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1996 FWB, 2007 DTS (sold), 2000 STS (sold), 1994 ETC (RIP), 1995 Impala SS (sold)
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I bought my '07 DTS Performance in 8/2011 at 47K and my heated seats stopped working at just a nick over 50K miles. The local dealership (Huber Cadillac in Omaha, NE) made a call on my behalf to GM and replaced the module underneath the passenger seat for half cost (cost me $400).

Fast forward to April 2014 and the problem happened again. After searching this forum I found some great info from you guys which got me pointed in the right direction. I happened upon this post: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-dts-forum-2006-through-2012/277551-2007-dts-heated-seats-inoperative.html

I went to the dealer and purchased the "new" cheap, plastic P/N 15326110 which superseded 15306171. Went home and pulled the seat (HUGE thanks to BobbieB's post here: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-dts-forum-2006-through-2012/285451-heated-seats-parking-sensors-stopped-working.html#post3288711

I found that the main 12V wire (14AWG?) had burned through the plastic connector. At this point I elected not to re-pin the new, cheap plastic connector as there's no reason to believe it wouldn't just happen again. Went to the dealer and they had no suggestions/workarounds. What I ended up doing was purchasing 8 new metal connector pins (for which I was charged a hefty $10 apiece). I decided to bypass the plastic and ended up soldering the wires to the new pins, and used heat-shrink tubing (rated at 200+ degrees fht) and went straight to the male ends of the module. I made sure the heat-shrink tubing was covering everything almost flush to the end of each pin, and of course made sure to keep each wire in the correct position.

End result is that 5 months later, everything is still working perfectly with nearly daily use of the heated/cooled seats (yeah, I am one of those people :bigroll:). There is no evidence of melting, burning, or anything else at this point in time. I wanted to post what I did in the hopes someone out there can make this "$900 repair" into about an $80 repair with a little work. I also wanted to have some time to validate the results and I gotta tell ya, it worked out great for me. YMMV.

Mark
 

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1996 FWB, 2007 DTS (sold), 2000 STS (sold), 1994 ETC (RIP), 1995 Impala SS (sold)
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Nice, real informative do you have pics
Most definitely. Here are pics of:

1. The passenger seat out of the car, just to give an approximate location of where the module is;


2. The culprit/burned out connector;


3. The repaired wiring (this pic was taken 10 mins ago)


Note that the yellow wire is a tad shorter than the rest because I had to trim out the melted stuff. Still plenty of slack. The rest of the wires run the original twist and only had the bare minimum trimmed. Truth be told the existing pins on the undamaged wires *probably* could've been reused but for the time I was investing I didn't want to leave anything to chance.

Best of luck!

Mark
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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211 Posts
I have been watching the various heated seat repair fixes on here for almost a while.
I fixed one melted terminal right after I purchased the car (using info from this forum) and the seats heated / cooled as designed for almost a year. But they stopped working last week during the latest cold spell and I wanted them fixed like right now. Really missed the heat at -20 below.....

I have plenty of pictures of the fix, I did things a bit differently than Mark (who started this thread) and wanted to post my method.

I will post a few pictures tonight to get started.

I will say that the Dealership that charged him $10.00 each for those terminals should be publicly stoned and flogged, I sell them for $.75 each. :mob:

I will provide the part numbers used and where to get them. The wire connector and terminals ARE NOT exclusive to Cadillac or GM in general. Other OEM's use Delphi / Packard components as well.

Mike.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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211 Posts
The basic seat removal is covered in other areas of this forum, I chose not to unhook the seat belt from the seat frame for this repair......after releasing the seat I gently (being careful of the dashboard) tip it and bring it around so that it lays on its back on the floorboard like this......

My sequence for removal and repair is as follows...


