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2013 CTS Premium, 2009 3.6 DI AWD Performance Package, 2003 Seville STS
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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me if replacing the original factory radio, without NAV, to put in an aftermarket radio makes any other options stop working? I ask because when I replaced my Avalon's factory stereo I lost the built in NAV and other functions that were separate from the stereo.
 

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Budabear said:
Can anyone tell me if replacing the original factory radio, without NAV, to put in an aftermarket radio makes any other options stop working? I ask because when I replaced my Avalon's factory stereo I lost the built in NAV and other functions that were separate from the stereo.
Wheel controls disc changer chimes and Onstar all buhbyes. Need aftermarket adapters to get wheel controls Onstar and chimes back. Disc changer cannot be used with aftermarket deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! What are the chimes? The changer isn't a problem because I use my ipod now. Although I don't know much about Onstar I think I'm covered for most of what that will do. I will have to research Onstar. I would like to keep the wheel controls so I will look for the adapters when the time comes.
 

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Budabear said:
Thanks! What are the chimes? The changer isn't a problem because I use my ipod now. Although I don't know much about Onstar I think I'm covered for most of what that will do. I will have to research Onstar. I would like to keep the wheel controls so I will look for the adapters when the time comes.
Open door leave key in ignition that ding noise. That's a chime. It also does it for any warning message that appears on the drivers information center display.
 

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Losing features is minor, without the proper integration module, you'll have all kinds of electrical issues. The original HU is part of he anti theft system and serial data bus.

You NEED a Metra GMOS-06. Steering wheel controls require a separate module, if the aftermarket HU supports it.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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Thanks! What are the chimes? The changer isn't a problem because I use my ipod now. Although I don't know much about Onstar I think I'm covered for most of what that will do. I will have to research Onstar. I would like to keep the wheel controls so I will look for the adapters when the time comes.
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I will have to research Onstar.
OnStar is the built-in cell phone/communications - and GPS connection -

your 03 model had analog OnStar -
so - if you didn't have it updated to digital -
it doesn't work - so - don't worry about it -

are you planning on just changing the head unit -
or the entire system?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Open door leave key in ignition that ding noise. That's a chime. It also does it for any warning message that appears on the drivers information center display.
Thanks! I wouldn't want to loose the chimes. LOL It's been over 15 years since my last Sevile, don't remember if the others had it.

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Thanks, I will look for this unit. I was looking at a unit from crutchfield but it is a different unit.

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===========================
I will have to research Onstar.
OnStar is the built-in cell phone/communications - and GPS connection -

your 03 model had analog OnStar -
so - if you didn't have it updated to digital -
it doesn't work - so - don't worry about it -

are you planning on just changing the head unit -
or the entire system?
My intensions would be to replace the entire system. As far as I know you can't mix the Bose components with other brands. I'd be getting a double din NAV unit with usb bluetooth. I also have my own amp and speakers. I hope to be able to change the 12" Bose sub with an aftermarket. I've even been toying with the idea of trying to get 6x9's in the back deck from the trunk without cutting out holes on the inside of the back deck so they would not be seen.

I already have a Kenwood DNX8120 NAV radio but would prefer to get a newer model. I'd be using Polk and JL Audio speakers in the doors and if I can get 6x9's in the back deck then they would also be Polks. If I cannot utilize theexisting subwoofer space that's already there then I'd use my 10" amplified Bazooka.

Lastly I'd be using my Soundstream Reference 4.920 four channel amp.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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Thanks! I wouldn't want to loose the chimes. LOL It's been over 15 years since my last Sevile, don't remember if the others had it.

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Thanks, I will look for this unit. I was looking at a unit from crutchfield but it is a different unit.

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My intensions would be to replace the entire system. As far as I know you can't mix the Bose components with other brands. I'd be getting a double din NAV unit with usb bluetooth. I also have my own amp and speakers. I hope to be able to change the 12" Bose sub with an aftermarket. I've even been toying with the idea of trying to get 6x9's in the back deck from the trunk without cutting out holes on the inside of the back deck so they would not be seen.

I already have a Kenwood DNX8120 NAV radio but would prefer to get a newer model. I'd be using Polk and JL Audio speakers in the doors and if I can get 6x9's in the back deck then they would also be Polks. If I cannot utilize theexisting subwoofer space that's already there then I'd use my 10" amplified Bazooka.

