Cadillac Owners Forum banner
21 - 40 of 94 Posts

Super Moderator
Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 馃檮
Joined
18,555 Posts
I don't know i had just recently replaced dead battery with a new one maybe surge from new battery. I've been driving around for 3 days now no issues so far.
Perhaps you inadvertently grounded something or hooked the cables up in the wrong order.
 
  • Like
Reactions: silversport

Super Moderator
Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 馃檮
Joined
18,555 Posts
Maybe, I know I hooked up correctly I always double check which side is positive and negative.
Just throwing it out there as a possibility.

Disconnecting a battery: negative cable first, positive cable last.
Reconnecting a battery: positive cable first, negative cable last.
 
  • Like
Reactions: silversport

Registered
'14 CTS-V LongRoof; Audi RS6 Avant; '16 ATS-V Sedan gone; '10 CTS LongRoof gone
Joined
20,904 Posts
I believe the presets remain in memory for a little while. I have disconnected my battery and upon reinstall everything functioned properly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: silversport

Registered
2008 CTS 3.6DI Rwd LuxPakk
Joined
32 Posts
I am having this same issue, engine light flickering, traction control light blinking, all systems come on and the needles go back up then down like the computer thinks it started but I get no crank or click or anything. Battery is good and healthy, car recently had lots of battery and electrical issues, had to be jumped multiple times, battery died (was at the end of its life anyways) and it finally gave out and died (no acceleration or power to the pedals) a few days ago on a fresh battery I just bought. So after it died I tow it hom and I replaced the alternator as I figured that's why the battery was being pulled to such low voltage and I still had battery saver engaging after the new battery was installed. Anyways still have same issue, engine light flickering, traction control blinking, tried my battery and my Dad's, and I noticed both batteries read 12.4-12.6V when disconnected then measure at 11.2-11.4 when leads are connected to my car. So I belive it might be a power pull issue or an issue with the ecu.

Code also thrown "lost communication w ecu"

Let me know what you guys can do to help, thank you!
 

Attachments

Super Moderator
Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 馃檮
Joined
18,555 Posts
I am having this same issue, engine light flickering, traction control light blinking, all systems come on and the needles go back up then down like the computer thinks it started but I get no crank or click or anything. Battery is good and healthy, car recently had lots of battery and electrical issues, had to be jumped multiple times, battery died (was at the end of its life anyways) and it finally gave out and died (no acceleration or power to the pedals) a few days ago on a fresh battery I just bought. So after it died I tow it hom and I replaced the alternator as I figured that's why the battery was being pulled to such low voltage and I still had battery saver engaging after the new battery was installed. Anyways still have same issue, engine light flickering, traction control blinking, tried my battery and my Dad's, and I noticed both batteries read 12.4-12.6V when disconnected then measure at 11.2-11.4 when leads are connected to my car. So I belive it might be a power pull issue or an issue with the ecu.

Code also thrown "lost communication w ecu"

Let me know what you guys can do to help, thank you!
Two things immediately come to mind:


...or inferior aftermarket replacement parts, like a parts store remanufactured alternator.
These cars command OEM parts for proper operation.
 

Registered
2008 CTS 3.6DI Rwd LuxPakk
Joined
32 Posts
Two things immediately come to mind:


...or inferior aftermarket replacement parts, like a parts store remanufactured alternator.
These cars command OEM parts for proper operation.
I have been planning to fix my sunroof weather stripping issue as soon as it stops raining here. As for the aftermarket parts. I'm kind of on a tight budget now so just bought an O'Reillys aftermarket re built alternator and installed, although my Dad has a rebuilt aftermarket alternator from autozone in his 2012 Cts3.6 Wagon and had no issues after the install.

Does anyone believe going along with that code [ attached image on my previous post] that it could possibly be the ECM gone bad from when the alternator went out while I was driving and accelerating? Some sort of power surge fried the ECM?

Let me know what any and everyone thinks about these thoughts. Thanks!

- SharkBaitB00
 

Super Moderator
Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 馃檮
Joined
18,555 Posts
Lost communication codes usually present after discharged or disconnected batteries.
Has the battery, even though new, been load tested?

I stand by my statement concerning parts store rebuilt alternators, especially when it comes to the CTS.
 

Registered
2008 CTS 3.6DI Rwd LuxPakk
Joined
32 Posts
Lost communication codes usually present after discharged or disconnected batteries.
Has the battery, even though new, been load tested?

I stand by my statement concerning parts store rebuilt alternators, especially when it comes to the CTS.
No, I currently only have my CTS, had to sell my other car unfortunately so finding rides is quite difficult, but I believe the battery is fried from being attached to a system with a bad alternator that ended up blowing. So I'm trying to go get it load tested, but even with jumper cables attached to my Dad's CTS wagon I am unable to get any response, same thing jus engine light flickering and no turnover or anything. I will be going to load test the battery tomo tho and will keep yall updated. I figure if a fresh battery doesn't work then I'm going to try swapping my alternator with the one out of Dad's CTS wagon since our cars have the same motor and are same generation build.

Long, is there any chance you could forsee the alternator going out/blowing upon me accelerating pretty heavily could've sent a power surge to my ecm and ruined it? Lmk thank you!

- SharkBaitB00
 

Registered
2008 CTS 3.6DI Rwd LuxPakk
Joined
32 Posts
I rebuild my own alternators & have several Delcos on the shelf.
If I find that the alternator in my Dad's CTS wagon turns out to be a rebuilt ACDelco and my car fires up once I swap it in then I'd be very interested in buying one through you. I could pay you through PayPal for one of your rebuilt ACDelco units for a 2008 Cts3.6DI. Please message me or post details on how I'd pay and what the price is. Thanks!

- SharkBaitB00
 

Registered
2009 CTS 3.6L DI, 2014 CTS VSport
Joined
3,323 Posts
There are usually auto electric shops in decent-sized cities, I paid $130 to rebuild mine. Do you still have your original alternator?

The sunroof problem is the drain tubes, search it.
 

Super Moderator
Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does 馃檮
Joined
18,555 Posts
There are usually auto electric shops in decent-sized cities, I paid $130 to rebuild mine. Do you still have your original alternator?

The sunroof problem is the drain tubes, search it.
No need to search. I posted the link in post #33.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: silversport
21 - 40 of 94 Posts
Top