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I have seen a number of different "cures" for wheel hop in an 05 CTS-V. What is the expert opinion on the cure now?

My V has a Volant CAI, Corsa Exhaust, Hurst shifter, BMR Carrier support brace and a base tune. Thinking about a cam and headers but need to kill the wheel hop before I try to put down more power.

I have been careful and tried not to kill the rearend ( baby it out and don't spin the tires ) but it has some whine and it will wheel hop in 3rd gear at times.

BMR has an "anti wheel hop" kit but I have read that upgraded axles are the fix. Anyone had any experience with both?

Anyone done the Ford 8.8 swap?

Thanks for the info!!
 

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05 CTS-V
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I would like to hear what the fix is now, myself. From what I've read, Gforce or Driveshaft Shop axles, combined with new poly cradle bushings from Creative Steel or Revshift were the fix just a few years ago. I doubt things have changed much, but if people are having luck with a newer alternative I would definitely like to hear it myself.
The BMR kit seems like it helps with handling and maybe mildly reduces wheel hop, but I wouldn't count on it by itself.
Creative Steel makes a bolt in 8.8" kit that a lot of end users in here reported is amazing! I don't have a $3600 budget to drop on a new rear end yet, but I would say if you want a solution that gives you 110% confidence in the reliability and strength of your diff, go with the CS kit. If you want a more wallet-friendly fix, do the axles and bushings, and maybe add the BMR kit and possibly their toe & trailing arms for added strength and stability, which all in all would be about $1300-1400 or so, but could be done over time and give you immediate results with each part.
 

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2016 ATS Premium 6-spd MT
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Aftermarket axles and cradle bushings is the way to go. I have both and have no wheelhop.

Previously, I had a KARSIII with cradle bushings and had some WH. Never had a BMR but never heard good results either.

A word of caution: Another member here had axles (can't recall if he also had bushings) and had no WH. After a number of spirited driving episodes, he grenaded his diff. This meant to me that the only REAL solution is to install an 8.8" or 9" diff.
 

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2005 CTS-V Maggied
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My mod progression went like this. I bought the car at what I'm calling "stage0".

I will rate the Wheel hop on a scale from 1-10, where 1 is All the time wheel-hop, and 10 is No wheel-hop

Stage0 Rating 3/10
Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires
3rd Gen CTS-V Diff
GM TSB cradle bushing inserts
BMR Pinion Brace
Stock new diff bushing

I bought the car with the above diff improvements. Wheel hop was Horrible. The TSB bushings squeaked unless greased once a week (I didn't even drive in the rain). Diff whine was noticeable but not terrible.

Stage1 Rating 4/10
Michelin Pilot Super Sports tires
Removed TSB bushing inserts
BMR AWH kit
BMR Pinion brace
CS Diff bushing
Revshift trailing arm bushing

This step eliminated a bit of wheel-hop that I was experiencing at low speed/low throttle. Adding the BMR Anti Wheel-hop kit reduced the hop but also increased the diff whine slightly.

Stage1.5 Rating 4/10
DSS Carbon 1 piece Driveshaft (replaced stock DS at this time due to blown out carrier bearing bushing that was non-serviceable at the time)

This step had no effect on wheelhop, but eliminated some clunking I was getting from the stock DS.

Stage2 6/10
Stage1 + Geforce Econo axles (both sides)
Amsoil Severe Gear Fluid upgrade from stock fluid.

This step eliminated even more of the wheel-hop with no degradations in whine from the previous stage1 mods.

Stage3 Rating 8/10
Stage2+ Revshift diff bushing (removed CS part) +Revshift cradle bushings

This step eliminated even more wheel-hop than stage2, but came with some additional diff whine noise which was almost non-commercial. Passengers would ask what was wrong with my car.... I figured I'd live with the whine if the diff didn't blow up. As I got more comfortable with the car, I pushed it further and further to it's limits and the diff was none too happy. The whine noises progressively got louder and louder until I decided that I was going to retire it before it got any worse.

Stage 3.5 Rating 8.5/10
Removed Stock suspension
Replaced with KW V3 Suspension

This stage made a marginal improvement to most of the wheel hop I was experiencing and made the driving experience much better than it ever was. I still experienced wheel-hop in the rain, but that is basically expected in most vehicles like this.

Stage4 Rating 9/10
Removed Gforce axles
Replaced with DSS 1000hp axles
Removed 3rd Gen CTS-V diff and pinion brace
Replaced with Aluminum ford Cobra 8.8 w/ Ford Racing 3.73 gears and Amsoil SG 75W-140
CS 8.8 kit
CS balljoint Trailing arms
CS poly rear Toe Rods

I went this route to ensure the long term durability of the vehicle and never having to worry about the glass differential as the Achilles heel of the vehicle. Wheel-hop was improved marginally in certain drive conditions from the driving/testing I've done so far. Might be from the new axles or additional weight added from the entire 8.8 setup. It still hops a little in the rain, which is expected. I have the peace of mind now that if/when it does hop, it won't grenade. Diff noise was reduced with this stage, but I also used poly front diff mounts so it could be reduced further if I ever wanted it to be. The whine is mostly noticeable around 45mph in high gears (5-6) and above 80mph. It is acceptable and most would not perceive it.
 