Lastly I'd be using my Soundstream Reference 4.920 four channel amp.
=======================
My intensions would be to replace the entire system
that's a good thing -
because there isn't one single thing that will be compatible -
including the speaker wires -

I hope to be able to change the 12" Bose sub with an aftermarket.
ya - that's gonna be a problem -
the 12" BOSE sub is actually 10" -
and VERY - very - thin -
no way to fit a 12" in it's place -

regarding your other "wants" -
you got some homework to do -
 

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Discussion Starter #9
=======================
My intensions would be to replace the entire system
that's a good thing -
because there isn't one single thing that will be compatible -
including the speaker wires -

I hope to be able to change the 12" Bose sub with an aftermarket.
ya - that's gonna be a problem -
the 12" BOSE sub is actually 10" -
and VERY - very - thin -
no way to fit a 12" in it's place -

regarding your other "wants" -
you got some homework to do -
All info that I had seen sad it was a 12" but 10", if I can find one to fit, can also work. Again, if not my Bazooka had done just fine for me up to now. As for homework, that is pretty vague, none required for the doors. I've already been told that I need the Metra GMOS-06 adapter to hook up with the HU. The 6x9's, either that can be done or it can't be and the amp hookup should be no different then any other car.
 

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No, if you plan to use aftermarket amps (speaker amps, not sub), you'll basically be wiring the entire system from scratch.
 

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If these are the correct schematics, I don't think you'd have to rewire the entire car to get the factory system to 'play nice' with the addition of aftermarket equipment. One thing tends to lead to another, but it doesn't seem terrible to me if these are right. You could use the Metra GMOS-06 or PAC OS2-GM32 to retain the factory headunit features as mentioned, install headunit of your choice, module needed to retain factory steering wheel controls, and install an aftermarket subwoofer/amp as you normally would any car and wire it to the outs on the aftermarket HU. While you're running your RCAs and turn-on lead for the sub amp, run two pairs of speaker wires to the factory amp location in the rear. Wire these leads to the cooresponding 'output' wires to each door speaker in the 2nd and 3rd diagram. To retain the chime, perhaps cut the chime input wires from where they are on the factory amp and tap these into the front two speaker leads? Not sure what type of load these chime leads carry, just a thought. The stupid chime leads and how they have them wired really messes up the ease of bypassing the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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If these are the correct schematics, I don't think you'd have to rewire the entire car to get the factory system to 'play nice' with the addition of aftermarket equipment. One thing tends to lead to another, but it doesn't seem terrible to me if these are right. You could use the Metra GMOS-06 or PAC OS2-GM32 to retain the factory headunit features as mentioned, install headunit of your choice, module needed to retain factory steering wheel controls, and install an aftermarket subwoofer/amp as you normally would any car and wire it to the outs on the aftermarket HU. While you're running your RCAs and turn-on lead for the sub amp, run two pairs of speaker wires to the factory amp location in the rear. Wire these leads to the cooresponding 'output' wires to each door speaker in the 2nd and 3rd diagram. To retain the chime, perhaps cut the chime input wires from where they are on the factory amp and tap these into the front two speaker leads? Not sure what type of load these chime leads carry, just a thought. The stupid chime leads and how they have them wired really messes up the ease of bypassing the amp.
Thanks Photochop, most excellent info. I see light at the end of the rainbow. LOL
 

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Its all theory based going by the diagram, which may not be correct. I'm in the process of planning the system for my 2003 STS, I'm an audio guy and this factory stuff has got to be updated. I'm doing the HU swap this weekend, just putting in a simple BT/USB radio for now - eventually a double DIN nav unit. Going to install a sub/amp from my last car and be happy for a bit while I save my pennies for that nav unit and some components/door speakers. While I'm at it I'll run some speaker leads and try the amp bypass when I swap the speakers. Really curious on the chime signal though, I'd imagine you could just literally tie it into the bypassed front two channels.

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Budabear if you decide to upgrade headunits, I may be interested in your Kenwood DNX8120 if the timing/price is right!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its all theory based going by the diagram, which may not be correct. I'm in the process of planning the system for my 2003 STS, I'm an audio guy and this factory stuff has got to be updated. I'm doing the HU swap this weekend, just putting in a simple BT/USB radio for now - eventually a double DIN nav unit. Going to install a sub/amp from my last car and be happy for a bit while I save my pennies for that nav unit and some components/door speakers. While I'm at it I'll run some speaker leads and try the amp bypass when I swap the speakers. Really curious on the chime signal though, I'd imagine you could just literally tie it into the bypassed front two channels.

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Budabear if you decide to upgrade headunits, I may be interested in your Kenwood DNX8120 if the timing/price is right!
Your theories sound good to me. LOL So we are both basically doing the same thing. I won't be doing my stuff too soon so chances are you might be doing some installs before I have anything done to mine. You can always message me about my Kenwood and I will send you a contact number. I have it on CL:

http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/ele/4952496027.html

Keep us updated on your install, I'd like to hear how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Found these videos on Youtube.


