Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
2010 CTS-V
Joined
·
442 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

The Memphis dealer has my 2004 V in to repair/replace the power steering pump. It's whining and grabbing at low speeds. But the car has 160k miles on it, and I wondered if the serpentine belt (which has never been replaced) could be the problem.

They want $180 for the pump and $750 for labor, or about $930 plus tax to do the change out.

I called AutoZone and was told they don't have the pump, it's OEM only.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jack
 

·
Registered
04 CTS-V with a little hp persuasion device
Joined
·
3,824 Posts
Buy the pump from the dealer and install it yourself. $750 to change a pump is retarded. I doubt the belt is the problem if the power steering is the only thing you are having a problem with.
 

·
Registered
2010 CTS-V
Joined
·
442 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Darkman.

Do you have the instructions for replacing the serpentine belt as well?

Jack
 

·
Registered
'04 CTS-V, '07 SRT8 Jeep, '86 Fiero
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
Remember to take the fluid out first before changing it. Pretty basic advice, but that little slip up could cost you an alternator as well... :/
 

·
Registered
2005 CTS-V
Joined
·
49 Posts
The High pressure line that hooks up at the bottom of the pump. I cant seem to take it off. Any tips on taking the line off?

My serpintine drive belt broke and wrapped around the shaft, between the pump and pulley, melting the front seal.

Nevermind, I found the answer after I posted this.....thanks for the help guys
 

·
Registered
2005 CTS-V
Joined
·
49 Posts

·
Premium Member
2005 CTS-V
Joined
·
8,363 Posts
Below is the procedure I use for flushing the system, which differs from the Service Manual procedure. I have found that this system is actually self-bleeding" in that once the sytem is basically full of fluid any air in the system will eventually work its way to the top by simply running the engine. So you can bleed the system by running the engine and periodically refilling the top. This only takes a few minutes. Then check after first road test.

1. Jack up the car.
2. Remove the apron pins and apron underneath the front bumper/radiator.
3. Remove the bolts holding the PS cooler and let the cooler drop.
4. With a catch pan in place - remove one of the cooler hoses and drain.
5. Reattach the hose.
6. Top off the reservoir with fluid and run the engine 2-3 minutes making sure the reservoir is full.
7. Repeat Steps 4-6 until you are draining clear fluid. (The OEM fluid is crystal clear-some other brands may be red like ATF).
8. Reassemble everything.
9. Recheck the reservoir periodically in case you had an air bubble.
 

·
Registered
1992 Dodge Dakota DD, 2005 CTS-V Black on Black
Joined
·
573 Posts
Ive replaced mine in two hours (Then again I am a mechanic for a living) Deffinatly a job towards the easier side. Darkmans flat rate time of 3.2 sounds about right if you have basic knowledge. Just bleed it by filling the reservior then start the car and turn side to side. Keep an eye on fluid level and refill when needed. Once the air is out of the system the level will not go down anymore and the pump wont sound like it did when you started the car. It sound be nice and quite.
 

·
Registered
2006 CTS-V
Joined
·
168 Posts
Hello everyone, I haven't been on here in a while because my V has been running perfectly... however all good things have to come to an end.

The power steering pump is leaking. I bought the new hose and... wow, this is quite a pain to change out!

Right now I am looking for a power steering pump pulley puller that fits on my car. The ones at the local auto parts store are too long and are going to require me to remove the radiator.

Is this true? Do I have to pull the radiator?? What pulley puller are you guys using to pull the power steering pulley?
 

·
Registered
'04 CTS-V, '07 SRT8 Jeep, '86 Fiero
Joined
·
1,646 Posts
Pull it out first?
 

·
Registered
2004 CTS-V
Joined
·
71 Posts
You may be able to get away with just pulling the fans but I had my rad out when I was fixing the high pressure line (had to pull off the pulley). I was changing my radiator at the same time luckily.
 

·
Premium Member
2005 CTS-V
Joined
·
8,363 Posts
If you are going to do much do-it-yourself work on a CTS-V, pulling the radiator should become an almost automatic procedure. After a few times you can do it in 10 minutes or less. I wish I had back all the time I wasted before I just accepted that fact. I pull the radiator and cooling fans as a single unit.
 

·
Registered
05 Stealth Gray V
Joined
·
991 Posts
The fans are bolted to the radiator. Just unbolt the radiator and remove the hoses, it should all pull out together.
 

·
Registered
07 CTS-V
Joined
·
351 Posts
This text from my harmonic balancer replacement job outlines the procedure for radiator removal.....

Sure....take the plastic cover off of the top of the radiator/grill. They are just push/pull pins. Drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the bottom of the radiator. Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator and the engine. Gives you a little more room with it removed completely. Under the plastic cover there are 4 bolts which hold the brackets that hold the radiator in place. Remove all 4 bolts. This will allow you to move the radiator rearward enough to remove the 4 bolts that hold the a/c condenser onto the radiator. The condenser does not have to be removed; just the radiator. The fans can stay attached to the radiator as you remove it. However, you do need to disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on either side of the fans. Carefully move the condenser away from the radiator as you lift the radiator out of the car. Using a socket and ratchet apply clockwise pressure to the serpentine belt tensioner to release tension on the belt enough to remove it. Make sure the e-brake is on and put the car in 4th gear. Maybe even chock it. Mine was wanting to move around a fair amount. Using a breaker bar and socket remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) bolt. Using a 3 arm puller carefully remove the balancer. Clean the crank with some emery cloth, etc. You may find a little oil around the crankshaft area. Clean the area well. Place the new balancer on the crank. Using a balancer installer press the new balancer onto the crank. Remove the balancer installer. Using the OLD crank pulley bolt tighten to 240 ft lbs. Remove the old bolt. Install the new bolt. Torque to 37 ft lbs. Mark the balancer and the bolt. Now tighten until the bolt rotates 140 degrees. Make sure at this point that you replace your a/c belt if you desire. Carefully install the radiator. Attach the condenser to the radiator. Install the brackets that hold the radiator in at the top. Connect the 2 fan electrical connectors. Install a new serpentine belt if desired. Install the plastic cover over the radiator/grill. Reattach the lower radiator hose. Install the upper radiator hose. Refill the coolant recovery tank. It will empty itself as the system fills up and the air slowly escapes. While you do this recheck everything you can see or touch that was removed. Make sure no tools, etc. are left anywhere. Refill the coolant tank again. Ok, time to start it. Make sure the belt is riding on all pulleys correctly. Watch the coolant tank to keep it full. Add accordingly. Make sure the wires for the fans do not touch the fan blades themselves. One of mine did, causing a weird noise I couldn't figure out until i looked closer. Make sure there are no leaks under the car. I would recheck coolant level after a few miles of driving. I would also take a general look around the area where the work was done just to be sure all is looking well. I plan on checking the torque on the crank bolt after about 100 miles just to be safe. This really is an easy job. Just make sure you have a NEW bolt, coolant, belts, puller, installer.....and cold beverage of your choice.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top