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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2005 Cadillac Deville about 3 weeks ago with123,000 miles allegedly traded in by an older granny owner. The car looks well inside and out and drived well I had a very trusted mechanic look over the car for days & do some work on the car for much cheaper than a shop. I took a trip to Memphis from Orlando the car had no issues what so ever during the trip. As day after the trip my check oil level came on my oil was extremely low by the time it ended (no oil on the dipstick). I was recommended to add 1 then 2 more (totalling 3) quarts of oil the warming went away the stick had a bit more oil on it. Car drove fine the whole day until night after getting off a short highway it started hard jerking when I switched gears I now have it parked at a Walgreens and am not going to drive it any help is appreciated
 

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Super Moderator SEMPER PARATUS
2003 DeVille Base
Joined
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4,480 Posts
Welcome to the forums! First thing is to check for DTC's. Your car has a built in code scanner. You can find instructions in a stickie at the top of the Deville page. Post the codes with definitions here and you will get advice. I'm a little confused about the problem--you mention transmission, but you added oil. So what did you add and where?
 

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2005 Deville
Joined
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the forums! First thing is to check for DTC's. Your car has a built in code scanner. You can find instructions in a stickie at the top of the Deville page. Post the codes with definitions here and you will get advice. I'm a little confused about the problem--you mention transmission, but you added oil. So what did you add and where?
A day after my trip from Orlando to Memphis I added engine oil which was earlier today after my oil level light came on and I checked my dip stick which had no oil on it whatsoever. The trip used up some of just about every fluid possible under the hood. Some more than others. The one fluid I haven’t checked which I’m about to is my transmission fluid which could be low and does cause hard shifting. I will check the codes and post them in a little
 

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2005 Deville
Joined
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the forums! First thing is to check for DTC's. Your car has a built in code scanner. You can find instructions in a stickie at the top of the Deville page. Post the codes with definitions here and you will get advice. I'm a little confused about the problem--you mention transmission, but you added oil. So what did you add and where?
No ABS codes

No amp codes

No dm codes

No dim codes

ipc u10000 current

ipc u1301 history

ipm b0429 current

ipm b1004 history

irc u1016 history

no lrd codes

no msm codes

pcm p1106 history

pcm p1811 history

no pdm codes

no rcc codes

no rfa codes

rim C0658

rrd codes

no sdm codes

no vtd codes
 

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Super Moderator SEMPER PARATUS
2003 DeVille Base
Joined
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4,480 Posts
okay, we're making progress but there are several thousand codes and no one has them memorized. Go here for definitions: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

when you check transmission fluid, be sure the engine/trans are at operating temperature, engine running, in park, on level ground. It's a dry sump transmission and with engine off there will be no fluid visible or on the dipstick.
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
okay, we're making progress but there are several thousand codes and no one has them memorized. Go here for definitions: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

when you check transmission fluid, be sure the engine/trans are at operating temperature, engine running, in park, on level ground. It's a dry sump transmission and with engine off there will be no fluid visible or on the dipstick.
Awesome thanks for your support and yes I have the Manual in reading it now I have to remove he air filter and assembly but don’t have the right tool some sort of wrench a torque wrench is needed so I can get to the cap I believe the fluids are low cuz I tested the transition of the gears as instructed by the manual in park and they all were fine....the car has been sitting for a while so that may have helped
 

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2004 Deville base
'05 SRX N*/AWD, Vetts/Birds/Trucks
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388 Posts
The trip from ORL to MEM is about 800mi.
3 quarts used OR lost/leaked is a lot of oil in 12 hrs run time.

What was the oil dipstick level in ORL?
How 'oily' is the undercarriage?
 

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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,136 Posts
B 0429 says the air/temp door for the rear seat HVAC console is faulty. Not a big deal. All the History codes will self-clear in time.

The 4T80E transmission is a dry sump unit. There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.

Check fluid level with the engine running in P, hot, on a level surface. DO NOT overfill.

The original fluid was DEXRON-III that was superceded by DEXRON-VI in about 2006. They're 100% compatible so you can use -VI for a top-up.

Transmission fill neck - cold OFF.JPG
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The trip from ORL to MEM is about 800mi.
3 quarts used OR lost/leaked is a lot of oil in 12 hrs run time.

What was the oil dipstick level in ORL?
How 'oily' is the undercarriage?
I agree that is a lot of oil lost I did some research on these cars and it’s not uncommon for them to guzzle oil like that though. The dipstick oil level was well into the ideal area probably a little above half way. There is absolutely no leaks of any kind under the carriage I am going to purchase a torx wrench to remove my air filter assembly to check my transmission fluid
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
B 0429 says the air/temp door for the rear seat HVAC console is faulty. Not a big deal. All the History codes will self-clear in time.

