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Well I bought this 2005 on ebay dumped 4k into crossing the street from dealer in florida "perfect shape car" cause well rotors grinding metal were not getting me back to new mexico. Plus the engine temp went up 5 degrees with every gas tank refill weird right? O ring missing from fill tank would expand but wouldn't put fluid back. 4 dollar fix.
Since then Ls7 clutch and flywheel upgrade.
Texas driveline did a complete regear and hardened transmission to hold up to 1400hp in the future" thought I might want a 6.2 drop in later."
New shocks had it lowered just a touch nothing gangster since my perfect car had the springs cut to lower it when I got it. dealer called it a "lowering kit"
Had to take it to a body shop to get the front and rear cradles perfectly aligned as I found out most gm dealers don't have the tools to do a simple alignment on these cars... but they will charge you for a half ass. job.
Added some rear suspension and a anti roll j brace to the rear axle to prevent axle wrap.
some light tuning on stock computer with the new gear ratios and 115mph in 3rd vs 90 with stock trans made for much nicer quarter times reducing the shift.
So I get down to where my daily driver is a good once a month play toy and bam 2 blocks from house the engine dies.
No starter noise except click. genius mechanic put breaker bar on front of engine barely pulled said yup engine locked.
Well I have locked up a few engines in my day and its not instant and they tend to make the typical sounds of death is coming prior.
So since I had to have someone else put my trans in I suspected starter didn't retract and IT frozen more likely.
got under there myself even though I shouldn't I see a 3rd hole and suspect there should be a starter brace in place like most chevy trucks have and this sloted starter looks like it might have adjustability that wasn't done but haven't got it out completely yet.
Frankly its been 6 months because I have extreme nerve damage now and neuropathy in both my arms and legs and I know once the car starts the 20k I dumped into getting it ready for a bigger engine wont happen since I shouldn't have that much horsepower in my current condition so once it starts it goes up for sale.
Before I struggle taking exhaust off. OH yeah new exhaust. Tell you I did that twice. first I dropped the stock resonator for a flowmaster super 15 for corvettes no mufflers. Pretty close to sounding like you driving nascar around the house. and the neighbors started to get vocal about that. It was VERY loud. switch to the longer magnaflow resonator no mufflers and sporty without the stupid even on straight pipe out the back of resonator.
So has anyone else seen a starter lock that engine before or was it wild guessing on my part that I haven't got the work done to prove yet. because before I put a break over bar on front of a high compression motor to test lock well I would pull plugs and expect to hear some metal on metal starter slap. see holes in aluminum block etc. Oil spraying typical something locked up reasoning.
I put a ton of money into the car to make it "safe" at 150mph I live in southern New mexico so 120 miles of open road and nothing every direction.
I have 2 3 pedal cars that have to go but trying not to take a complete bath by selling a non running car. My 66 Fairlane just going to have to trailer to a big city to sell and get money out of it. Quit being able to drive it 2 years ago that cluth is a lot more dump truck than race car of todays.
For anyone wondering if ls7 clutch, flywheel was worth it. YES super smooth after that.
Texas Driveline did my trans. would say worth every penny x 2 don't be afraid to ask to widen the ratios on these cars its left over from the 90's corvette when they had 220 hp. makes them much much friendlier on street and a hair better on the track. Plus way it works is my 6th gear 80mph is 31mpg so it was paying for itself with some rpm reduction up high.
I see the drop the cat remarks but it looks my starter is hitting on my new front coil over being bigger. but I may get more twist dropping the cat which what I came here to look up today got into this rant.
 

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One more note on lowering these cars you can't go more than 1 inch lower than stock no matter who tells you can and get the rear to adjust properly so you can align the front with it. Your tires in the rear WILL not displace weight properly. How do I know? on 2 inch lower lays flat on ground looked right drove great. but rear tires air pressure would climb while driving down the highway. Had 2 inner walls "pop" from long drives like I said 250 miles one way anywhere around here. Took me forever to figure out extra weight on inner wall from extra inch was causing extra flex and weakening rubber. Took the inch which is why I spent $3500 on a proper kit which "raised" the car height 1 inch from "custom" spring cut. but aligned. 3 x by 3 different setups including GM. Once I made that change no air pressure climb no more wall blowouts. Normally walls are not covered by warranty on tire but luckily I buy a large amount of tires and was given benefit of doubt. Just a weird warning before someone goes and blows money like I did.
 
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