Hello. All of my interior lights will not turn off while I'm driving,and when I leave and Lock the car they won't turn off until the 10 min timer turns them off. The dimmer dial works and is not locked on the ON setting. When I turn the car off, and open the driver door the radio turns off, however if I open the Passenger door the radio stays on. Is there a switch located on the Passenger door that could be causing this? Thanks
2008 CTS interior lights wont turn off
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SOLD - 2010 CTS4 Premium Wagon-Diamond White-Cashmere Interior
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My 2010 does the same as yours, except that the interior lights go out as expected. Opening the passenger door does NOT shut off the radio! It's most likely the driver door light switch that's sticking. Other than that, it might also be the dimmer switch itself. Do your lights actually dim when the dimmer is used?
Good Luck, Marv
Good Luck, Marv
Interior lights depends on many sensors like doors open but also current transmission mode. Mine are turned off immediately after switching from P to D and vice versa. However they remain off in case passenger opens the door while transmission is in drive mode. Radio goes off only when driver's door open, it makes sense. I think that without Tech2 will be very difficult to diagnose this problem, so I can only advise you to visit the dealership.
Previous: '08 CTS4, '09 CTS, '11 CTS4, all Premium models. No longer own a Cadillac.
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With the keyless entry system in the 2nd gen CTS there are two microswitches associated with each door handle/housing assembly and at least a couple of sets of microswitch contacts in the door latch assembly of each door. I'm guessing the problem the OP is facing involves a microswitch in one of the door latch assemblies (in one of the 4 doors). As what kkuz mentioned is his post above, a quick check/analysis using a Tech2 device should help pinpoint the problem.
As an aside.. here's a link to an interesting "how to" YouTube video that deals with taking care of a malfunctioning door handle microswitch.
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mFNcsSXeWE
EDIT 01-18-16:
Checking the wiring diagram for a 2011 CTS has confirmed the following:
● For the driver door (only) there are two microswitches contained within the door latch assembly; one microswitch is equipped with 2 poles/2 sets of contacts, and the other microswitch is equipped with 1 pole/1 set of contacts.
● For the front passenger door there is one microswitch in the door latch assembly and it is equipped with 2 poles/2 sets of contacts.
● It's assumed the door latch assemblies in the rear passenger doors are equipped the same as the front passenger door (i.e. one microswitch with 2 poles/2 sets of contacts).
● Each set of contacts in a door latch assembly microswitch has a specific "feedback task"; the feedback tasks are:
-- (1) Door ajar logic [signal name/id: 'XX' DOOR AJAR]
-- (2) Interior lighting turn on/turn off logic [signal name/id: 'XX' DR SW SIG]
-- (3) Retained Accessory Power (RAP) "kill" logic (kills radio and other RAP items on exit from vehicle - applies to driver door only) [signal name/id: DRV DR SW]
As an aside.. here's a link to an interesting "how to" YouTube video that deals with taking care of a malfunctioning door handle microswitch.
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mFNcsSXeWE
EDIT 01-18-16:
Checking the wiring diagram for a 2011 CTS has confirmed the following:
● For the driver door (only) there are two microswitches contained within the door latch assembly; one microswitch is equipped with 2 poles/2 sets of contacts, and the other microswitch is equipped with 1 pole/1 set of contacts.
● For the front passenger door there is one microswitch in the door latch assembly and it is equipped with 2 poles/2 sets of contacts.
● It's assumed the door latch assemblies in the rear passenger doors are equipped the same as the front passenger door (i.e. one microswitch with 2 poles/2 sets of contacts).
● Each set of contacts in a door latch assembly microswitch has a specific "feedback task"; the feedback tasks are:
-- (1) Door ajar logic [signal name/id: 'XX' DOOR AJAR]
-- (2) Interior lighting turn on/turn off logic [signal name/id: 'XX' DR SW SIG]
-- (3) Retained Accessory Power (RAP) "kill" logic (kills radio and other RAP items on exit from vehicle - applies to driver door only) [signal name/id: DRV DR SW]
What fuse is it that controls the interior lights?
