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Discussion Starter #1
So, we just bought a 2006 SRX, from a used car dealer, with 179,000 miles. on Friday morning.
It is the V6 engine and it does have high miles, but the car is supper clean. I know that doesn't mean much, LOL!
Drove it off the lot and filled the tank up with regular unleaded fuel.
Drove the car all day Friday, on hwy, city streets, cross town and back. car ran great, no issues.
Parked the car over night. Next late morning, drove the car to store, ran great at first, then on the way back, started sputtering, for lack of better word, and idling rough,while stopped at a stop light.
Upon acceleration, car was sputtering (missing) and the CEL, started flashing. it continued this till home, but did not set a solid light.
Took the car for a drive, and was sputtering at first. then shifted it to sport mode and it cleared up,( coincidence, im sure) and ran then ran fine.
I got on the hwy and accelerated hard, drove fast, drove slow, stopped and accelerated from stop, still nothing, car ran great.
Then once I got off the hwy, headed home, it stated again, with blinking light and finally set a solid Cel.
I checked for codes, on my OBD2 reader, but it read zeroes, no code.
I cleared the CEL, so that I could test and get light again to take it somewhere to get codes read.
The next morning I drove the care, to try to set a CEL, and the car ran great again, for a while and then finally started sputtering and flashing cell, but did not set solid, then the engine cleared up and ran fine again and never set any CEL, to be tested or read.
The car has a recent, Passed smog test, within the last few days.

I know it is having a Misfire, but why intermittent?
Why is my reader not reading any codes?
Is it possible that my code reader is out dated or not compatible?
If so , what is a good affordable scanner tool, to replace my reader?

sorry for long winded post, but wanted to include all exact facts.
Without any code, I don't really know where to start looking.
 

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2007 SRX AWD
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124 Posts
So, we just bought a 2006 SRX, from a used car dealer, with 179,000 miles. on Friday morning.
It is the V6 engine and it does have high miles, but the car is supper clean. I know that doesn't mean much, LOL!
Drove it off the lot and filled the tank up with regular unleaded fuel.
Drove the car all day Friday, on hwy, city streets, cross town and back. car ran great, no issues.
Parked the car over night. Next late morning, drove the car to store, ran great at first, then on the way back, started sputtering, for lack of better word, and idling rough,while stopped at a stop light.
Upon acceleration, car was sputtering (missing) and the CEL, started flashing. it continued this till home, but did not set a solid light.
Took the car for a drive, and was sputtering at first. then shifted it to sport mode and it cleared up,( coincidence, im sure) and ran then ran fine.
I got on the hwy and accelerated hard, drove fast, drove slow, stopped and accelerated from stop, still nothing, car ran great.
Then once I got off the hwy, headed home, it stated again, with blinking light and finally set a solid Cel.
I checked for codes, on my OBD2 reader, but it read zeroes, no code.
I cleared the CEL, so that I could test and get light again to take it somewhere to get codes read.
The next morning I drove the care, to try to set a CEL, and the car ran great again, for a while and then finally started sputtering and flashing cell, but did not set solid, then the engine cleared up and ran fine again and never set any CEL, to be tested or read.
The car has a recent, Passed smog test, within the last few days.

I know it is having a Misfire, but why intermittent?
Why is my reader not reading any codes?
Is it possible that my code reader is out dated or not compatible?
If so , what is a good affordable scanner tool, to replace my reader?

sorry for long winded post, but wanted to include all exact facts.
Without any code, I don't really know where to start looking.
Could it be bad fuel? I had a similar thing 30 years ago with a LeBaron. Filled up in Whitefish Montana at an old style garage and then started getting 'sputtering' usually when I was passing a vehicle. Visited two Chrystler places who put it on a scope and was told I have valve problems. We went to visit the Custer memoriaI and then I decided to drive carefully home to Alberta and on my way through Whitefish there was a no regular fuel sign at the garage, so I enquired as to why and it turned out heavy rains had cause water to get into their buried tanks. They wouldn't take any responsibility for my issue although I had receipts, so I drove on and finally gased up again and from then on everything cleared up, for the rest of the time I owned the car, but I had spent over $200 in service departments.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
bbc0, that was my first thought, but the problem is intermittent.
After the CEL came on the first time, i hooked up my OBDII reader and it just read zero. No code.
I ran the scan a couple times with same result., so i erased the light with the reader and also disconnected the battery, which i probably should not have done.
I was hoping the CEL would just trigger again and i would take it somewhere and have them read the codes.
But, the car ran fine and cold not get CEL back on.
Yesterday, however, after a bit of city driving, it started acting up again and finaly the CEL came on hard again.
I took the car to AutoZone and had them read the codes. Their reader read just fine, no problem. So i guess my reader is just outdated. It would not even work on my 2012 Tundra, either.
Any way the DTC was loged as a cylinder #6 misfire, P0306.
Their printout said likely an injector, but it can just as well be a coil or plug or a couple other things.
Ill start with the injector, first, though.
 

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2007 SRX AWD
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124 Posts
Sounds like you are zero-ing in on it. Sounds like your scanner is toast though. Too bad!
 

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08 STS 1SG HUD ACC F55 AWD, 08 STS 1SG Platinum HUD ACC F55 RWD
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Personally I would start with the spark plug - and while there swap coils from another cylinder. If problem is fixed = it was the plug. If the problem moves to the other cylinder = problem is the coil so replace it. Always start with the cheapest/easiest fix and work toward the outrageous/costliest fix.
 
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