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Discussion Starter #1
Wasn't sure where to post this so I'll start here. Long story shortened the motor has to be replaced on the 08 CTS I just acquired. I'm planning on pulling it from the top as I do not have access to a lift. I'm definitely not an expert but have pulled enough motors to feel confident that I can do this but it's going to be an adventure. Anyone that has done this before and reads this please feel free to pipe up and let me know what to watch out for.
 

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Post more detail. What engine? What's wrong with the motor requiring replacement? Yes it can be pulled from the top and if I can find the link on it I'll be back to post it.
 

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Here it is, it's for the AWD platform, but that shouldn't be an issue at all if you have RWD which should be easier because of the additional free space underneath;



This link is from the forum but the pictures I could have sworn it had are now missing;


Although I would probably pull the engine and trans together in order to rebuild them both due to mileage and if the engine failure was overheat related, it looks like the most challenging part would be if you were to remove the motor and leave the transmission in place, in regards to accessing the 6 torque converter bolts for removal.

There are special tools available for some processes such as that, but their cost relative to their size and what they do borders on insulting, at least for me.
 

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08 CTS none DI 3.6
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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you very much for the info. Here's the issue. Traded for the car knowing it had a spun rod bearing. After the car was dropped off I moved the car 20 feet to the carport and there was a solid clunk and the motor immediately stopped running and is now locked up. No fluids under the car and no warning lights or codes. The car has 80k on it and I actually test drove it as the rod knock was slight and only started when the car warmed up.
 

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08 CTS none DI 3.6
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Discussion Starter #5
The engine is the 3.6 and the 8th vin is 7 to me the car is worth putting a new motor in as inside and out the car is immaculate and had no other issues. Single owner, little old lady so not driven hard, also why the low miles.
 

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Thank you very much for the info. Here's the issue. Traded for the car knowing it had a spun rod bearing. After the car was dropped off I moved the car 20 feet to the carport and there was a solid clunk and the motor immediately stopped running and is now locked up. No fluids under the car and no warning lights or codes. The car has 80k on it and I actually test drove it as the rod knock was slight and only started when the car warmed up.
That's highly unusual, sounds like the codes were cleared at some point and the motor has not run long enough for the codes to set. There's probably a pending code which does not set an engine light during that phase. If this is the LY7 non direct injected motor, there may be a chance the knock was timing chain related instead of bearing related unless you have very good experience with the sound of a rod knock and are sure that's what it is.

Pull the valve covers first and look at the timing chains if you're not sure, although a chain failure that locks the motor has also probably damaged something up front. It has been said with some insistence elsewhere on the net that the LY7 motor is non interference and that severe timing chain related damage is from chain failure carnage beneath the timing cover.

A broken connecting rod shouldn't lock up the motor in both directions, but I can see bound timing chains following a failure doing that.
 

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These cars in good condition are definitely keepers and restorers in my opinion as well. Car owners these days are so well conditioned to judge a car's worth by its book value that many will take on a new car note and insurance premium increase, over a $2-3k likely once in the cars life time repair, in exchange for another 100k miles service, or more. This makes many a good deal available to those who can do the repair work themselves for a fraction of the cost.

We're all different. Cars don't mean what they use to anymore to me so I try not to invest too much in them. It only takes a second for someone to knock one out from under a driver and give him/her a lesson in insurance value, no matter how good a shape it was in before the collision.

The prices on the 3.6l motors are not cheap, even with ridiculously high mileage so be sure to weigh the cost of a rebuild against buying a used runner unless you intend to purchase a remanufactured motor. Just make sure the replacement motor is tip top.
 

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2011 CTS Coupe Premium
Orlando - We take orphans
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The Vin 7 makes it a LY7 which has quite a number of variants used mainly by Buick/Cadillac/Chevrolet/Pontiac/Saturn/Holden & even Suzuki.. You probably have the 2008–2009 Cadillac CTS 263 hp @ 6200 rpm 253 lb⋅ft @ 3100 rpm with variable valve timing on inlet and exhaust & sequential fuel injection (not DI). With the right tools an engine swap is not hard but the sensors/injection must match the Caddy PCM.

From your description I'd pull the pan first, I've heard of rod bolts unscrewing themselves before.

ps cars I like are kept for decades. I like the coupe.
 

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The Vin 7 makes it a LY7 which has quite a number of variants used mainly by Buick/Cadillac/Chevrolet/Pontiac/Saturn/Holden & even Suzuki.. You probably have the 2008–2009 Cadillac CTS 263 hp @ 6200 rpm 253 lb⋅ft @ 3100 rpm with variable valve timing on inlet and exhaust & sequential fuel injection (not DI). With the right tools an engine swap is not hard but the sensors/injection must match the Caddy PCM.

From your description I'd pull the pan first, I've heard of rod bolts unscrewing themselves before.
That's too much work. The valve covers will come off much easier and if the chains are intact and not binding, a rod problem can be assumed and the motor would have to come out regardless, because there's almost no way the crankshaft wasn't damaged in the process, especially if a rod bolt backed out.

