Good question.Why did it blow?
I don't know i had just recently replaced dead battery with a new one maybe surge from new battery. I've been driving around for 3 days now no issues so far.Why did it blow?
Perhaps you inadvertently grounded something or hooked the cables up in the wrong order.I don't know i had just recently replaced dead battery with a new one maybe surge from new battery. I've been driving around for 3 days now no issues so far.
Just throwing it out there as a possibility.Maybe, I know I hooked up correctly I always double check which side is positive and negative.
Two things immediately come to mind:I am having this same issue, engine light flickering, traction control light blinking, all systems come on and the needles go back up then down like the computer thinks it started but I get no crank or click or anything. Battery is good and healthy, car recently had lots of battery and electrical issues, had to be jumped multiple times, battery died (was at the end of its life anyways) and it finally gave out and died (no acceleration or power to the pedals) a few days ago on a fresh battery I just bought. So after it died I tow it hom and I replaced the alternator as I figured that's why the battery was being pulled to such low voltage and I still had battery saver engaging after the new battery was installed. Anyways still have same issue, engine light flickering, traction control blinking, tried my battery and my Dad's, and I noticed both batteries read 12.4-12.6V when disconnected then measure at 11.2-11.4 when leads are connected to my car. So I belive it might be a power pull issue or an issue with the ecu.
Code also thrown "lost communication w ecu"
Let me know what you guys can do to help, thank you!
I have been planning to fix my sunroof weather stripping issue as soon as it stops raining here. As for the aftermarket parts. I'm kind of on a tight budget now so just bought an O'Reillys aftermarket re built alternator and installed, although my Dad has a rebuilt aftermarket alternator from autozone in his 2012 Cts3.6 Wagon and had no issues after the install.Two things immediately come to mind:
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...or inferior aftermarket replacement parts, like a parts store remanufactured alternator.
These cars command OEM parts for proper operation.
No, I currently only have my CTS, had to sell my other car unfortunately so finding rides is quite difficult, but I believe the battery is fried from being attached to a system with a bad alternator that ended up blowing. So I'm trying to go get it load tested, but even with jumper cables attached to my Dad's CTS wagon I am unable to get any response, same thing jus engine light flickering and no turnover or anything. I will be going to load test the battery tomo tho and will keep yall updated. I figure if a fresh battery doesn't work then I'm going to try swapping my alternator with the one out of Dad's CTS wagon since our cars have the same motor and are same generation build.Lost communication codes usually present after discharged or disconnected batteries.
Has the battery, even though new, been load tested?
I stand by my statement concerning parts store rebuilt alternators, especially when it comes to the CTS.
If I find that the alternator in my Dad's CTS wagon turns out to be a rebuilt ACDelco and my car fires up once I swap it in then I'd be very interested in buying one through you. I could pay you through PayPal for one of your rebuilt ACDelco units for a 2008 Cts3.6DI. Please message me or post details on how I'd pay and what the price is. Thanks!I rebuild my own alternators & have several Delcos on the shelf.
No need to search. I posted the link in post #33.There are usually auto electric shops in decent-sized cities, I paid $130 to rebuild mine. Do you still have your original alternator?
The sunroof problem is the drain tubes, search it.