The 4T80E transmission is a dry sump unit. There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.

Check fluid level with the engine running in P, hot, on a level surface. DO NOT overfill.

The original fluid was DEXRON-III that was superceded by DEXRON-VI in about 2006. They're 100% compatible so you can use -VI for a top-up.

View attachment 575002
I don’t even see a dip stick in he picture that resembles what the books looks like and at what point should there be no fluid on the dipstick and the engine off for 10 minutes?
The manual says the same thing your saying about how to refill it I am a bit confused by the picture and this phrase though “The 4T80E transmission is a dry sump unit. There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.”.....
 

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Super Moderator SEMPER PARATUS
2003 DeVille Base
Joined
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4,480 Posts
I don’t even see a dip stick in he picture that resembles what the books looks like and at what point should there be no fluid on the dipstick and the engine off for 10 minutes?
The manual says the same thing your saying about how to refill it I am a bit confused by the picture and this phrase though “The 4T80E transmission is a dry sump unit. There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.”.....
"at what point should there be no fluid on the dipstick and the engine off for 10 minutes?" that point would be engine off and sitting for at least 10 minutes. don't know how to make it any more clear than that.

Google dry sump vs wet sump.
 

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Super Moderator SEMPER PARATUS
2003 DeVille Base
Joined
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4,480 Posts
I agree that is a lot of oil lost I did some research on these cars and it’s not uncommon for them to guzzle oil like that though. The dipstick oil level was well into the ideal area probably a little above half way. There is absolutely no leaks of any kind under the carriage I am going to purchase a torx wrench to remove my air filter assembly to check my transmission fluid
not sure where you found the "guzzle" research but you couldn't prove it by me. My car is at 151K, doesn't leak a drop and I might--might--add a quart between oil changes. btw, the check oil level light comes on at 2 quarts low. If you're filling it to the top of the cross hatches, you're overfilling . Correct level is middle of the cross hatches.
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
"at what point should there be no fluid on the dipstick and the engine off for 10 minutes?" that point would be engine off and sitting for at least 10 minutes. don't know how to make it any more clear than that.

Google dry sump vs wet sump.
I’ll try to be more specific ok so
There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.......ok...so is this before or after checking the fluid level with the engine running in park,hot, on a level surface?
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
not sure where you found the "guzzle" research but you couldn't prove it by me. My car is at 151K, doesn't leak a drop and I might--might--add a quart between oil changes. btw, the check oil level light comes on at 2 quarts low. If you're filling it to the top of the cross hatches, you're overfilling . Correct level is middle of the cross hatches.
I agree middle of the cross hatches is where the oil was when I left Orlando goodlook on that 2 quart warning. My doesn’t leak at all either. I just got back to my car after walking to get the tools and transmission oil recommended dexron VI about to remove my air filter assembly and test the oil. Also


B 0429 says the air/temp door for the rear seat HVAC console is faulty. Not a big deal. All the History codes will self-clear in time.

The 4T80E transmission is a dry sump unit. There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.

Check fluid level with the engine running in P, hot, on a level surface. DO NOT overfill.

The original fluid was DEXRON-III that was superceded by DEXRON-VI in about 2006. They're 100% compatible so you can use -VI for a top-up.

View attachment 575002
I get what you were saying here now about if the engine has been off for 10 minutes the dip stick should be dry

Does anybody know if I can simply detach the radiator hose from the air filter to get to the cap without causing a problem because I’m having a hard time getting the air filter assembly off

The hose can it be detached to get to the cap without taking the whole compartment apart
 

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Super Moderator SEMPER PARATUS
2003 DeVille Base
Joined
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4,480 Posts
I’ll try to be more specific ok so
There should be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off for 10 minutes.......ok...so is this before or after checking the fluid level with the engine running in park,hot, on a level surface?
Okay, I see the confusion. The engine off at least 10 minutes. So if you check it in the morning, or if you've driving then shut down at least 10 minutes there should be no fluid visible.
 

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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,136 Posts
The engine runs, the torque converter spins, the transmission scavenge and pressure pumps operate. Almost all the fluid in the pan is pumped up into the side tank - which is where the dipstick is. So, with the engine running in P on a level surface you measure fluid level. The "no fluid on the dipstick with the engine off" is a caution against overfilling.

There is no need to disconnect the top radiator hose to get to the transmission dipstick.

Your engine should easily get 2,000 - 4,000 miles to a quart of 5W-30 oil. Mine gets over 6,000. You probably need to aggressively exercise the engine out in the boondocks.

