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2007 DTS VIN Y
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a 2007 DTS, It has very high mileage though with a near mint interior and body, it 238k miles on it, no idiot lights or codes come up other than a tire pressure sensor. There isn't even a crack in the driver's seat leather like my families older caddis.

It has a clunk in the suspension when turning the wheel on the right side, also when I hit a bump... Was thinking maybe a control arm or wheel hub ? I can tell the front suspension/steering will need some attention, it rides smooth no vibrations in the wheel or brakes until about 80mph and even then it's minimal , more when I hit a bump or hard steer from a stop sign or something

Ok, so what would you recommend to have done with such high miles, regular maintenance, things some people forget to replace or recommendations? planning on having up on the lift with the mechanic early next week.

I just did an oil change and swapped out both air filters ( I just bought the car last night ) For $1910.00

My mechanic recommend a transmission filter and gasket(without looking at it, just a suggestion based on his experience with caddi's , so he says will make it last a lot longer )

The shifting does hesitate ever so slightly between Drive & Overdrive . Other than that, the car is solid at first glance, I haven't been under the car or had it on a lift yet.

For what I paid for the car (What would you pay with the mileage?)

I don't expect it to last 10 years, but I'd like to take a road trip n see the family etc. So, anything I can do to prolong it's life, I'm open to suggestions.

PICTURE FOR REFERENCE and the car I just got is in just as nice of condition, just not as shiny, it has sun fading on the clear coat.

591402
 

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Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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75,429 Posts
Welcome Aboard !!!

Keep it clean, don't baby it, and read the owner's manual twice, then subscribe the car to a multi-year deal at www.alldatadiy.com, the online GM/Cadillac/Helm service manuals.

The transmission fluid filter gets changed at overhaul; you clean the pan screens with a pan drop. It's a dry sump transmission - there should be NO fluid on the stick with the engine off for 5 or 10 minutes. It uses DEXRON-VI. Maybe 10 - 12 quarts with a pan drop and side tank drain, 15 from total overhaul dry.

In your 4T80E transmission 4th gear (D) IS overdrive - the gear ratio is 0.68:1. 3rd gear is the 1:1 direct drive. The TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) lockup at road loads over 42 mph is the hesitation you feel.

TCC takes out the last 300 or so rpm of converter slip. It's an emissions monitored system - fuel mileage.

The 8th character of your VIN gives the powertrain type - VIN Y is the economy ~275 hp / 3.11 final drive setup while VIN 9 is the ~300 hp / 3/71 performance setup.

Here is the speed vs. rpm table for TCC - it drops out with slight acceleration or power demand. The VIN Y table stops at 115 because those cars are speed limited to 112. (The original tire speed rating on the driver's door sticker)

Text White Line Style Colorfulness


Yellow Text Colorfulness Line Font
 

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2007 DTS VIN Y
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
""The 8th character of your VIN gives the powertrain type - VIN Y is the economy ~275 hp "

I just checked the VIN it's Y , Thank you for such a detailed reply. I am new to world of owning a Cadillac, I know it can come at a hefty maintenance bill. It just rides so SMOOTH. My family has been driving them since the 60's. My father still preserve's my grandmother's 70's Deville.

I know there will be some suspension or axle work needed just based on the thumping when turning the wheel from a dead stop and or hitting bumps.

I am going to have my mechanic look at it up on a lift and give it a full once over next week and let you all know what we find, anything I should look for specifically or trouble spots while it's up on the lift?

Thanks again
 

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Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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75,429 Posts
Post was just fine - the site Akismet checker is a bit touchy. Not to worry.

Yes, the car has CV (Constant Velocity) joints in the front axles - it's a front wheel drive car, so the drive wheels must also be able to turn with steering input.

Have the mechanic check the front wheel hubs, front struts, rear shocks, sway bar bushings and end links as well as the correct function of the ELC (Electronic Level Control) system that adjusts for extra weight in the trunk or rear seat. You should hear the compressor hum for 2 seconds shortly after Key: ON. It does a system checkout and preload - the shocks incorporate air bladders for rear height control - it's NOT any form of "air suspension".
 

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2007 DTS VIN Y
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11 Posts
Post was just fine - the site Akismet checker is a bit touchy. Not to worry.

Yes, the car has CV (Constant Velocity) joints in the front axles - it's a front wheel drive car, so the drive wheels must also be able to turn with steering input.