1) Power the seat all the way front, remove the plastic covers at the rear of the seat track. Remove the two Torx head mounting bolts.
2) Recline the seat backrest about 1/3rd of the way back, release lock and remove headrest.
3) Power the seat to the rear until front of seat base is even with the end of the front tracks.
4) Run seat up to the maximum height.
5) Bring seat backrest upright.
6) Release seat from tracks by lifting the rear and pulling seat back at same time to release the front from the floorboard slots.
7) Tip the seat back enough to allow you to release the main wire harness and the yellow seat air bag harness.
8) Swing seat around as shown in my attached photo.






 

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2011 DTS Platinum
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The basic seat removal is covered in other areas of this forum, I chose not to unhook the seat belt from the seat frame for this repair......after releasing the seat I gently (being careful of the dashboard) tip it and bring it around so that it lays on its back on the floorboard like this......

Edit....not much fun trying to put pictures on here, will try again later....
The way I do pictures to forums is...
Get a free Photobucket account...
Upload your pictures to the free account...
Make a few folders to organize your pictures if you want to...

When you move the mouse over a picture, a little gear will pop up on the upper right corner of the picture.
Move the mouse over the gear and a menu will drop down...
Click on SHARE LINKS...
Click on the bottom one...IMG Codes
Then come to the forum and do a RIGHT CLICK and then click on PASTE and your FULL SIZE picture is then here.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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211 Posts
The way I do pictures to forums is...
Get a free Photobucket account...
Upload your pictures to the free account...
Make a few folders to organize your pictures if you want to...

When you move the mouse over a picture, a little gear will pop up on the upper right corner of the picture.
Move the mouse over the gear and a menu will drop down...
Click on SHARE LINKS...
Click on the bottom one...IMG Codes
Then come to the forum and do a RIGHT CLICK and then click on PASTE and your FULL SIZE picture is then here.
Thank you for that, I will try it. I frequent a couple of forums using this format and had not run into this issue before.

I really want to get them on here.

EDIT.....Eureka, it works.:yup:

I will add to this as I have time this week.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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211 Posts
Once you have the seat out and in a position similar to what I have shown above remove the control module.....


Attaching nut on right side of module..





Attaching nut on left side of module...




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Bring control module out through the circled area with the harness still attached, there is slack enough to do this...assuming that you put the seat all of the way up as instructed....




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Pull blue release tabs back on the two small connectors, then squeeze and pull connectors to remove....then release the large connector by squeezing the release tab and pulling...










 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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Now here is the melted / modified plug just like everyone else's....







Now this is where I went to the wild side, I took the module apart. There are 2 tabs that hold the case together on each side. Work carefully, take your time. When all 4 tabs are released the case halves come apart and then you can carefully pull the circuit board out. Take care to not bend any pins while doing this.....



2 of the tabs are visible in this photo...






Circuit board is in good shape, no evidence of black spots, burnt solder joints, etc....Is good to go.




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I had purchased 3 spare sockets and 20 spare terminals in order to be ready for anything.

After looking this all over I determined that the only weak spot in this whole deal are the two big wires. The other 8 wires and terminals never bother. So with that being said I took two 4" pieces of 12 gauge wire (one red and one white), crimped and soldered a new terminal to one end of each wire.

I then slid the terminals onto the male terminals of the board in the correct position...and then soldered them. End of crappy connection issues right there.




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Stay Tuned!!! I will keep adding to this as I get time this week.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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Now to get this back together........



I took the grey half of the case and carefully drilled (going one drill size at a time) the four slots to the right out..Then used a utility knife to square it up....




Once this is done hold the grey half in one hand, feed the wires through the newly expanded hole and carefully seat the board paying close attention to the pins and terminals to make sure they all go through.
Then snap the back half on.

Voila, all together....



The assembled control module....


 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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Now you need to make a wiring diagram to keep track of what wire goes where when you install the new connector...Mine's not pretty but it does the job...
This is done from the rear of the connector...




Now you need to release the wire ends from the old connector. The gray faceplate has to be removed, then each terminal can be released using a small screwdriver to hold down the release tab while tugging the wire from behind. I used side cutters to break up the gray faceplate enough to slide it out.