Previous: '08 CTS4, '09 CTS, '11 CTS4, all Premium models. No longer own a Cadillac.
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caddyslab08, note that a fuse in a car doesn't actually "control" anything. A fuse in a car, generally speaking, supplies 12V+ power to a given circuit and protects the circuit (its components and wiring) from any over-current situation. In the 2nd gen CTS there is more than one fuse involved where all the interior lighting is concerned, although the fuses are not described as such in the fuse list in the CTS owner's manual. Certainly one of the fuses involved in interior lighting supplies power to and protects a "BCM" portion/module.
As info for everyone... it turns out the main interior lighting circuit (and the control of it) is more complicated than one may think, given that it involves "theater dimming" control of certain interior lights; theater dimming is carried out by a portion of the BCM (Body Control Module), with some logic inputs provided by the Driver Door Module (DDM) and Front Passenger Door Module (FPDM).
I no longer have online access to all the wiring diagrams /electrical schematics for a 2nd gen 2008-2013 CTS, however I've saved a few schematics from the time when I did.
One of those schematic pages provides detail on the wiring to the Driver Door Latch Assy, Front Passenger Door Latch Assy, Driver Door Module (DDM), Front Passenger Door Module (FPDM), Driver Door Handle Switch, Front Passenger Door Handle Switch, Lock Relay and Unlock Relay. Here's a link to the specific schematic I'm speaking of (i.e. Door Locks Wiring Diagram, page 2 of 2): >> http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/297...agram-2-va278060-pdf-july-10-2011-1-55-pm-30k
For anyone having an issue with interior lighting control I think a visit to the dealer or a reputable auto repair shop would be the order of the day. Alternatively, for the motivated DIYer with good/decent electrical savvy, get yourself a copy (paper or digital version) of the CTS Service Manual and see if you can troubleshoot and correct the problem yourself. The DIYer would need to have a digital multi-meter and probably a version of the Tech2 device to check systems status in the vehicle.
Thanks for the info RAB
I have an issue very similar happening with my car. It's a 2012 CTS4. The interior lights will not go off, and will stay on for hours on end. The dimmer switch is not in the on position and it continues to happen all of a sudden on a daily basis. I took it in to a dealership, and they are wanting to charge me all kinds of money to put it on a diagnostics tester to find out what the issue is, and then the parts are so expensive. If this is just a simple basic thing to fix, and anyone has any helps for this.... please let me know. Also, when I lock the doors with the fob, and I press the lock button twice, it's no longer beeping. Just curious as to whether or not these 2 things could be related. Thanks!
Previous: '08 CTS4, '09 CTS, '11 CTS4, all Premium models. No longer own a Cadillac.
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Not bad advice in general (using an electronic cleaner) however it is doubtful the cleaner spray would actually get to and into the microswitch(s) buried within the door latch assembly. Also.. what "button" on the door handle are you referring to? There is no button on the door handle of a 2nd gen CTS.
Pulling on a door handle activates the door actuator, which in turn unlatches/frees the door latch assembly which then allows the door to be opened. The mechanical action of the door latch assembly during the moments of "door opening" and "door closing" mechanically causes the microswitch(s) inside the door latch assembly to change state.
I'm sorry I meant pulling on the handle, my mistake. About a year ago my radio wouldn't turn off people on this site were saying I need to replace the switch in the door, so that's when I sprayed it several times while pulling on the handle and now my radio turns off every time.
Sorry, I meant to include the above quote. I’ve tried spraying down the lock actuators with WD40 and that hasn’t helped.
This Diagram will work for a 2011 Cadillac CTS 4 Correct?
Right now I have to unplug my battery in my trunk to stop my car from dying due to the interior lights. I am hoping its not too extensive that i cant do it myself.
Right now I have to unplug my battery in my trunk to stop my car from dying due to the interior lights. I am hoping its not too extensive that i cant do it myself.