Have the mechanic check the front wheel hubs, front struts, rear shocks, sway bar bushings and end links as well as the correct function of the ELC (Electronic Level Control) system that adjusts for extra weight in the trunk or rear seat. You should hear the compressor hum for 2 seconds shortly after Key: ON. It does a system checkout and preload - the shocks incorporate air bladders for rear height control - it's NOT any form of "air suspension".
So the base model doesn't have the magneride suspension?
The rear air bladder/pump works, It fills the air for a few moments after I start the car, it's the front end that feels weak

238K, Wow! I was going to start a little list here as to what you should check, but with that kind of mileage I would say just check EVERYTHING wiper blades to seatbelts.
The interior is mint, The exterior for it's age is very clean, minimal rock wear on the front, Now the windshield on the other hand does show it's age with the pitting etc. I have a guy who can replace it for $200 without the rain sensing $320 with rain sensing.

The engine has pep, gets up n goes, slight valve tick, but I've been told that's normal for high mileage northstars v8s ?

I'm going to have my mechanic give it a full once over next Tuesday.

I anticipated having to put some money into it being I bought it for $1910.00. You should see the cars on the market around here at that price. People with 200-300k , Blown engines, salvage titles, missing keys or just plain pieces of junk. I think I got a lot of car for the money
 

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2011 DTS Base
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257 Posts
Since I can't tell how bad the pitting is from here (LOL), I'm not sure how much this will help, but try clay-barring your windshield. It won't get rid of any pitting but it sure does get everything else off the glass without doing any damage. I was shocked by how much it cleaned up my windows..
 

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Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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75,429 Posts
You can polish the windshield - not remove the pits but smooth them - with a kit from Custom Chemical Packaging. It's a drill-operated optical polish pad system that smooth the pit chip facets and removes much of the scatter light reflection.

This is but one ad from a Google search. The several different CCP kits are carried in parts stores, too.


Their headlight polish kit is a miracle -

Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Headlamp Automotive parking light Grille
 

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Registered
2011 DTS Premium
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159 Posts
I had a shop do the windshield chips on mine, (got three nasty chips in the space of only a few months) and they just billed the insurance for it. To be honest, I wasn't really that impressed with the outcome, mainly because I was picturing the results from that ChrisFix video in mind. It barely looks better than before, but I'm told that this should stop the cracks from getting longer and spreading. Once a chip turns into a crack of a certain length, it's deemed to no longer be repairable, and the entire windshield has to be replaced, so I'm just happy to have been able to avoid that. As it stands, they're only about as noticeable as the general bug splats, so it doesn't really bother me that much anymore.
 

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Super Moderator
2003 Deville Base
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6,507 Posts
I just purchased a 2007 DTS, It has very high mileage though with a near mint interior and body, it 238k miles on it, no idiot lights or codes come up other than a tire pressure sensor. There isn't even a crack in the driver's seat leather like my families older caddis.

It has a clunk in the suspension when turning the wheel on the right side, also when I hit a bump... Was thinking maybe a control arm or wheel hub ? I can tell the front suspension/steering will need some attention, it rides smooth no vibrations in the wheel or brakes until about 80mph and even then it's minimal , more when I hit a bump or hard steer from a stop sign or something

Ok, so what would you recommend to have done with such high miles, regular maintenance, things some people forget to replace or recommendations? planning on having up on the lift with the mechanic early next week.

I just did an oil change and swapped out both air filters ( I just bought the car last night ) For $1910.00

My mechanic recommend a transmission filter and gasket(without looking at it, just a suggestion based on his experience with caddi's , so he says will make it last a lot longer )

The shifting does hesitate ever so slightly between Drive & Overdrive . Other than that, the car is solid at first glance, I haven't been under the car or had it on a lift yet.

For what I paid for the car (What would you pay with the mileage?)

I don't expect it to last 10 years, but I'd like to take a road trip n see the family etc. So, anything I can do to prolong it's life, I'm open to suggestions.

PICTURE FOR REFERENCE and the car I just got is in just as nice of condition, just not as shiny, it has sun fading on the clear coat.

View attachment 591402
I have tried my best to avoid asking, but I really want to know--why did you post a picture that is not of your car?
 

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2007 DTS VIN Y
Joined
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am suspecting that the shocks & struts are bad, I feel and hear every little bump in the road.
The air system is working and I'd like to try and avoid doing any kind of "bypass kit" or whatever they are called

What shocks & struts are true to this car , a model # or link/website where I can buy them ? I don't want to go through a dealership, rather buy them and pay a friend to install them.
 

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Administrator
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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75,429 Posts
Post #4 says the car has the FE1 (VIN Y) soft, passive suspension so no "bypass" or electrical work is needed. I added your car to your username banner in order to make advice easier in the future.

Look at either AC Delco or Monroe shocks and struts in RockAuto.


You will probably need front strut mounts and insulators, too.
 
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