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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Intro is here: Bought Another One: 2006 DTS (#2)

The previous owner indicated the no-start was due to the starter so off we went with a Wilson Reman replacement.

We took our time taking it apart (daughter and myself) to make sure to clean things as we went along and to keep track of all of the parts. Prior to starting a good blast of air was used to get all of the loose stuff out to reduce the chances of anything getting in during the removal process.

Fuel rails and other items removed prior to loosening the rubber grommet mating the manifold to the throttle body:

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Rim


The manifold removed:
Motor vehicle Font Gas Auto part Automotive tire


The portion of the valley on the left had oil in it while the right under the starter was totally dry. Given the amount of loose oil in the manifold it's a puzzle as far as where all that oil came from. Could be oil changes and spillage or it could be the funky looking "bolt cover" on the bottom backside of the manifold that is possibly set up to punch oil out when the manifold gets pressurized?

Fuel doing its job keeping the valves clean:
Household hardware Gas Bumper Tool Metal


Throttle body bore:
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Wheel Helmet


Found a present after removing the starter:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Rim


The new starter in place:
Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive exterior


I had to refer back to the original pics taken prior to starting the removal process to verify which way the rubber grommet went!

FYI: Pushing the grommet all the way on to the manifold so that the throttle body side is short on one side makes it easy to get the manifold back into place.

I used the same torque sequence that would be used to torque a head down to get to the 89 in/lbs required (75 --> 80 --> 89 inner to outer pattern):
Automotive tire Grille Automotive lighting Hood Bumper


The fuel injector bores were cleaned and prepped with dielectric grease prior to installing it as were the rubber O-Rings on the injectors.

All back together:
Car Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive air manifold Automotive design


When we went to start no joy. :(

A dig on the forum brought me to checking the engine fuse box and sure enough:
Rectangle Gas Bumper Electric blue Font


Audio equipment Electronic instrument Electrical wiring Circuit component Technology


There was mention of a relay burning out so here we are.

There's a number of them available on FleaBay and a few wreckers here in Canuckistan. I'll have the fuse block on order today.

EDIT: Note, while the old starter was in the battery was connected to test for ground. + on the starter to block = 12V + on the starter to firewall = 12V so ground was solid.

Hopefully, this will end the odyssey! :)
 

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'93 SedanDeville 60 Special
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You could look at the top of the bad relay as to the part # and then just for a test for a start is take one of the other relays with same part # that would not affect startup to test and see if that solves no crank issue

Or if having the wiring schematic is jumper the wiring pins of fuse box to test starting test
 

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2006 DTS
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You could look at the top of the bad relay as to the part # and then just for a test for a start is take one of the other relays with same part # that would not affect startup to test and see if that solves no crank issue

Or if having the wiring schematic is jumper the wiring pins of fuse box to test starting test
That doesn’t look burnt to me as much as corroded, is there a spot water is getting into the fuse box?
 

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You would think with the fuse cover properly on that water would not just get under that relay firmly plugged in only that small area and nothing next to it
Anything is possible but also looks like high current load heat (bad battery) caused heat

Still be a quick easy way to see of replacing starter and cleaning up the spade female lugs and borrow another relay within fuse box if the OP then knows not a loss of money replacing starter if was not the cause of no crank

Font Gas Art Technology Electronic device
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know it's a bit too late, but you should have gone with an OE new replacement starter.
The dealer closest to us quoted a reman unit at three times the cost of the Wilson we picked up via PartSource here in town.

I've put quite a few Wilson units in vehicles and have done well with them.

Irony is the unit I pulled is a Wilson so now we have a spare if the one in our '04 DeVille DTS goes or this one in the '06 goes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That doesn’t look burnt to me as much as corroded, is there a spot water is getting into the fuse box?
The box cover is in good shape while the inner cover just above the fuses doesn't lock in place correctly.

I'm not seeing anything overt as far as water goes it's just this one relay.

Toy Rectangle Gas Technology Wood

Here's a better shot of the relay. Note the top left pin is anodized. The top right one has carbon build-up on it.

Is there some sort of coolant fluid inside the relay because that's what it looks like to me. The relay cooked, a seal broke, and fluid made its way out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You would think with the fuse cover properly on that water would not just get under that relay firmly plugged in only that small area and nothing next to it
Anything is possible but also looks like high current load heat (bad battery) caused heat

Still be a quick easy way to see of replacing starter and cleaning up the spade female lugs and borrow another relay within fuse box if the OP then knows not a loss of money replacing starter if was not the cause of no crank

View attachment 621451
I've already did the relay juggling to see if anything changed.

The previous battery was a no-name country store type and it was dead. Not bloated, but definitely dead.

We picked up a decent battery from the local Canadian Tire with the proper group configuration. Everything lit up real nice after it went in.

The local dealer has one of these relays in stock. I'm heading there right now as they are only 15 minutes away.

I'll try to clean what I can in the fuse block and install the replacement relay to see if anything happens.

Thanks folks! :)
 

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98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
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He's in Canada, look at corrosion on aluminum parts. Not uncommon at all for gm fuse panels rot from behind unfortunately. The trucks seem to be the worst about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
He's in Canada, look at corrosion on aluminum parts. Not uncommon at all for gm fuse panels rot from behind unfortunately. The trucks seem to be the worst about it.
Popped in the new fuse and nothing. We can hear the relay to the right click with the ignition on but not this one.

I've lifted the fuse panel a bit to catch a glimpse and the circuit board under the fuse panel does look like it's messed up.

Doing a search now to see how to get the assembly out ...

EDIT: Did the fuel pump relay swap as per: 2008 DTS cranks but won't start
No go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As I'm digging through I'm seeing signs that many of the things I've looked at have been touched so someone went over all of the "easy" items if you will.

I found a good YT video of a 2008 DTS no-start here:

I checked the wiring harness at the PCM to make sure everything was good and it is.

I also plugged in our OBDI/II code reader and it looks like someone cleared the codes as the well was dry.

Question: I'd like to do the jumper test to get the starter to turn the motor. I'm not 100% sure which relay that would be? Please and thanks.

In the process of searching I came across: DTS fuel pump relay under seat back

The fuel relay under the seat is good from what I can see but next up is to pick up one of those glow testers to verify power.

That being said, I took the fuel pump cover off in the trunk to verify the wiring harnesses are okay which they look to be and discovered that there's no fuel pump pulse when I key ON.

After all of this I'm further ahead than behind. :)

Now to delve into the fuel pump relay, as above, but also to verify power at the fuel pump.

Question: Wouldn't a dead fuel pump or relay throw a code that can be read?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bad pump or relay won't throw any codes usually, on occasion pump will. For all the sensors and doohickies You'd think FP would throw a code.
Thanks for confirming.

I'm thinking an easy test from here is key ON and test for power at the pump. If it's there and there's no action by the pump that's the next replacement item.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
We picked up the complete Lisle Master Relay and Fused Circuit Test Kit since the cost of the kit relative to replacing parts, and spending a whole swack of my valuable time doing that, makes it worth it.

The project has been on hold until the kit showed up. Now onwards and upwards. :)

Product Rectangle Font Schematic Engineering


The above is the crude starter diagram including the wiring diagram. I've attached it as well as the original is a much higher resolution and the wiring diagram is legible.

The fuse box labels don't really line up with the wiring diagram labels for the relays now do they? :(

I'm working on a diagram for the fuel pump.
 

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