 

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I finished my single DIN HU install last night. Overall it went pretty smooth, wiring was pretty straight forward. I used the PAC OS2-GM32 harness that retains factory RAP features and has a chime module. I also used the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 to retain steering wheel controls. The install kit (bezel/brackets) used was a Metra kit sold by Crutchfield. Also picked up an antenna adapter to retain AM/FM radio. I've done quite a few HU installs so it was pretty straight forward, with the only curve ball being having to tap into the stock harness for the ASWC-1. Programming it was a breeze though, on first startup all you do is hold down the volume up button on the steering wheel so it will pair with that signal. From there it 'sees' the volume down and track/select buttons. So no real programming needed from the end user. Since the HU was single DIN, the metra kit puts a small cubby under the radio. Not a big deal to me, doesn't really look true factory but it's fine til I can afford a screen/NAV unit of somesort. There isn't much room behind the unit though, make sure you buy a HU that is shallow enough to clear. I had to mount mine in the bezel twice, the first try it was about 1/4" too deep - and I even snapped off a plastic bracket behind the radio. You can't clearance anything behind the dash really, and after 3 tries I realized I needed to mount (tape) all of the wiring modules up above the HU kinda wedged at the top of the hole where the bezel covers under the vents. Any other location didn't allow ample room for the wires to be run. I also went ahead and ran the wires for the bluetooth mic, subwoofer amp, and spliced in a pair of speaker wires to the front speaker outputs from the HU for when I install components in the front doors.
About the factory Bose speakers. They actually are good drivers, and have much more dynamic range than the factory headunit allows them to convey. With a little EQ at different frequencies with an EQ that has frequency and 'Q' control, they can actually sound pretty darn good. Sadly in my system I had the 'premium' Bose, not allowing fade from front to rear speakers. This doesn't really bother me though, the soundstage is obviously in front of you with the dash mounted speakers. I honestly think I'll just keep them installed until they blow. Since you're supplying a boosted lineout signal thru the OS2-GM32 module, the system can play alot louder alot easier. I adjusted my source input levels on the HU to better accommodate this.
All in all I'm very satisfied so far, yes the chime sound is a little different, honestly sounds a little 'sick' and not as 'fancy' sounding (have to hear it) but that really doesn't bother me. Maybe it would the purists or guys that have owned their car for over a few years. I've only had mine a couple months so it didn't bother me at all. I'll have my single 10" sub wired in by this weekend (interested to see how it sounds compared to coming from a small Mitsubishi Lancer) and I'll update the thread with final conclusion. I'll also post some pics.
If you're having thoughts about bringing your 10+ year old Cadillac up to current sound trends (variable EQ, Bluetooth/USB connectivity) I HIGHLY recommend swapping out the headunit with the parts listed above. Installation was time consuming (primarily wiring, and the limited install depth), but well worth the time and outcome.
 

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That is such fantastic news. I really can't wait to get mine done but sadly I found out tonight it will take much longer then I expected. I have to pay to have my stuff put in and in this car the price is going to be between $250 and $300. Damn, any other car is usually about $125 to get everything in there. When I'm ready I may have to use my DNX8120 because I do want NAV. I also have a KDC-X998 which I purchased recently for my 90 Mark VII which I sold recently. I used that one for all of 2 months and it has everything but NAV. LOL I wanted to get another NAV unit later then the 8120 to get some better features but I don't think that is happening. WHen you get a chance post a picture of your new HU in the car. Will be cool to see it. Thanks for posting the specific adapters that are necessary, I will need that. I've been driving my car for a total of 3 days now and arrived back in NY last night from picking it up in MI. The Bose system in here is awful but it sounded much better in my 99 STS. Performance was also better in that one. LOL I guess I'd rather pay for the premium gas rather then have a de-tuned Northstar.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I still have not replace my HU but I did finally decide to make a few changes. I had planned to have all the door speakers changed and an iSimple iPod interface connected. According to Crutchfield the doors use 6.5" speakers. I purchased 2 new pairs of speakers and upon taking the Bose door speakers out we found that the internal Bose speakers are 8" Bose woofers. We made adapters to use my 6.5" JL Audio's and installed the new speakers in the front doors. It turns out that no matter what you put in there they will work as woofers like the original speakers. What a waste of time.

We installed an iSimple ISGM73 iPod interface yesterday. This unit is suppose to connect through my CD Changer harness and allow my changer controls to control the iPod. This turned out to be another waste of time. After working on this for hours we can't get it to work as a source unit to replace the changer. We did finally get the interface working but it only works when my Sirius XM is playing. Call the company 3 times and the best they could come up with is to install a relay and a toggle switch to switch the Sirius on and off when I want to play the iPod. So, after spending $100 for this unit the best I can hope for, so far, is for this unit to work the same as my $10 cassette adapter.

I'm thinking that my Bose system will be staying in my car. I don't want to spend the money to rewire the entire car to replace all the wiring in the car to use my amps, HU, speakers and sub.
 
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