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2005 Cadillac CTS-V
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Anyone have a link to these Hendrix asymmetric axles? Are these the same as the 1000hp axles offered by the Driveshaft Shop at $1,600?
 

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2005 Cadillac CTS-V
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Thanks Darkman - that Hendrix website has the exact same wording/write-up for their products as the Driveshaft Shop website. Are they the same company or do they sell each other's parts - I'm a little confused. Either way, which set-up did you go with - the axle bar upgrade (where you send in your stock axles and they "build" you a set capable of handling 1,000hp for about $560) or the full axle 1,000hp set for $1,600?
 

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05 Stealth Gray V
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I've got an 05 with an 8.8, full DSS axles, carbon shaft, poly cradle bushings and mine (with a stock engine) wheel hops severely. I had the exact same rearend/cradle/driveshaft in another car (which had a maggie, cam, headers 502rwhp) and it would do burnouts like nobodies business. It seems to me the real fix is tons of horsepower but I'm attempting to build some "traction bars/subframe connectors" to help locate the cradle so it doesn't move around.

My motivation is based mostly on this.... http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1614912-pics-my-solid-subframe-mounts.html
 

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Hmmmm. That's really weird, the fact that no two people seem to be able to "duplicate" a fix. What works for some doesn't work for others. I think at this point I'm just wanting to buy some insurance against grenading my 3rd Gen diff and the research I've done points to the stock/identical diameter axles as being the most problematic/biggest culprit. I'm intrigued by what the DriveShaft shop offers - send your stock axles in to them and they upgrade with staggered diameter axles - $560 (copying what GM did with the 2009 second gen CTS-V). The other $1,600 full race axles are sure appealing but a lot of money for me
 

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2005 CTS-V
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Thanks Darkman - that Hendrix website has the exact same wording/write-up for their products as the Driveshaft Shop website. Are they the same company or do they sell each other's parts - I'm a little confused. Either way, which set-up did you go with - the axle bar upgrade (where you send in your stock axles and they "build" you a set capable of handling 1,000hp for about $560) or the full axle 1,000hp set for $1,600?
At the time I got my Hendrix axles (the 1000hp whole units) I believe they were manufactured by DSS. If I recall correctly, Hendrix claimed that their units were built to their specs and in that regard were not identical to DSS off-the-shelf units. The material used was 300M. I do not know what Hendrix currently claims that, but you could ask.

Choosing between the two options is problematic. I do not recall anyone that used the GForce Econo units reporting "great" results, but I could have missed it. Additionally, I would hesitant to get the lower cost units unless or until I came across someone who had tried them and actually eliminated wheel hop. I spent $850 + installation on 2007 oem units to upgrade my 2005 units (1.50 vs. 1.25 inch diameter) and accomplished absolutely nothing.

The 1,000 hp units are expensive, but the car is much more enjoyable when you can actually nail-it in 1st or 2nd gear without scattering your teeth all over the interior.
 

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Darkman, you remind of me of a guy named Jared Cullop who works/ed for an automotive magazine as a test driver/writer - he was a "no expense spared" kind of guy, building and selling all sorts of interesting cars. As far as I could tell, he had little awareness/interaction w/us, the CTS-V crowd. He got hold of a first gen CTS-V back in 2011 and wrote up an article about how to get rid of all the sloppy/lazy/soft Cadillac components and make our cars as competitive as any German sports car out there. He dumped like $15,000 into the car - brand new 4th gen diff, LS7 clutch swap, brand new GM driveshaft, Hendrix driveshafts, KW3 coilovers, etc. etc. Anyway, the reason I mention him is he has links to all the stuff he recommends for our cars and the full race axles from Hendrix (his link took me to the Driveshaft Shop incidentally) was one of them. So, moral of the story, here I am (not for the first time) wanting to save a few dollars when it's most likely in my best interest to do the job right the first time. Thanks for the comments/advice.
 

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I want to add that I just got my 2005 back from shop. I went with the CS mega deal kit performance mounts, grease-able bushings trailing arm and adjustable toe rod. The wheel hop was 95% eliminated. The axles would probably have totally eliminated wheel hop. I am really pleased with the set up. The car has volanti cold air and SW headers cat delete with magna flow exhaust, Hurst short throw shifter and Forgestar f14 wheels on comp2-AS tires putting 359hp and 394 torque to rear wheels.
 
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