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Just so you know after market purge valves are being sold on ebay for as little as 11 or 12 dollars. The original AC Delco runs closer to 30 to 40 dollars.
 

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2005 CTS
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Hi my friends! So, I finally got my car crunk. Changed the oil, but there is a little knock under the hood. Nothing too loud, and it slows down once the car idoils down. It sounds like one of the lifters may be stuck, or my guides are loose...
 

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2007 CTS 3.6 >131k miles
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734 Posts
That is great news! IIRC the car did not start when you bought it (?) Congrats on resurrecting it!

Regarding the ticking noise, do you know the oil change history? If not, it may be worth reducing any sludge buildup that may be causing problems. Some people prefer to just run fresh oil as a cleaner, and then change it in 100 or so miles. The rationale is that the fresh oil will dissolve at least some of the sludge so it can be drained with the oil. Others like to use a chemical flush (e.g. Motor Medic) that you add to the old oil and run 5 or 10 min before changing the oil. I don't know which is the best choice, but the chemical has never caused any problems in my cars.

Regardless, my understanding is that sludge contributes to timing chain failure in these engines (link <here>) so it would be worth reducing it as much as possible.
 

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2005 CTS
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Discussion Starter #44
Thank you!!! And I did it all on my own😁. I'm not sure of the oil change history, however; I did run a flush through the engine, and I changed the oil as well.
 

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2005 CTS
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
I also used sludge cleaner and allowed the car to idle for a few minutes. Afterwards, I changed the oil. I didn't have enough strength to loosen the oil filter, and I'm afraid to drive it to the mechanic to use the pressure wrench. Trying to avoid anymore damage bc of the knock under the hood.
 

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2007 CTS 3.6 >131k miles
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If you already used oil flush, that is about all you can do at this point. The ticking sound may improve over time as it is driven more. Just check the oil often if you drive freeways a lot (the 3.6 seems to use a lot of oil, mostly on freeways). Normal driving is less of an issue.

Oh..and change the filter! If it was installed too tight it will probably require an impact wrench to avoid breaking the filter housing. A breaker bar will also work, but is more likely to break the thing!
 

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2005 Base CTS work at Pullen solenoids Glass Factory for 36 and a half years
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268 Posts
When I first got my car and went to change the oil and filter the filter housing was on very tight also. I could not budge it with a half inch ratchet so I got out my two foot breaker bar and it finally came loose. The last oil change was done at the dealer and I don't know why they put it that tight because if I remember correctly it only takes 18 foot pounds of torque. That means tighten it by hand and just give it a good tug to tighten it up and that's all that's required if you don't have a torque wrench to do it with. Also change the rubber o-ring when you put the new filter in. Easy peasy:giggle:

Roy
 

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2005 CTS
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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks guys!! Do you think it would be harmful to drive with the noise? It's not loud and it quiets when I press the gas. I'm just scared...I don't want to cause damage to the motor if I can prevent it.
 

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2007 CTS 3.6 >131k miles
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Personally, I would drive it around but not stomp the gas or anything until I was confident that things are working okay. However, I am not there to hear it in person so it is hard to know what is going on. Could you take a short vid of the sound?
 

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2005 Base CTS work at Pullen solenoids Glass Factory for 36 and a half years
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268 Posts
Were you able to change the filter? If not it could be full of junk after using the engine oil cleaner and not allowing enough oil to flow through it so until you change it I would not drive it.

Roy
 

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2007 CTS 3.6 >131k miles
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@TA Coupe that is a good point. It is possible that the filter is restricting oil flow. The oil filter should be changed asap, given that you don't know the maintenance history.
 

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2005 CTS
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Oh...I found out today that I was sold the wrong filter. I did get it unscrewed though. Exchanging filters tomorrow, the replacing old one.
 

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2007 CTS 3.6 >131k miles
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Here is a short vid of one method to remove a stuck filter cap. This is not the same car as yours but the method should work if you have a regular filter wrench.

Also, if you use a socket like to remove the cap (like you are supposed to), the nut can sometimes break off the cap and then you need a new one (Oil filter cap, nut snapped off cap!!)

If I were doing the removal, I would try a small impact wrench first but not overdo it. If that doesn't work I would use the filter wrench method shown in the video above.
 

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2005 Base CTS work at Pullen solenoids Glass Factory for 36 and a half years
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268 Posts
She said she already got it off.

Roy
 

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2005 CTS
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Lol...Thanks guys! So I put the new filter on today. Finally drove it for a bit. I'm not sure what causes this but, when I'm sitting idled ...it runs sorta rough. Although the taping has slowed waaaaay down, I'm still a little hesitant about driving it too much. It doesn't run hot or anything...but it sounds like it may be really thirsty. That's the only way I can describe it. What do you guys suggest I try next?
 

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2007 CTS 3.6 >131k miles
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You are making great progress! Now it's just a process of elimination to find the cause of rough idle.

Lots of possible causes but IME for the CTS the most common are vacuum leaks, clogged air filter, and spark plug or ignition coil failure.

Have you checked/changed the air filter? If not I would do this first.

The spark plugs and ignition coils will usually cause an engine code so these are less likely if you don't have any codes.

Lots of places for vacuum leaks, but the PCV system is a common culprit (mine had two leak points a few years ago).
1. Check the tubes connected to the sides of the intake, along the top. With the car idling, wiggle those connectors back and forth and listen for changes in the idle. If this changes the idle, change the little o rings on the connectors; two per side, available from the dealer or online (or just replace the whole tube setup).
2. Check the tube connected to the airbox (front/center of engine...not the air filter box). One end should be connected to the port at the back of the driver side valve cover and the other end should be inserted into a rubber tube in the back of the airbox.
3. Also check that the connectors are tight on the intake tube, that the hose from intake plenum to brake booster is sealed, etc.
 

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2005 Base CTS work at Pullen solenoids Glass Factory for 36 and a half years
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268 Posts
Now that you have got it running I would rescan it codes.

Roy
 
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