The face plate only comes out in one direction, see photo







Now this is hard to get a photo of but if you look close you can see the release tabs for each terminal in the old connector.







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Now if this went well you will have all of the terminals released, if any were damaged during the removal now is the time to change any that need repair. The two big wires, in my case the Yellow w/Gray stripe and the Red need the terminals cut off. Other years and models may vary in color so use my diagram to figure yours out. Please take a moment to see if the new connector will slide over the wires that have been soldered to the control module. If not you need to trim just a little bit of the two cavities involved using a proper size drill bit by hand. I only had to spin the bit a couple of times with my fingers.

Once the 8 terminals are ready snap them into the new connector one at a time. I took the new lock plate and trimmed it like this before inserting it into the connector...




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Now thread the Red and White wire through the connector and work the connector towards the module. Keep going until the connector latches into the module.







Now all you have to do is connect the new wires on the module to the remaining power wires using your wiring diagram. I soldered them and left plenty of slack wire and taped it to the harness in case that I ever have to revisit this problem again. Plug the other two connectors in, work the module back through the opening that I removed it out through and mount it.



I think that this repair is the best because the connections are tight, they are protected by being inside of the connector and they can not work themselves loose from any little bit of higher than normal amperage. Plus the connector integrity is still in place for the remaining 8 wires involved. Even if something happens to the module the connector can still be unplugged and the two wires that were spliced can simply be cut. Easy peasy.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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Now I checked on the properties of this GT280 Packard system and it is rated for 25 amps.

My theory is this, as the little heat pumps age (there are two in each front seat) they start to draw more amperage and that's why the issues start around 50,000 miles or so. It may only be a few amps over but is just enough to start to melt the connector which allows the terminals to swell just a bit and lose connection. My board showed no hot spots at all and I am truly hoping that this is the fix until the module itself gives up.
I did this fix three weekends ago and the seats have worked as designed. I also noticed that the settings now are rock solid with the correct amount of heat, before this fix they would get hotter than they should on medium and low at times.

Mike.
 

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2011 DTS Platinum
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MWilson...
I think you did a great job and it should last a long time...
If I ever have to do mine, that is the way I will do it... :worship:
Thank you for the write up and all the pictures... that will make it a lot easier for me to do.
 

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2006 DTS LUX III, 2006 DTS w/sunroof & navigation (scrapped), 1997 ETC (Sold)
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MWilson...
I think you did a great job and it should last a long time...
If I ever have to do mine, that is the way I will do it... :worship:
Thank you for the write up and all the pictures... that will make it a lot easier for me to do.
Ha Ha!!!!:) The bow is a really nice touch....:lol::lol::lol:

Actually was wondering if anyone else had tried it and if my directions were easy to follow. Sometimes I have a hard time expressing such things and was seeking some feedback.

It should be a permanent fix unless the module itself fails.

Mike.
 

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I appreciate this entire thread. I purchased a used 07 DTS and am collecting information so when I can get garage time I have things to check out. Very clear directions, you did a nice job and the pictures are very helpful.
 

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2007 Escalade
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I appreciate this entire thread. I purchased a used 07 DTS and am collecting information so when I can get garage time I have things to check out. Very clear directions, you did a nice job and the pictures are very helpful.
If you decide to replace the connector, the part is available on amazon for pretty cheap. I ended up cutting the pins off of mine (connector wouldn't come apart because it had basically melted together and installing new pins and soldering them on after crimping them. I don't know that it will be any better than the factory setup, but thought I'd share in case anyone needs the part numbers. If I have the problem again I may go a different route.

The part numbers for the pins is 15304711
The connector itself is 15326110

Mouser has both and amazon has the connector on Prime if you just need it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00493VYUO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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2008 DTS
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another solution is to use marine grade butt connectors for $1.00 a piece. There are sizes designed for #10 - #12 wire down to 20 - 22 gauge wire.
 
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