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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have a Cadillac SRX 4.6 V8 for a year (EU model, I live in Belgium) and I have several questions. The MIL light on with the default code:
P0420
P0171
P0174
Is there a relationship with the O2 sensor ?

I want to drain the gearbox and change the filter but I don’t know what reference to take on Rock Auto, could you help me?
I can give the manufacturer's plate references on the gearbox if needed

Thanks,
 

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Hi, check leak on the valve cover, or MAF connector.
For the gearbox filter i have buy the acdelco 96042545 (but i don't change the filter for the moment).
 

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Hi, check leak on the valve cover, or MAF connector.
For the gearbox filter i have buy the acdelco 96042545 (but i don't change the filter for the moment).
Alucard, if SRX9 has the 6 speed transmission, which I believe was used in the V8, Rockauto lists a different part number for it. I don't know what model year SRX9 has. The part number you listed is good for my 5 speed, as well as WIX 58545 which I used last time I changed filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello,
My car is from february 2006, i think it's 5 speed.
I have already changed the MAF because of another fault code, I will check the connector.
I also wish to order this kit (ACDELCO 96042545) but apparently, it doesn’t deliver the seal (gasket) of crankcase! While it is necessary to disassemble the crankcase to change the filter, so it is necessary to put a new crankcase seal.
What do you think ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
*I changed the MAF because of error codes P0102 and P0113, since the change, these defaults are no longer returned
 

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Hi all,

I have a Cadillac SRX 4.6 V8 for a year (EU model, I live in Belgium) and I have several questions. The MIL light on with the default code:
P0420
P0171
P0174
Is there a relationship with the O2 sensor ?

I want to drain the gearbox and change the filter but I don’t know what reference to take on Rock Auto, could you help me?
I can give the manufacturer's plate references on the gearbox if needed

Thanks,
About the MIL DTC codes. If your vehicle has +100.000km, it's a good idea to check the bolts holding the intake manifold. They become loose over time, giving air to bypass and causing 1 or more cylinders to run too lean, resulting in DTC:p0420 and later P030X. Mine were all loose after +/-100k, causing lean burn on cylinder #1, resulting in a burnt valve and compression loss in cold run, becoming normal in hot driving conditions. Running on LPG made things accelerate, unfortunately :-( . Going to replace both cylinder heads in November (also in Belgium) by remanufactured ones with hardened seats and valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi flymirage,

I checked the intake manifold screws and indeed, they were totally unscrewed! how is this possible with just 110,000 km? I tightened the screws, clear the faults and now the MIL is no longer displayed. A big thank you for your help! The fact that the intake manifold was not tight was it able to do damage to the engine? (The car runs on gasoline, no gas).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The bank 1 on the SRX 4.6 v8 is driver or passenger side (for LHD of course)?
 

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Hi flymirage,

I checked the intake manifold screws and indeed, they were totally unscrewed! how is this possible with just 110,000 km? I tightened the screws, clear the faults and now the MIL is no longer displayed. A big thank you for your help! The fact that the intake manifold was not tight was it able to do damage to the engine? (The car runs on gasoline, no gas).
I believe, because of the coefficient of expansion of the nylon-80 inlet manifold. Plastics expand way much more when heated than metal, in this case the bolts. Every heating cycle, the bolts may get stretched a bit. I secured them with loctite, just to be sure. If you were not driving too long with the MIL P0420 you may have prevented worse. Anyway, another issue to keep an eye on is the oil level in the transfer case behind the automatic gearbox. The drive chain will come slack after years, causing it to jump over the sprockets with a hard clunking noise. If you accelerate from 0kmh with full throttle in hot engine condition, you can induce this clunking. Replacing the chain 200€ is the issue, or the entire transfer case for about 1k€ reman @ rockauto.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will also put loctite on the screws. I drained the transfer case and I put the Dexron 6 and I have no noise by doing a 'race' start in hot engine conditions.
However, since I have the car, I notice that when I turn the steering wheel completely at very low speed (to reverse into a parking space for example), there is "clak clac clac" that come from the transfer case (I think), but a mechanic friend told me it was normal, do you also have this noise on yours?
 

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I will also put loctite on the screws. I drained the transfer case and I put the Dexron 6 and I have no noise by doing a 'race' start in hot engine conditions.
However, since I have the car, I notice that when I turn the steering wheel completely at very low speed (to reverse into a parking space for example), there is "clak clac clac" that come from the transfer case (I think), but a mechanic friend told me it was normal, do you also have this noise on yours?
That IS the transfer case, most owners mention exactly that kind of clicking noise referring to the transfer case. But a car with 100k simply starts to suffer from a worn and stretched chain. I'm driving my car always carefully and nevertheless mine suffers from this typical SRX N* problems. I only have that clunking noise appearing after driving like 30kms and over, obviously, then the transfer case -and chain- are getting hot too. I just hope that it will last for about 1000kms more... Then the entire engine goes out, replacing TC, cyl. heads and other consumables. If I have to sell it right now, I get a scrap price only and there's no alternative car on the market with similar driving performance and comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When turning sharp only? Are you sure that's not the rear diff?
Yes only by turning the steering wheel below 20 km/h (when the steering wheel is almost turned to the maximum).

That IS the transfer case, most owners mention exactly that kind of clicking noise referring to the transfer case. But a car with 100k simply starts to suffer from a worn and stretched chain. I'm driving my car always carefully and nevertheless mine suffers from this typical SRX N* problems. I only have that clunking noise appearing after driving like 30kms and over, obviously, then the transfer case -and chain- are getting hot too. I just hope that it will last for about 1000kms more... Then the entire engine goes out, replacing TC, cyl. heads and other consumables. If I have to sell it right now, I get a scrap price only and there's no alternative car on the market with similar driving performance and comfort.
I have never paid attention to this detail but I also seem to have the problem when the oil is cold, but I will check.
I will try to make a video of the sound of this supposed case transfer.
This kind of car is very hard to sell on the Belgian market with taxes ...
 

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I mentioned the rear diff because I've seen a lot of discussion about 'popping' from limited slip diffs in tight turns (when one wheel is travelling faster than the other) if the fluid is low or not the correct type. My 2007 srx had some popping in the rear diff clutch pack when I got it; when I drained the existing fluid and refilled with lucas 75w-90 the pop went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think you are right! I noticed a slight oil leak in the rear differential, so the level shouldn't be good, I'll drain it and hear if the noise disappears.
Another question, do you know where I can order specific parts for the SRX? As for example, the plastic part surrounded in red (the fasteners are broken).
RockAuto doesn't offer this kind of original part.
 

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