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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I've been browsing the net trying to get this specific information, which led me here. My searches have turned up nothing, so I'm here to ask for your help. I'm trying to add an additional amp/subwoofer to the Bose 10 speaker system on my 2008 CTS using a line out converter. I've found that I should tap the LOC into the subwoofer wires at the harness that is on the rear side of the factory amp, and a green ACC wire on the battery side, but I'm unsure which size plastic wire taps I should get. I need to know the gauge of the wires, as the different taps accept different gauges (some of the taps say 18-22, 14-18, etc.). Does anyone have this info? I'm sorry to say that I do not have any measuring devices to figure this out on my own, and I don't want to risk wasting money guessing and checking. I very much appreciate any help that any of you can give me! :worship:
 

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2008 CTS Premium
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There are crossover on the rear speakers so you need to attach to the front speakers just an FYI. Pretty sure the wire is 18 gauge so either one of those should do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! If I can't tap in directly to the harness slots, I'll use the 18-22 AWG tap. Looking back at the post I pulled the wiring info from, it says to tap into the #6 and #7 pins (green/black[-], blue/white[+]), but does not state what factory speaker those go to -- I assumed the factory sub, but you know what they say about assuming... Maybe these go to a front speaker? I currently have the factory sub, and I just want a little more bass to round out the sound
 

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2013 Black Diamond CTS4 Premium Coupe (sold-09 CTS4 DI Black Raven/Ebony)
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The proper way to "tap" into the factory wires is to remove just the insulation and use a soldered western t-tap. Don't use wire taps. Wire taps just serve to damage the wire and cause problems down the road. If you need to join two straight wires, use a western union splice and solder the joint. In either case properly protect the soldered joint. Once of the best ways to protect the joint is using several applications of liquid-tape. If the joint may see abrasion, use friction tape after the liquid-tape. If you're going to do this, do it right and have it last the life of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the advice HurstGN. I guess it's better to take some extra time to do it right than the cheap easy way
 

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2013 Black Diamond CTS4 Premium Coupe (sold-09 CTS4 DI Black Raven/Ebony)
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You will be much happier in the long run when there are no troubles. And the time it takes to solder is pretty quick. If you never did it before, get some scrap wire and practice. If you use the butane powered portable soldering irons, just note where the heat is when it gets exhausted from the tip. Don't want to melt anything accidentally. Oh, and if you are lucky enough to use heat shrink tubing to cover your solder joints, the exhausted heat is perfect for shrinking the tubing. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, we took the time and did it the right way, and it really wasn't hard at all. Good to know that I probably won't have to think about anything coming loose easily. The wires I mentioned above turn out to be for the factory sub (which is still connected and functioning), and I am not experiencing any crossover issues. Everything is cleanly installed -- JBL GT804/Pioneer GM-A3602. I loved how easy it was having the battery and amp so accessible. My only quip is that the green/white wire is ignition but not ACC, but I had read that going in. Wish I had the proper equipment to find an ACC back there, but I guess I don't really need to have the sub going without the car running -- It'd be sucking battery anyway. I have to tune it a bit (gains are too high; that 8" really pounds! [that's what she... oh nevermind]), but it has made a big difference in the flexibility I have with sound settings. Simple, cheap, and functional; can't beat that!
 
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