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Sure thing, here you go:

http://www.procutinternational.com/zipfind.aspx

Just enter your zip code. They list all the shops using their equipment, (which is designed for use on solid, slotted, and/or cross drilled rotors), as well as list which shops are certified by them.

Again, a little research goes a long way.
That still doesn't mean they have a qualified tech. Same thing with the Hunter road force balancer. There are 4 shops in my local area. 3 of them don't calibrate the machine, and don't know how to match the rim to the tire. I need to travel 20 miles to the 1 shop that knows how to properly use the machine.

As far as the rotors, I'm happy with new blank rotors, with new pads. Never had a problem doing it MY way. Have fun paying a shop labor money to cut your rotors on the car.
 

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the blur said:
I know fancy german cars come with fancy bling rotors. But go ask on the SCCA forum, and let me know what they say. Especially the guys with the high HP T1 cars.
Ok, fine, let's ignore all the high end and super car manufacturers. Everyone knows they don't know anything about high performance parts anyway...

F1:



NASCAR:



Dakar rally:



Yup, definitely bling.

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the blur said:
That still doesn't mean they have a qualified tech. Same thing with the Hunter road force balancer. There are 4 shops in my local area. 3 of them don't calibrate the machine, and don't know how to match the rim to the tire. I need to travel 20 miles to the 1 shop that knows how to properly use the machine. As far as the rotors, I'm happy with new blank rotors, with new pads. Never had a problem doing it MY way. Have fun paying a shop labor money to cut your rotors on the car.
In no way am I trying to change how YOU go about maintaining YOUR car. That's none of my concern. Just clearing up misinformation.
 

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Nice pictures. NOT 1 has holey rotors !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And that is because they start cracking & heat checking at the holes. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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the blur said:
Slots - holes are just bling.
Unless I'm reading this wrong, you discount the usefulness of both cross drilling slotting.

Cross drilled rotors DO tend to develop cracks, I'm not disputing that.
 

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Cross drilling, which is what the the blur is talking about, are not useful. Slots are different and help dissipate heat. I agree. Cross drilling serves no purpose and does make the rotors worse. Junk.
 

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This Escaladed quickly :yup: See what I did there??? Anyway, I don't race my Escalade so I'm not worried about drilled and slotted, BUT I do like the look and the performance of the ones I buy from Brake Motive. I pay $227 (free shipping) for all brand new pads and rotors that are drilled and slotted. They are zinc coated and do not rust. I have had them on 3 different vehicles and never once had a crack or any other issue. I'm ONLY talking about MY experience with these types of rotors and pads. I haven't had an issue, price is great, and I like the sporty look so that's why I continue to get them.

If I remember right the OP was asking about rotors for their 2007 Esky :)
 

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The purpose cross drilling serves, for the most part, is reducing unsprung weight. Weather or not the decrease in service life is worth that attribute is up to the buyer. If your new high end car comes with them, great. It's under warranty, and you have money anyway, so who cares, why not.

Personally, I don't use or recommend them. I use either solid or slotted.
 

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I've been running slotted and drilled rotors for almost 15 years now. Not ONCE have I had an issue with cracking or breaking, or any other issues. Just greatly improved stopping power and shorter distances than the run of the mill flat faced rotors.
 

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The slots do nothing on a street driven car, except reduce pad life. My brother has the slotted rotors on his car, and pad life is reduced by 50%. And it's totally not necessary on a daily driver.
 

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HAHAHA reduce pad life? I put over 100k on my last set. On a lifted 07 Yukon. Slotted and drilled rotors, ceramic pads. If getting 100k is reducing pad life, than sign me up, I'll take that all day.

Sounds like you would be better off cutting a hole in the floor and Flintstoning your ride.
 

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No one gets 100,000 miles in the NE. Only in the southern parts of the county. My dealer was trying to sell me brakes since 30,000 miles. I finally did them at 40,000 miles, and they were just about down to the backing plates. And if you don't maintain the slider pins, which obviously you don't, they rust solid after a few years.
 

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Reduced pad life?? What?????

dsminva said:
I've been running slotted and drilled rotors for almost 15 years now. Not ONCE have I had an issue with cracking or breaking, or any other issues. Just greatly improved stopping power and shorter distances than the run of the mill flat faced rotors.
As for raw stopping power, rotors don't provide that. The more slots/holes/dimples in the rotor, the less surface area, and less stopping power you get. If you're running slotted/drilled rotors, you really want to use a performance pad. OEM style pads + slotted/drilled rotors = brakes that won't stop you as fast as the stock setup. The COMBINATION of performance pads and rotors, gets you more braking power, AND less fade.
 

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That would make sense if the trailing edge of the slots were higher than the leading edges, acting as a slicer on the pad, but the rotors are made and remain flat and level. I've installed slotted rotors on my personal cars , and cars of friends and family that I service regularly. No issues with pad life compared to solid rotors.
 

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Why don't you guys put your money where your mouth is and lets race to a stop then. First one from 100 to zero. MIR should be able to handle this.
 

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That would make sense if the trailing edge of the slots were higher than the leading edges, acting as a slicer on the pad, but the rotors are made and remain flat and level. I've installed slotted rotors on my personal cars , and cars of friends and family that I service regularly. No issues with pad life compared to solid rotors.
They don't stay flat & level. If your at a red light, and hold your foot on the brakes, there is more heat in that area, and thus more expansion in that area. So I'm sure a slot will raise .0001" and slice your pads. It's simple physics.
 
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