What's your repair experience level Sighman and what does the oil level dipstick say?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've just gotten what I think is great news. $3300 for a rebuilt, they will pull and install! 3 year warranty...time for me to put back together what I've started taking off! My experience level is ok, I've pulled motors often enough that this project doesn't scare me. My thoughts are that the rod bearing has spun and the metal in the oil has caused a main to lock up. I was about to drop the oil pan and take a look when I got the call from the shop. They state that reflashing the motor to the pcm is included so that's one thing I won't have to deal with. I traded the car for an old jeep I had and hadn't driven for over a year so putting 3300 into it doesn't bother me too much.
 

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I've just gotten what I think is great news. $3300 for a rebuilt, they will pull and install! 3 year warranty...time for me to put back together what I've started taking off! My experience level is ok, I've pulled motors often enough that this project doesn't scare me. My thoughts are that the rod bearing has spun and the metal in the oil has caused a main to lock up. I was about to drop the oil pan and take a look when I got the call from the shop. They state that reflashing the motor to the pcm is included so that's one thing I won't have to deal with. I traded the car for an old jeep I had and hadn't driven for over a year so putting 3300 into it doesn't bother me too much.
With the mention of "reflash included", dig a little deeper into what you're getting. There is no reflash necessary if you're replacing the motor with an identical. They only need to plug it into your current PCM. Sounds like a salvaged motor which is fine as long as it's low mileage. $3300 is not far from the going rate for the timing chain job alone +/-, so I find it a bit difficult to believe you're getting the cost of what a true rebuild runs (parts and labor), plus the finished product, plus remove and install for that price. That sounds about right for a salvaged motor that has had the timing chains replaced ~$1700 plus install, but I doubt a true rebuild.

Check and make sure before you pull the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The lady I got the car from took it to her dealer and was told it was a rod bearing and it really sounded like that to me as well. I do plan on keeping the car for awhile and it is in really nice condition. It's a shame it didn't come with a 3.8 SC as I have a new one of those sitting on my motor stand all ready to go. I was hunting Buick Park Avenues when I came across this deal and after driving it and looking at it I fell in love..
 

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The lady I got the car from took it to her dealer and was told it was a rod bearing and it really sounded like that to me as well. I do plan on keeping the car for awhile and it is in really nice condition. It's a shame it didn't come with a 3.8 SC as I have a new one of those sitting on my motor stand all ready to go. I was hunting Buick Park Avenues when I came across this deal and after driving it and looking at it I fell in love..
I believe the 3.6L DI naturally aspirated has an edge over the 3.8L SC.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
With the mention of "reflash included", dig a little deeper into what you're getting. There is no reflash necessary if you're replacing the motor with an identical. They only need to plug it into your current PCM. Sounds like a salvaged motor which is fine as long as it's low mileage. $3300 is not far from the going rate for the timing chain job alone +/-, so I find it a bit difficult to believe you're getting the cost of what a true rebuild runs (parts and labor), plus the finished product, plus remove and install for that price. That sounds about right for a salvaged motor that has had the timing chains replaced, but I doubt a true rebuild.

Check and make sure before you pull the trigger.
Yeah I was very surprised about this as well. They state it includes the full rebuild, pistons, rods, timing chains, heads checked and new valve seals. If I pull the motor, they come pick it up and rebuild it then bring it back to me $2700
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I believe the 3.6L DI naturally aspirated has an edge over the 3.8L SC.
The 3.8 I have sitting on my stand has had work done and should be over 400hp. It's been a project I've been working on for a couple years now..ah well
 

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Nope! Send that old motor to the junk pile. The 3.6L is one motor that needs to be fixed with new parts all the way through following a catastrophic failure. It has too many moving parts to get little bits of metal in and one bit in the wrong place, or one crucial tolerance out of place can make the rebuild a bust.

I thought you would be starting with something that was running already and then refreshed. You can buy a good used motor with decent mileage on it for less than that. I would not take a chance on rebuilding what you have, especially since they haven't seen the inside to make an informed decision as to whether or not it can be salvaged. If you're going to pull it, you might want to consider a different route.

Car-part.com is a great source of locating something near your zip to make sure you're getting the best deal. They have to make money, you don't want to be stuck on the wrong end of the bargaining table should they find they under quoted you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nope! Send that old motor to the junk pile. The 3.6L is one motor that needs to be fixed with new parts all the way through following a catastrophic failure. It has too many moving parts to get little bits of metal in and one bit in the wrong place, or one crucial tolerance out of place can make the rebuild a bust.

I thought you would be starting with something that was running already and then refreshed. You can buy a good used motor with decent mileage on it for less than that. I would not take a chance on rebuilding what you have, especially since they haven't seen the inside to make an informed decision as to whether or not it can be salvaged. If you're going to pull it, you might want to consider a different route.

Car-part.com is a great source of locating something near your zip to make sure you're getting the best deal. They have to make money, you don't want to be stuck on the wrong end of the bargaining table should they find they under quoted you.
Yeah I was wondering about that as I suspect that is what happened in the first place. Not sure a flush would get it all out. I might just pull the pan anyway and take a look.
 
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