The BCM is the master of the CTS universe. Without looking at any wiring diagrams I'd expect any associated switch to send a signal to the BCM, letting it know when to turn off the accessories after engine shut down, immediately, or after delay. If you have items remaining on even after the 10 minute grace period, I'd strongly suspect the BCM, or the ignition switch.
I have the remote start system and twice in as many days earlier this year the ignition switch was left on. My wife and myself exited the car on different occasions thinking the ignition was turned off. After her incident I recharged the battery after discovering she had left the ignition on just enough not to receive any warning on exiting.
After installing the battery following the recharge, I did the same thing, only I had a hint there was a problem. Sometimes I press the door lock switch on exiting instead of the remote, which results in a horn pulse a few seconds later. When I didn't hear it, I went back and checked and found that although I was sure I had turned the ignition off, I had not quite returned the switch back to the full stop position and saw nothing to suggest the ignition was still on. That was during the day so I'm not sure if there were any lights present. It's possible there was a snag in the switch that resulted in a false/premature sensation of hitting the stop upon turning the switch off resulting in a stop at a point short of being fully in the off position. Recall the not to distant GM ignition switch problem.
That's one test you can try. If the BCM shuts off power to the associated circuit, it shouldn't matter what down stream switches are doing as they will not have any power to sustain anything. This is why I believe your problem is likely between the BCM and the ignition switch. Light problems are a common sign of BCM trouble.
Generally a lot of faith is put in the dealership being able resolve these problems fairly quickly, but that just isn't the case. Repairs are often performed on a case by case basis, I doubt much beyond company required courses is going on preemptively among technicians given how many different systems they are exposed to and how often they are changing. So it doesn't surprise me one bit when someone states they took their car to the dealer and they had no clue as to what the cause of the problem is.
I have the remote start system and twice in as many days earlier this year the ignition switch was left on. My wife and myself exited the car on different occasions thinking the ignition was turned off. After her incident I recharged the battery after discovering she had left the ignition on just enough not to receive any warning on exiting.
After installing the battery following the recharge, I did the same thing, only I had a hint there was a problem. Sometimes I press the door lock switch on exiting instead of the remote, which results in a horn pulse a few seconds later. When I didn't hear it, I went back and checked and found that although I was sure I had turned the ignition off, I had not quite returned the switch back to the full stop position and saw nothing to suggest the ignition was still on. That was during the day so I'm not sure if there were any lights present. It's possible there was a snag in the switch that resulted in a false/premature sensation of hitting the stop upon turning the switch off resulting in a stop at a point short of being fully in the off position. Recall the not to distant GM ignition switch problem.
That's one test you can try. If the BCM shuts off power to the associated circuit, it shouldn't matter what down stream switches are doing as they will not have any power to sustain anything. This is why I believe your problem is likely between the BCM and the ignition switch. Light problems are a common sign of BCM trouble.
Generally a lot of faith is put in the dealership being able resolve these problems fairly quickly, but that just isn't the case. Repairs are often performed on a case by case basis, I doubt much beyond company required courses is going on preemptively among technicians given how many different systems they are exposed to and how often they are changing. So it doesn't surprise me one bit when someone states they took their car to the dealer and they had no clue as to what the cause of the problem is.
My particular problem is definitely linked to the driver door only. Interior lights will 9 times out of 10 stay on after driver door closes and driving. Just got them to go out on my way to pick up daughter then she got in passenger side and front map lights went out but noticed rear seat lights were on. (They may have been on before she opened her door but I didn't notice.) I lubed driver door latch and thought I had it fixed... but no. I have an '03 Silverado that does this occasionally but when I lube driver door latch it always fixes it. Is this simply replacing door acutator? Or is it replacing door handle thing that has the two micro switches?
(I have been searching for an answer but haven't found a definitive solution.)
Thanks.
(I have been searching for an answer but haven't found a definitive solution.)
Thanks.
...forgot to mention that this car has an aftermarket (ugh!) key fob and remote start. I don't use the remote start but I do use the key fob. I have one original cadi fob that I don't use.
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