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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased an '05 STS, V-8, AWD (white diamond, cashmere) that is loaded. I wanted an SRX, but this really impressed me. I have a small trailer that I use occasionally. Is there a preferred wiring harness that would be plug and play, rather than cut or splice into the trunk wiring? Thanks.
 

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2006 STS 1SG & 2007 STS 1SE
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The wiring costs more than a hitch. New wiring is run from the front fusebox. You can't just tap existing wiring.

I have a hitch and have researched this. The mounting points are not solid enough for any substantial towing. The manual specifies 100 lb. tongue weight with a maximum gross trailer weight of 1,000 lb. I always take it easy.
 

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1966 Fleetwood Brougham 2006 STS-4 1999 Deville Concours
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Carefull with the electrical, you want to look for the simple t-connector type of harness (I haven't found one for the STS). Crimping into the caddy harness will add age lines to your face! I have installed my own hitches/wiring before and EChas3 is correct power is run direct from the battery but still needs signaling from the rear harness. EChas3 what harness would you recommend?
 

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2006 STS 1SG & 2007 STS 1SE
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I didn't have wiring installed. In Wisconsin, trailer lights are not required as long as the taillights are visible.

I am not aware of any Cadillac dealer offering hitch & wiring. U-Haul gets a lot of recomendations. Here in the Milwaukee area, Bergers Car Care on 76th is well known as the best place to buy a hitch. They installed a Curt hitch on my STS-4. I forget the brand but they also did my wife's 1998 STS and my '93 Roadmaster.
 

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Cadillac Owners Troll
2019 CT6 Sport 3.0TT,2015 Luxury ATS , 2016 ELR, and Volt
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Manufacturers tow ratings on cars are in many cases not a verified rating, although if you stay within that rating, your warranty will be honored. In the case of the STS, the standard class 1 hitch is safely rated for 2000# and 200 lbs tongue weight. The attachment is certified for several times that rating. For occasional towing, 2000# is no problem. There is no plug and play wiring, but a powered module for the STS is p/n 13493 at U-haul for 39.95. We have plenty of STS's and CTS's running around with this equipment (the hitch and wiring is the same for both).
 

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2006 STS 1SG & 2007 STS 1SE
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The STS owners manual clearly states to not tow more than 1,000 lbs with 15% of that for tongue weight.

"But even that may be too heavy. The STS-V is not rated or designed to tow any trailer." Page 4-41.
 

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Cadillac Owners Troll
2019 CT6 Sport 3.0TT,2015 Luxury ATS , 2016 ELR, and Volt
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I know all of that and I've been on both sides of the equation. I stand by what I said. I totally know what is behind the issues since i was director of engineering for GM and am now director for U-Haul. I didn't want to use that kind of flaming, but I do know all of the issues at hand and hopefully can dispell a lot of anecdotal BS.
 

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I do agree that the manual is very conservative. But if someone regularly exceeds them and has trouble, a dealer can refuse to honor a warranty. Personally, I'm not worried by those limits, I do little towing and am very gentle when I do. Not everyone cares for equipment like I do.
 

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2005 STS N* 1SF
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149 Posts
Manufacturers tow ratings on cars are in many cases not a verified rating, although if you stay within that rating, your warranty will be honored. In the case of the STS, the standard class 1 hitch is safely rated for 2000# and 200 lbs tongue weight. The attachment is certified for several times that rating. For occasional towing, 2000# is no problem. There is no plug and play wiring, but a powered module for the STS is p/n 13493 at U-haul for 39.95. We have plenty of STS's and CTS's running around with this equipment (the hitch and wiring is the same for both).
A quick question. I went to U-Haul's website this afternoon, and entering my car info it came back with P/N 13486 for wiring. I don't doubt the accuracy of your recommendation of P/N 13493, but are you aware of this disparity?

Glenn
 

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2008 sts, 1995 Brougham V4P
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Towing 2000lbs with this Version of the STS is one of the more dangerous ideas I've seen here. I'm sure some ******* will say sure we can make a Class 2 or even a class 3 hitch fit. This car was never designed for this. It is a unibody design and does not have a frame to carry the stain of towing. The hitch attachment points on the body are just stamped sheet metal. Being that you require 10 - 15% of the load to be the tongue weight anything more than the recommended 1000lb will put an excessive amount of stress on the frame attachment points. Warranty coverage is the least of the worries
 

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2005 STS N* 1SF
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Back to the top hoping for an answer to my question of next2pool regarding U-Haul wiring recommendation. TIA.

Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I posted the original question regarding the wiring for our STS. I am starting to think that I totally screwed up and should have bought the the SRX. I could not find the one I wanted and the STS was loaded (1SG, 1SZ, V-8, AWD, etc.). I like the car, but I was used to a Chrysler Pacifica and the towing was effortless. I own a 14' Boston Whaler and a Triton 10' aluminum trailer. Am I going to tax the STS with the towing? I certainly will stay within the class 1 hitch recommendations. I sincerely appreciate your input. Thanks.
 

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2005 STS N* 1SF
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149 Posts
tbiddle,
I currently tow my 13 ft Whaler behind a 98 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon, with a Class1 hitch, mounted the same way the STS requires, with backing plates, bolted through the spare tire-well floor. This setup has generated no problems over the last 4 years, and I envision no problem dragging "Puddle Jumper" behind my V-8 STS. Even with less power and weight I hardly feel the boat when towing her behind the Subie. I can't imagine your 10 ft aluminum trailer or your slightly heavier Whaler would present any problem. I admit to some frustration that Mister next2pool, the "expert" on U-Haul's hitch wiring hasn't been back to answer my simple question. I will be installing the hitch on the STS this Spring.

Glenn
 

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2006 STS 1SG & 2007 STS 1SE
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I good trailer shop will fix you up just fine. The wiring will cost as much as the hitch because it's a mistake to simply tap the existing light circuits. The application takes a smart adapter and the best power source is under the hood. A quality installer will run dedicated power for the trailer.

Find someone to do it right and you'll be fine as long as its a light trailer.
 

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I was considering this set-up http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Wiring/Cadillac/STS/2005/119176KIT.html?vehicleid=20058048 before being steered to the much cheaper U-Haul alternative; here http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies...cle-wiring/Trailer-Light-Power-Module?id=4074, but the U-Haul site specifies an even cheaper alternative. I'm perfectly aware of the old addage, "You get what you pay for" and always hesitate to take the cheapest alternative.

It appears the first choice uses a "home-run" straight to the battery.

Glenn
 

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The old adage "You get what you pay for." is really only true in a fantasy world with no rip-off-artists.

The reality is that quality always takes effort. High quality is expensive. I think the truth reads: "You always have to pay for what you get!"
 
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