My heated/cooled seats stopped operating earlier this year. When I press the on/off switch the lights come on but nothing happens. The rear heated seats work fine. I took the car to a dealer this week and they told me the problem was that a connector had melted inside the module. The repair estimate is $850 and the car is out of warranty. It seems to me that a connector melting beneath a seat could be a fire hazard. Is anyone aware of any safety recalls from Cadillac concerning this issue and if not, how do you go about reporting a safety issue?
2007 DTS heated seats inoperative
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Have you checked the fuse the way the dts is built they scan with a tech 2 and everything has a trouble code in most cases the dealer will not tear down the car before scanning it check your fuses first
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Louiephipps, I would be happy to check for any open recalls currently on your DTS. Please don't hesitate to email me at [email protected] with the last eight of your VIN, and I can check my resources for any helpful information on the topic for you. (I can also contact your dealer if you would like any assistance working with them!)
Katie
Cadillac Customer Service
Katie
Cadillac Customer Service
#PIC4825:
Heated / Cooled Seat Inoperative -
keywordsclimate control cool cooled driver front heat heated inoperative intermittentleft
module passenger right - (Mar 18, 2008)
The following diagnosismight be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
A customer may commentthe heated / cooled seat feature is inop for either the driver or passengerfront seat. The cause may
be a poor connection of the climate control seatmodule (CCSM) C1 pin E circuit 1440 (2006- 2007 model years)
or X1 pin Ecircuit 1440 (2008 model year).
Do about 20 to 30 a year. You don’t have to remove the seat. Take out the 2 rear bolts
Tilt the seat back forward to unhook the front of the seat from the locking pins. Lay the seat back on the back seat.
You can get the connector with 20in leads part number 15306171
Heated / Cooled Seat Inoperative -
keywordsclimate control cool cooled driver front heat heated inoperative intermittentleft
module passenger right - (Mar 18, 2008)
| Subject: | Heated/ Cooled Seat Inoperative |
| Models: | 2006- 2008 Buick Lucerne w/ RPO KB6 |
| 2006- 2008 Cadillac DTS w/ RPO KB6 |
[HR][/HR]
Condition/Concern:
A customer may commentthe heated / cooled seat feature is inop for either the driver or passengerfront seat. The cause may
be a poor connection of the climate control seatmodule (CCSM) C1 pin E circuit 1440 (2006- 2007 model years)
or X1 pin Ecircuit 1440 (2008 model year).
Do about 20 to 30 a year. You don’t have to remove the seat. Take out the 2 rear bolts
Tilt the seat back forward to unhook the front of the seat from the locking pins. Lay the seat back on the back seat.
You can get the connector with 20in leads part number 15306171
My wife's 2007 just did the same thing, burning smell, heating/cooling all quit, melted connector, no blown fuses. Bad news. Replacing connector, hope module is ok, reducing 30A fuse to 25A for better safety in case it hapens again.
Here' a write up on how I did it.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...king-sensors-stopped-working.html#post3288711
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...king-sensors-stopped-working.html#post3288711
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2 Posts
2006 DTS, both front seats do not function. Similar results as posted earlier, with the relay clicking when you hit
the switch, no blown fuses...I am planning on getting involved with it this weekend. Thanks for the advise and Part number for the harness! I will post results after I dig in!
the switch, no blown fuses...I am planning on getting involved with it this weekend. Thanks for the advise and Part number for the harness! I will post results after I dig in!
Hey, mine did this exact same thing for a while.....at first they worked fine...then when I hit the button I'd hear the relay click, then about 3-4 seconds later it would click again and that would be it until I restarted the car. At this point, the only time my seats would heat was when it was absolutely frigid outside....below 20F, (and that can be rare here in middle TN) which let me know it was a connection issue. I'd use remote start on those really cold days and on first start up they would work...I guess the cold made them contract enough to complete the connection. Then they got to where they would not work at all. After reading and seeing pics on here I unplugged mine and found the melted connector in the exact same places. I ordered the connector for like $5 total on ebay and just now tonight I fixed them. It took me over an hour clipping, snipping, and being careful not to hurt any of the contacts inside, I was able to just pop the melted plastic off the metal, cleaned it with lacquer thinner to remove residue, and one by one placed the wires back into the new connector. They actually work now! Wonder how long it will be before the new connector melts like the old one. I didn't even have to remove the seat!!! There really should be a safety recall on these cars with this system. I filled out a complaint with NHTSA on their website. Make enough noise and they will investigate it.
The new part # is 15326110 It's just the plastic connector, no wires...unless you get lucky and find one at your local dealership in the back room...that old # is 15306171
If you search for the old # it will pull up the new one and say it's the replacement part #. Good luck in your endeavor...it's tedious but not impossible...and think of the money you will save!!
The new part # is 15326110 It's just the plastic connector, no wires...unless you get lucky and find one at your local dealership in the back room...that old # is 15306171
If you search for the old # it will pull up the new one and say it's the replacement part #. Good luck in your endeavor...it's tedious but not impossible...and think of the money you will save!!
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2 Posts
Found the plug burnt under the passenger seat! Working well after the repair!3XStanleyNJ said:
Thanks for all the posts!
$5.60 with free 2 day Prime shipping...
.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...s&field-keywords=15326110&rh=i:aps,k:15326110
.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...s&field-keywords=15326110&rh=i:aps,k:15326110
Has anyone checked to see if the High Current circuit, that is burning out, can be
pulled out from plug Group, and made up with High current connector.
It's apparent it's a Manufacturers " fault" ( to high current on that type connector).
Might take "Engineering" into our hands. Push On connectors are available, AWG 12-10.
Male & Female , these are good for 20-30 amps.
FEMALE DISCONNECT .250 X .032 12-10GA YELLOW INSULATED NYLON
WW Grainger # MNI 10-250 DFIX
pulled out from plug Group, and made up with High current connector.
It's apparent it's a Manufacturers " fault" ( to high current on that type connector).
Might take "Engineering" into our hands. Push On connectors are available, AWG 12-10.
Male & Female , these are good for 20-30 amps.
FEMALE DISCONNECT .250 X .032 12-10GA YELLOW INSULATED NYLON
WW Grainger # MNI 10-250 DFIX
I think mine just quit again, after repairing them 2 weeks ago...smelled a strange smell last night and then they just quit again! Another GM screw-up! I second that above...I was wondering myself about some connectors that can handle the current and heat generated from the obvious resistance inside the module....something that won't melt. I wish I could solder the wires on! This makes me think of the house fires back in the late '70s early '80s from aluminum wire and incompatible screws on the plugs....causing them to overheat and start a fire. These seem to only heat up at the connection. I wonder if I could solder a piece of wire to the terminals themselves and add one of these grainger connectors inline to enable disconnection if needed.
yep, just pulled the plug and it's beginning to melt AGAIN! I'm going to try to engineer it myself if I can find the right size connector. Anybody know what size the wires are under there....I mean the big black one and the big yellow one....are they 10ga or 12ga?
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Hi there. I know that this is an old post. It’s the only one I’ve found that mentions reducing the fuse to the power seats. I was thinking about that. How did that turn out for you. I thought of that too but I’m wondering why everyone isn’t saying to reduce the fuse.
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