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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have install pics and the bolt size of the one screw holding the crankshaft position sensor? Any help would be appreciated, but specific instruction preferred.

Thanks,
DJ
 

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CTS 03
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I replaced mine 2 months ago, someone said it's a 6.5mm socket, I asked the parts dept, he looked up, you'll need a number E8 Torx Socket. ( not a torx bit).

I had to buy the whole set and I'm glad I did because I needed them for other repairs on this car. I enclosed a pic, sorry it's blurry.

 

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here's some instruction posted on here awhile back.

Listen, this is a very simple fix for the do it yourself guys, first buy the new sensor, then disconnect the old from the bottom of the car,
it right behind the oil filter, pull the sensor from the engine block and let it hang, go to the top of the engine and find the other end
of the connector, its right at the firewall on back, unplug the connector and tie a piece of hefty string to it and tie the other end of the
string to the end of the new crank sensor, you'll want to tie it to the end that will go into the block. Go back under the bottom of the car and
gently pull the old crank sensor out and then the string should come out along with the new sensor with the correct routing presto. then bolt
the new sensor into the block go back up top plug in the connector and there is one zip tie near the bottom that youll need to replace.
Job complete and your laughing all the way to the bank

I bought and replaced the crank position sensor. I found a dealer that sold me one for $45.
This is not a job for those with arthritis or large hands! The sensor itself is located just over the oil filter on the left rear side of the engine.
It is held with one bolt - one 6.5mm bolt. Once I found a socket of that size, I realized that
my short extension was too short, and my long extension was too long. Everything has to be just the right length in order to get the handle of
your ratchet wrench between the oil filter and the exhaust system.

Getting the sensor out is only part of the battle. The wire that connects it to the harness snakes behind the engine in what is just a mess of pipes
and wires.
To get the wire out, you have to remove the air intake panels and the windshield wiper motor. Removing all this stuff gives you the ability to view
most of the wire's path - with a mirror. The connector itself is fairly accessible, so I tied some nylon string around it and pulled on the sensor.
With much difficulty, I got the wire out and used the nylon string to pull the new sensor's wire back through the mess.
 

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Once you get the sensor out, follow the wire, you have to cut some of the wire ties. They say tie a string to it and pull the new connector up with the string. I found it easier to ruote the wire with my hand. I don't think you need to follow the exact route with the new wire, just keep it away from the exhause pipe. The connection is on the fire wall in the back of the engine. I was able to lay on the engine and reach it with both hands. My wife thought I was screwing the engine when she saw me laying on it :~)

Here are some old threads: NOTE I didn't have to remove the firewall or wiper motor:

.
Listen, this is a very simple fix for the do it yourself guys, first buy the new sensor, then disconnect the old from the bottom of the car,
it right behind the oil filter, pull the sensor from the engine block and let it hang, go to the top of the engine and find the other end
of the connector, its right at the firewall on back, unplug the connector and tie a piece of hefty string to it and tie the other end of the
string to the end of the new crank sensor, you'll want to tie it to the end that will go into the block. Go back under the bottom of the car and
gently pull the old crank sensor out and then the string should come out along with the new sensor with the correct routing presto. then bolt
the new sensor into the block go back up top plug in the connector and there is one zip tie near the bottom that youll need to replace.
Job complete and your laughing all the way to the bank

2.
I bought and replaced the crank position sensor. I found a dealer that sold me one for $45.
This is not a job for those with arthritis or large hands! The sensor itself is located just over the oil filter on the left rear side of the engine.
It is held with one bolt - one 6.5mm bolt. Once I found a socket of that size, I realized that
my short extension was too short, and my long extension was too long. Everything has to be just the right length in order to get the handle of
your ratchet wrench between the oil filter and the exhaust system.

Getting the sensor out is only part of the battle. The wire that connects it to the harness snakes behind the engine in what is just a mess of pipes
and wires.
To get the wire out, you have to remove the air intake panels and the windshield wiper motor. Removing all this stuff gives you the ability to view
most of the wire's path - with a mirror. The connector itself is fairly accessible, so I tied some nylon string around it and pulled on the sensor.
With much difficulty, I got the wire out and used the nylon string to pull the new sensor's wire back through the mess.

I hope this solves the problem, although the previous post that mentions a temperature sensor makes me think that I should replace that too.
After all the car DID start 95% of the time, and when it didn't, letting it cool completely down always allowed it to start. I guess that is next
 

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I don't know if anyone is following this thread anymore, but I have to say thank you!! Fixed my problem for only $45! You saved me a couple hundred dollars!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
 
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how did you know that the crankshaft position sensor was bad? my 2003 cts stopped running while driving will not start at all.
 
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