Study this - all of it. Written by a CF member who was a GM Northstar Systems powertrain engineer. It was written before the 2000 changeover to roller cams, so some of it is obsolete, as is the section on the discontinued use of cooling system sealant tablets. Read the WOT section - "Occasional full throttle operation is good ..."


This is a Seville engine compartment, the air intake system and surge tank is a bit different, but the parts ID is the same as your Deville. Which model - base, DHS, DTS ? It makes a difference in advice. You NEED to subscribe the car to the online GM/Cadillac service manuals - www.alldatadiy.com

Butt plug & air box 2 notes.JPG
 

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Super Moderator SEMPER PARATUS
2003 DeVille Base
Joined
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4,480 Posts
I agree middle of the cross hatches is where the oil was when I left Orlando goodlook on that 2 quart warning. My doesn’t leak at all either. I just got back to my car after walking to get the tools and transmission oil recommended dexron VI about to remove my air filter assembly and test the oil. Also



I get what you were saying here now about if the engine has been off for 10 minutes the dip stick should be dry

Does anybody know if I can simply detach the radiator hose from the air filter to get to the cap without causing a problem because I’m having a hard time getting the air filter assembly off

The hose can it be detached to get to the cap without taking the whole compartment apart
maybe the 2005 is different from my 2003. I don't remove any radiator hose or air box assembly to get to the tranny dipstick. Granted, it's a tight space. Are you able to take a picture and post it?
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The engine runs, the torque converter spins, the transmission scavenge and pressure pumps operate. Almost all the fluid in the pan is pumped up into the side tank - which is where the dipstick is. So, with the engine running in P on a level surface you measure fluid level. The "no fluid on the dipstick with the engine off" is a caution against overfilling.

There is no need to disconnect the top radiator hose to get to the transmission dipstick.

Your engine should easily get 2,000 - 4,000 miles to a quart of 5W-30 oil. Mine gets over 6,000. You probably need to aggressively exercise the engine out in the boondocks.

Study this - all of it. Written by a CF member who was a GM Northstar Systems powertrain engineer. It was written before the 2000 changeover to roller cams, so some of it is obsolete, as is the section on the discontinued use of cooling system sealant tablets. Read the WOT section - "Occasional full throttle operation is good ..."


This is a Seville engine compartment, the air intake system and surge tank is a bit different, but the parts ID is the same as your Deville. Which model - base, DHS, DTS ? It makes a difference in advice. You NEED to subscribe the car to the online GM/Cadillac service manuals - www.alldatadiy.com

View attachment 575011
I think I see the confusion a lot of you guys which I greatly appreciate are naming what I see as a cap a dipstick...the black circular object with trans fluid on it. If so no it has never had fluid on it even when the car has been off for over 10 minutes. Right now I’m struggling with getting to that to check my levels a radiator hose and a air filter compartment is in the way and I don’t have a swivel or necessary tools to take all bolts out. I’d have to walk back to Walmart to get what’s necessary I’ll post pics

maybe the 2005 is different from my 2003. I don't remove any radiator hose or air box assembly to get to the tranny dipstick. Granted, it's a tight space. Are you able to take a picture and post it?
There you go

There you go
575013
88FF85DA-AD6A-4A07-8024-D514BAF6D8E0.jpeg
 

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2005 Deville
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
maybe the 2005 is different from my 2003. I don't remove any radiator hose or air box assembly to get to the tranny dipstick. Granted, it's a tight space. Are you able to take a picture and post it?
Another pic

maybe the 2005 is different from my 2003. I don't remove any radiator hose or air box assembly to get to the tranny dipstick. Granted, it's a tight space. Are you able to take a picture and post it?
575015
BEDB3353-C044-4A60-BAA6-6A76102D0812.jpeg
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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67,136 Posts
OK - that "hose" you're worried about is the intake hose for the AIR blower. Simply unclip the clamp and move it out of the way. Yes, when you twist/pull the black cap you'll see the dipstick feature.

You're wasting time and money with that cutesy K&N filter. Any oil carryover ant that $135 MAF is toast.

The second picture - the airbox is retained by a machune screw or two and that rubber-lined brace is one of the mounting studs - just slides out when the main retainers are removed. Did you say Torx screws?

You really need the GM service manuals for reference - you're now flying blind with a car that bears NO resemblance to what you may be familiar with.

GM service manuals - Chilton and Haynes are far, far too generic to be of any help.

Please stop shotgunning out posts 1 minute apart - wait for info to come, study a bit, them make a summary post/question. Thanks.
 
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